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My truck recently started clicking after a start. Coincidentally it happened directly after a full tank fill up. My brother looked and listened and said it was an injector and to add a cleaner/lubricant. I did so and 3 days later still clicking.
There is no loss of power or codes being thrown. Just a clicking that is annoying as heck. How do I check to see if I am losing one and which one? I just priced them out and I really don't wanna be replacing them, at $300+ apiece I cannot afford it. That's just crazy.
It did do it once before earlier this Winter and after a couple tanks of fuel mixed with injector cleaner it went away.
How long typically does it take for them to get cleaned and lubricated to become quiet again and what else should I do?
How many miles are on your truck? Do you have any fuel mods done like the hutch mod or the FRx? Most all 7.3's have a noticeable clicking or injector knock, some years louder than others. How low do you run the tank?
it can get air in around the fuel line coming from the tank, all so the return in the tank is right beside the pickup so when the tank gets low the returning bubbles cant get away from the pickup so it gets in the fuel line. that is why a lot do the hutch mod
How many miles are on your truck? Do you have any fuel mods done like the hutch mod or the FRx? Most all 7.3's have a noticeable clicking or injector knock, some years louder than others. How low do you run the tank?
143000. No mods like the Hutch(?) or the FR?). This is a new clicking sound. A month ago it ran quieter than my Brother in Law's 6.0 after I added the BG diesel fuel treatment. This last time the tank was about an 1/8th full. I usually fill up at a 1/4 tank
Originally Posted by snakedoc
it can get air in around the fuel line coming from the tank, all so the return in the tank is right beside the pickup so when the tank gets low the returning bubbles cant get away from the pickup so it gets in the fuel line. that is why a lot do the hutch mod
What is this Hutch mod? I tried doing a search and my system keeps booting me out (at work).
Which mod is more effective and cost effective? If you have info on these please post it. For some reason I keep getting a page error when I search for the terms "Hutch Mod or FRx mod"
Absolutly, Snakedoc's advice is where I would start and see what happens. You'll probably need the intank and fuel line fix in the future anyway. I had a ticking that drove me nuts even after the hutch mod. I installed IH. up pipes as I was installing a new wheel in the 38r and figured, might as well change them sooner than later even though I had no leaks, or so I thought. Turns out there was a small amount of sooting at the collector that I couldn't see until they were off. Now no more ticking. I don't remember the engine ever being this quiet, and I bought it new.
For the FRX go to Riffraff Diesel. They are a sight sponser. Go to venders at the top of the page. Someone will give you a link to the hutch mod. Hopefully it will work. Basically you drop the tank ( don't get nervous, its easy) and redo the pickup inside,then get rid of the quick connects that are pre pump because they let in air like Snakedoc said.
Jim.
No. The hutch mod addresses a kinda poor design in the pick up/fuel return in the tank. The FRX is a sort of simple regulated return to allow air in the fuel a way of going back to the tank instead of being forced through the injectors. Thats why the injectors tick or knock. the air is a poor dampner. The hutch mod is right up there at the top of the list along with proper functioning sensors and other systems. Air free fuel is critical. Air is considered a contaminate that needs to be eliminated. Its fairly easy and cheap to do. Lots of us, including myself put it of for to long as it seems intimidating, but after doing it, I regreted waiting. Its actually pretty simple and strait forward. Don't wait, go for it. You'll have all the help you need here at FTE.
Jim.
If the screens in the tank get clogged it can cause a restriction, this restriction can cause air to be sucked through the oring connections on the line from the tank to the pump. Air in the fuel will cause loud injectors. Remove the restriction on the in tank screens, and no more air being sucked in through the orings, and noise goes away. The cleaner may just be breaking up the debris on the in tank screens. When I did mine, I was not having any problems, mine looked horrable when I removed them.
Before
After