I was rather let down myself. I figured they would take an old beat up p.o.s. Bronco and build something outrageous out of it. That Bronco was a prime candidate for a full restoration. Then they didnt even try to dive it like they were in a competition, they just destroyed it in about 30 seconds.

 

Also, the 152 rating was the EPA depressed EGR tuned down timing retarded number, just a simple tune up, K&N, cut the egr and boost the timing to around 14* will wake her up

 

Put a 351C timing chain set in it, stock M's have a retarded cam

 

I'm currently doing a 400 build up. I'll try to give you some insight.

A crank swap only involves getting a 400 crank. If you buy it at a parts store, it will have the main and rod bearings.

Using a 400 allows you to use 351 Cleveland pistons. However, the rods will have to be bushed. Have the rods reconditioned and new rod bolts installed. If you can find a set of 400 9:1 compression pistons, you wont need the 351C piston nor the bushed rods.

Don't go wild on the cam. These engines have big ports and valves. Just be sure to talk to someone knowledgable when buy your cam. Also, get the springs that match the cam.

Use a good oil pump. If you replace the oil pump shaft, BE SURE THE NEW ONE FITS THE PUMP AND DISTRIBUTOR BEFORE YOU PUT IT IN PLACE. Can you tell I have some experience with that?

HEADACHES, I mean headers. Great when they work , a real pain otherwise. Headers are difficult to install, but easy to bolt up pipes to, no stupid donut gasket and rusted up studs. They will make more power, possibly give a little gas mileage (mine did). They do radiate heat more than manifolds, usually at the starter's expense. A hot starter won't turn very well(you'll need to make a heat shield). If you can afford them, use ceramic coated or stainless steel headers.

I'm taking up a lot of space. Send me an e-mail if you want some more info.

 

ha try putting them in a 1970 cougar. i got 2 1/8 at the flange. lol