starting problem
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 839
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From: Brooklyn
starting problem
Hi Gang: My 51 Ford F-3 is making me pull my hair out. It has the original 6volt positive ground set up. I had the starter rebuilt after buying a new battery. I have cleaned all of the terminals. I have cleaned the ground cable attached to the frame. Turn the key, push the starter button and she only clicks. Is it time to replace the starter relay switch? What else could be giving me such grief?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Richmond VA
starting problem
hi
i just fixed the same problem no my 51. the idiot that had the truck before me had three different sizes of cables. a 4ga, 2/0ga and 1 ga. the six volt system can not push the amps a 12 volt system can, so you need big cables, so the low volts can push the high amps. i replaced all three cables, battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, & ground to the bell housing bolt right above the starter with 2/0 ga. (about the size of your thumb). i also replaced the soleniod. you should be able to get all from napa. let me know if you think this is the problem.
i just fixed the same problem no my 51. the idiot that had the truck before me had three different sizes of cables. a 4ga, 2/0ga and 1 ga. the six volt system can not push the amps a 12 volt system can, so you need big cables, so the low volts can push the high amps. i replaced all three cables, battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, & ground to the bell housing bolt right above the starter with 2/0 ga. (about the size of your thumb). i also replaced the soleniod. you should be able to get all from napa. let me know if you think this is the problem.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn
starting problem
Originally posted by 51dueller
Sounds like you have a bad ground.
Sounds like you have a bad ground.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 839
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From: Brooklyn
starting problem
Originally posted by ddurant
hi
i just fixed the same problem no my 51. the idiot that had the truck before me had three different sizes of cables. a 4ga, 2/0ga and 1 ga. the six volt system can not push the amps a 12 volt system can, so you need big cables, so the low volts can push the high amps. i replaced all three cables, battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, & ground to the bell housing bolt right above the starter with 2/0 ga. (about the size of your thumb). i also replaced the soleniod. you should be able to get all from napa. let me know if you think this is the problem.
hi
i just fixed the same problem no my 51. the idiot that had the truck before me had three different sizes of cables. a 4ga, 2/0ga and 1 ga. the six volt system can not push the amps a 12 volt system can, so you need big cables, so the low volts can push the high amps. i replaced all three cables, battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, & ground to the bell housing bolt right above the starter with 2/0 ga. (about the size of your thumb). i also replaced the soleniod. you should be able to get all from napa. let me know if you think this is the problem.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
starting problem
It would click like that on my electric hoist. It basically uses a starter on a pump to move the hydralic fluid. I used a booster cable on the motor and battery to get it to work.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
starting problem
Hi Brien,
A few months ago we had a thread on this topic, as another FTE member was also having starting problems. In that thread, I mentioned that I had to take my frame apart because of rust between the riveted frame joints. After discussing things, we realized that if you have your battery ground going to, say, a frame rail, and the engine ground going to, say, a cross member, you could end up with a bad ground at the riveted frame joint between the rail and cross member due to rust.
If memory serves, the recommendation from that thread was:
1. make sure that the battery and engine are both grounded to the same frame member
or
2. make sure that you connect the two frame members with a ground cable if the battery and engine are grounded to separate frame members.
This may not turn out to be the reason for your starting problems but it might be good to keep in the back of your mind.
A few months ago we had a thread on this topic, as another FTE member was also having starting problems. In that thread, I mentioned that I had to take my frame apart because of rust between the riveted frame joints. After discussing things, we realized that if you have your battery ground going to, say, a frame rail, and the engine ground going to, say, a cross member, you could end up with a bad ground at the riveted frame joint between the rail and cross member due to rust.
If memory serves, the recommendation from that thread was:
1. make sure that the battery and engine are both grounded to the same frame member
or
2. make sure that you connect the two frame members with a ground cable if the battery and engine are grounded to separate frame members.
This may not turn out to be the reason for your starting problems but it might be good to keep in the back of your mind.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 126
Likes: 1
From: Northwest
starting problem
If it makes one sharp click and no other sound, the problem is an open circuit in the high current cables between the soleniod and the starter. Coild be the solenoid is bad or the starter itself is bad. Check for voltage at the starter. Check solenoid wiring and starter wiring.
It it makes a sharp click and groans and tries to turn over, the problem is a bad connection between the soleniod and the starter.
If it clatters on and off, the problem is a poor connection between the battery and the solenoid. The solenoid is closing and the high resistance drops the voltage until the solenoid drops out and then it repeats.
Good luck, these problems can be a real pain. Be careful around that battery. They can explode and are full of acid. Wear safety glasses at all times.
Johann
It it makes a sharp click and groans and tries to turn over, the problem is a bad connection between the soleniod and the starter.
If it clatters on and off, the problem is a poor connection between the battery and the solenoid. The solenoid is closing and the high resistance drops the voltage until the solenoid drops out and then it repeats.
Good luck, these problems can be a real pain. Be careful around that battery. They can explode and are full of acid. Wear safety glasses at all times.
Johann
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Richmond VA
starting problem
Hi Brien,
to get a sure ground (i am assuming postive ground) run the cable from the battery to a bell housing bolt as near the starter as possible. then you can run a much smaller cable from that bolt to the frame. the starter is your biggest amp draw. if you take that high amp draw through the frame, i agree with earl, you may have a bad connection due to rust or dirt.
to get a sure ground (i am assuming postive ground) run the cable from the battery to a bell housing bolt as near the starter as possible. then you can run a much smaller cable from that bolt to the frame. the starter is your biggest amp draw. if you take that high amp draw through the frame, i agree with earl, you may have a bad connection due to rust or dirt.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 839
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From: Brooklyn
starting problem
Originally posted by Earl
Hi Brien,
A few months ago we had a thread on this topic, as another FTE member was also having starting problems. In that thread, I mentioned that I had to take my frame apart because of rust between the riveted frame joints. After discussing things, we realized that if you have your battery ground going to, say, a frame rail, and the engine ground going to, say, a cross member, you could end up with a bad ground at the riveted frame joint between the rail and cross member due to rust.
If memory serves, the recommendation from that thread was:
1. make sure that the battery and engine are both grounded to the same frame member
or
2. make sure that you connect the two frame members with a ground cable if the battery and engine are grounded to separate frame members.
This may not turn out to be the reason for your starting problems but it might be good to keep in the back of your mind.
Hi Brien,
A few months ago we had a thread on this topic, as another FTE member was also having starting problems. In that thread, I mentioned that I had to take my frame apart because of rust between the riveted frame joints. After discussing things, we realized that if you have your battery ground going to, say, a frame rail, and the engine ground going to, say, a cross member, you could end up with a bad ground at the riveted frame joint between the rail and cross member due to rust.
If memory serves, the recommendation from that thread was:
1. make sure that the battery and engine are both grounded to the same frame member
or
2. make sure that you connect the two frame members with a ground cable if the battery and engine are grounded to separate frame members.
This may not turn out to be the reason for your starting problems but it might be good to keep in the back of your mind.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn
starting problem
Originally posted by johann5
If it makes one sharp click and no other sound, the problem is an open circuit in the high current cables between the soleniod and the starter. Coild be the solenoid is bad or the starter itself is bad. Check for voltage at the starter. Check solenoid wiring and starter wiring.
It it makes a sharp click and groans and tries to turn over, the problem is a bad connection between the soleniod and the starter.
If it clatters on and off, the problem is a poor connection between the battery and the solenoid. The solenoid is closing and the high resistance drops the voltage until the solenoid drops out and then it repeats.
Good luck, these problems can be a real pain. Be careful around that battery. They can explode and are full of acid. Wear safety glasses at all times.
Johann
If it makes one sharp click and no other sound, the problem is an open circuit in the high current cables between the soleniod and the starter. Coild be the solenoid is bad or the starter itself is bad. Check for voltage at the starter. Check solenoid wiring and starter wiring.
It it makes a sharp click and groans and tries to turn over, the problem is a bad connection between the soleniod and the starter.
If it clatters on and off, the problem is a poor connection between the battery and the solenoid. The solenoid is closing and the high resistance drops the voltage until the solenoid drops out and then it repeats.
Good luck, these problems can be a real pain. Be careful around that battery. They can explode and are full of acid. Wear safety glasses at all times.
Johann
Now just the one click. I am suspicious of that solenoid. I may just replace it after I switch around the grounding as suggested by Earl.
Thanks for all of the help. I will report back my findings. Thanks again.
Brien
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