4x4 Front hub question?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 258
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From: Arkansas
It is actually supposed to be tightened to a specific torque spec as you rotate the hub, and then backed off a certain Portion of a turn. I don't have access to the spec's at the moment, but can get them tomorrow.
I think the over-torque causes everything to line up and/or seat properly, and then backing off gets you to a known state. I know that many times when I've put the hubs back together the point I thought they should have been adjusted to was too loose after going through the procedure.
I think the over-torque causes everything to line up and/or seat properly, and then backing off gets you to a known state. I know that many times when I've put the hubs back together the point I thought they should have been adjusted to was too loose after going through the procedure.
Well maybe I should get out my chiltons manual and actually follow the directions
I'll look at it and correct anything i did wrong. The passenger side is still running hot, so I am going to have to get new bearings. I don't understand why its still running hot though, the bearings and races and everything looked perfect.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Are you sure it isn't the brakes dragging and the heat from that making the hub hot? I've had a hard time getting one of my hubs to roll as easily as the other because that brake drags just a bit - with brand new pads and caliper. And, the dragging makes that hub warmer than the other after several miles.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 258
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From: Arkansas
Are you sure it isn't the brakes dragging and the heat from that making the hub hot? I've had a hard time getting one of my hubs to roll as easily as the other because that brake drags just a bit - with brand new pads and caliper. And, the dragging makes that hub warmer than the other after several miles.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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looks good. just a couple points that caught my attention
1) the pics suggest that you may have re-used the old seal that blocks the inner bearing into place. occasionally you get lucky and the seal comes out in re-useable condition, but as a general rule that seal should be replaced any time its removed. this goes for any seal.
2) the third-to-last picture has the appearance that the snap ring isn't fully seated into the shaft, but is riding on the outside of the spline. its often necessary to pull the shaft outward to get the snap ring to drop in. maybe its just in the pic and you did it right, but it caught my eye
other than that, everything looks good. i once made the special socket required by cutting up a large 3/4 drive socket i had on hand, but the one you bought looks a lot better! i've also gotten them off with a hammer and chisel when thats all i had
1) the pics suggest that you may have re-used the old seal that blocks the inner bearing into place. occasionally you get lucky and the seal comes out in re-useable condition, but as a general rule that seal should be replaced any time its removed. this goes for any seal.
2) the third-to-last picture has the appearance that the snap ring isn't fully seated into the shaft, but is riding on the outside of the spline. its often necessary to pull the shaft outward to get the snap ring to drop in. maybe its just in the pic and you did it right, but it caught my eye
other than that, everything looks good. i once made the special socket required by cutting up a large 3/4 drive socket i had on hand, but the one you bought looks a lot better! i've also gotten them off with a hammer and chisel when thats all i had
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
looks good. just a couple points that caught my attention
1) the pics suggest that you may have re-used the old seal that blocks the inner bearing into place. occasionally you get lucky and the seal comes out in re-useable condition, but as a general rule that seal should be replaced any time its removed. this goes for any seal.
2) the third-to-last picture has the appearance that the snap ring isn't fully seated into the shaft, but is riding on the outside of the spline. its often necessary to pull the shaft outward to get the snap ring to drop in. maybe its just in the pic and you did it right, but it caught my eye
other than that, everything looks good. i once made the special socket required by cutting up a large 3/4 drive socket i had on hand, but the one you bought looks a lot better! i've also gotten them off with a hammer and chisel when thats all i had
1) the pics suggest that you may have re-used the old seal that blocks the inner bearing into place. occasionally you get lucky and the seal comes out in re-useable condition, but as a general rule that seal should be replaced any time its removed. this goes for any seal.
2) the third-to-last picture has the appearance that the snap ring isn't fully seated into the shaft, but is riding on the outside of the spline. its often necessary to pull the shaft outward to get the snap ring to drop in. maybe its just in the pic and you did it right, but it caught my eye
other than that, everything looks good. i once made the special socket required by cutting up a large 3/4 drive socket i had on hand, but the one you bought looks a lot better! i've also gotten them off with a hammer and chisel when thats all i had
I did re use the seal because it was in perfect condition, if i notice it to start leaking out the back i will have to replace it i guess.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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thats good on the snap ring, i thought it might just be a camera angle thing, but wanted to make sure
for the seal, its primary purpose is to keep water OUT of the hub, as a little water will destroy your bearings pretty quick. the grease is thick enough it'll stay there with the seal missing. i've done it.
for the seal, its primary purpose is to keep water OUT of the hub, as a little water will destroy your bearings pretty quick. the grease is thick enough it'll stay there with the seal missing. i've done it.
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