bad ICP?
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bad ICP?
I have a 2002 E350 van with the 7.3 in it. Well i had a hard starting issue so i pulled the icp sensor plug and found oil. so i ordered a new icp off ebay. now i put it in got a new battery and the van fires up right away and shuts off just as fast as it started! I thought that was kinda funny. So i plugged my edge into it and got a code P1210. it said something along the lines of high voltage engine off. ok so i unplugged the sensor and tried to start it of course that threw another code but the same exact thing happens with the icp plugged in or not? that confused me. Also it puffs white smoke when it starts then shuts off. unburnt diesel? the HPOP pressure goes straight to 2700 and i know thats not right. its like it wants to run wide open right off the bat but obviously it kills itself. any ideas here? maybe i got a bad sensor? doesn't explain why it still shuts off with the sensor unplugged. i also got a p0340 code for the CPS. but that code only went off one time now from attempting to start it. i cleared it and it hasn't came back yet. Would a bad CPS cause issues like that? i cleaned the ICP connection very good and still the same thing. any ideas guys? no rush this van isn't my daily driver. thanks in advance!
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Sandia Park, NM
I would think bad CPS would make you crank and crank with no start. It sounds to me like an IPR issue. It's kind of scary that this came up after you put a flea-bay ICP on there. I never buy sensors from anywhere other that the Ford house. E-Bay prices are tempting, but you don't know where the parts came from. So....... you might try verifying the tin nut on the back of the IPR and possibly cleaning it. I ruined mine when I tried to clean so I ended up having to buy a new one anyway.
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The ipr is reading 14.5% KOEO. i feel the same way about ebay crap. after i got the part i remember why i never buy car parts off ebay.... i wasn't thinking. but when i start it the IPR shoots up as well pretty high... and at 235k miles im sure the IPR hasn't been cleaned.. ill look at it in a second here. im tempted to throw my old ICP back in...i had this van running before but i let it sit for a few days and now it wont run! CPS is only $25 at the dealer so i might as well replace that. i agree with you i find it very funny that it is acting up with an ebay part....
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Sandia Park, NM
If the new CPS doesn't change things make sure you hold on to the old one. Keep it in the glove box with a 10mm wrench because it WILL go out at the worst possible time. I suspect your old ICP will not change anything since plugging/unplugging the new one doesn't do anything. Can you look at ICP voltage with your edge? It'd be interesting to see what that is saying while plugged in/unplugged. One of the troubleshooting gurus will chime in here soon I'm sure.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Montana
Yahoo, another VAN guy
as the IPR look is a good Idea, but not sure that poster realized we have to pull pretty much everything above the HPOP to see it, let alone access it. its even hard to see the IPR from inside the van with flashlight and all. Van work is like pulling the turbo on a truck to work on anything on the van. its a pita for sure.
I was wondering if you could put the bad ICP back in for the heck of it to see if it starts and stays started this time. I understand its bad, but the van worked before right? just a thought.
maybe check the oil level in the HPOP?
while the dog house if off and you pull the turbo heat shield, you should be able to look for any leaks around the HPOP and valley the best you can. (and fuel leaks)
just my side line ideas, good luck
as the IPR look is a good Idea, but not sure that poster realized we have to pull pretty much everything above the HPOP to see it, let alone access it. its even hard to see the IPR from inside the van with flashlight and all. Van work is like pulling the turbo on a truck to work on anything on the van. its a pita for sure.
I was wondering if you could put the bad ICP back in for the heck of it to see if it starts and stays started this time. I understand its bad, but the van worked before right? just a thought.
maybe check the oil level in the HPOP?
while the dog house if off and you pull the turbo heat shield, you should be able to look for any leaks around the HPOP and valley the best you can. (and fuel leaks)
just my side line ideas, good luck
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i always keep a CPS handy! thanks though im about to run down and get a new one now. thats my video check it out let me know what you think and no i cant check voltage threw the edge. someone on another forum mentioned ohms testing the connection?
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ok guys i found a big problem!!!! after reaching behind the fuel bowl and finding nothing then i looked at my truck to make sure the IPR is in the same location that i was reaching for. i decided to stick my phone behind the fuel bowl and start taking pictures! well. i saw some washers sitting in the Valley pan of the engine if thats what you want to call it. then noticed a stud sticking out of the fuel owl where the IPR goes. the end of it is threaded for the nut to go on. so.... i have somewhat of an IPR there but not really.... its half gone. i have a picture i can post if you guys need or want to see it. can i rebuild this thing or am i better off just replacing the whole thing? looks origonal and has 235k miles on it. probably best to replace it. and this time with motorcraft parts. because that's going to be a pain in the @#$ to fix!
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Montana
ok guys i found a big problem!!!! after reaching behind the fuel bowl and finding nothing then i looked at my truck to make sure the IPR is in the same location that i was reaching for. i decided to stick my phone behind the fuel bowl and start taking pictures! well. i saw some washers sitting in the Valley pan of the engine if thats what you want to call it. then noticed a stud sticking out of the fuel owl where the IPR goes. the end of it is threaded for the nut to go on. so.... i have somewhat of an IPR there but not really.... its half gone. i have a picture i can post if you guys need or want to see it. can i rebuild this thing or am i better off just replacing the whole thing? looks origonal and has 235k miles on it. probably best to replace it. and this time with motorcraft parts. because that's going to be a pain in the @#$ to fix!
wow you did injector cups. which means you did something I am afraid to attempt with lack of room and a beer fund to last as long as it would take me.
I can post a few pics, but I just installed a T500 HPOP which is a rebuild that is enhanced. also re-built the fuel bowl etc. since it all had to come out anyway. and if you saw what I started with you would probably do the same.
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From: Montana
one more of the valley
what sucks its hard to clean. so mine is still dirty for my standards, but after all the work I did between snow storms and cold weather. i was DONE. wanted it back together.
what sucks its hard to clean. so mine is still dirty for my standards, but after all the work I did between snow storms and cold weather. i was DONE. wanted it back together.
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just a heads up if you ever have to pull the injectors the second injector back on the passenger side is the worst. undo the electronic piece on top then you can take the injector out. i got the IPR out and it looks just as bad as yours. ( whats left ) should i rebuild this thing or replace it? what did you do to your IPR? thanks