"Bulletproofing" Question
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Riverside, CA
"Bulletproofing" Question
So I have an '03 6.0 with a 20degree Oil/Coolant temperature difference. So I know it's time to do some work. The question is this do I need to change the current egr cooler. From my understanding they are already pretty bulletproof. If I put in head studs, change the oil cooler and add a coolant filter will that take care of the problem. If this was a $100 part it would be a no brainer but with shipping from Bulletproof I'm looking at $500. What do you guys think?
Or is it better to go with a egr bypass though I'm not sure who makes one anymore and a tuner?
The one other question is to put head studs on or not. This truck will primarily be used for towing my 11K lb trailer a few times a year and the other periodic hauling and towing tasks I have. Maybe 5K year. Bottom line is it worth the extra $1000 to do the head studs?
Any input I could get would be awesome.
Or is it better to go with a egr bypass though I'm not sure who makes one anymore and a tuner?
The one other question is to put head studs on or not. This truck will primarily be used for towing my 11K lb trailer a few times a year and the other periodic hauling and towing tasks I have. Maybe 5K year. Bottom line is it worth the extra $1000 to do the head studs?
Any input I could get would be awesome.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 131
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From: Cen, CA
I'd say so. I regret not putting in studs when I had my oil cooler and egr cooler replaced. It's just an added peace of mind.
Be careful with EGR deletes in California, smog shops specifically check for that, at least mine does anyway.
Be careful with EGR deletes in California, smog shops specifically check for that, at least mine does anyway.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Heads studs and bullet proof for sure if it were mine. Your oil cooler mitt be blocked a little but the temps to me don't seem that bad yet! Delete EGR for sure if it were mine but like said you need a friendly shop to get it smoged.. My son put in the undated one and ford now offers it, at least Hemborg dose. Early ones aren't as bad but still a problem.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 10,626
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From: Plano TX and Brentwood TN
If the EGR cooler isn't cracked, I would reinstall. Deleting or bypassing is illegal, regardless if you have emissions testing or not. That and it really doesn't do any good. EGR failures are typically a symptom of oil cooler issues, not the root cause. I have known a couple of people that still had issues after doing an EGR delete. It's not worth it in more ways then one. I still have my original one working and it's the "weaker" 05 version and I'm putting a helluva lot more strain on my truck then most people (even more then what you (OP) would do as I haul more then you weight wise).
To stud it or not, that's up to you. If the heads don't need work, I wouldn't do unless there is a need to. If you have to do it, I would make sure that the heads don't either need a little work or be replaced. Neglect of checking the heads typically results in repeating in doing the studs. At least studs are reusable though.
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To stud it or not, that's up to you. If the heads don't need work, I wouldn't do unless there is a need to. If you have to do it, I would make sure that the heads don't either need a little work or be replaced. Neglect of checking the heads typically results in repeating in doing the studs. At least studs are reusable though.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 705
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From: Taxachusetts
I'm doing a bullet proof egr cooler and replacing bolts with arp studs without changing the headgaskets. I have also ordered tunes to turn off the egr. I have a small leak in the egr cooler. No. Puking.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2012
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I'm with Tex 
Do as little as you can, disturbing things with out need does not always result in a gain. If you run no tune, what your usage is does not pose a strain on the engine. You can simply pressure test the EGR cooler, if it passes and is visually good why not reuse it? It's not the part that gets clogged, the oil cooler is.
Brian
Do as little as you can, disturbing things with out need does not always result in a gain. If you run no tune, what your usage is does not pose a strain on the engine. You can simply pressure test the EGR cooler, if it passes and is visually good why not reuse it? It's not the part that gets clogged, the oil cooler is.Brian
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Junior User
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From: Riverside, CA
Thanks for the input. I really don't believe that the egr cooler is leaking. If it were I would think it would be pretty obvious wouldn't it? As for pressure checking how would one go about doing that.
Samdad I assume you are just going to change one bolt at a time. Has anyone else done this? It will definitely save a fair amount on head gaskets.
Samdad I assume you are just going to change one bolt at a time. Has anyone else done this? It will definitely save a fair amount on head gaskets.
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If I put in head studs, change the oil cooler and add a coolant filter will that take care of the problem. If this was a $100 part it would be a no brainer but with shipping from Bulletproof I'm looking at $500. What do you guys think?
Or is it better to go with a egr bypass though I'm not sure who makes one anymore and a tuner?
The one other question is to put head studs on or not. This truck will primarily be used for towing my 11K lb trailer a few times a year and the other periodic hauling and towing tasks I have. Maybe 5K year. Bottom line is it worth the extra $1000 to do the head studs?
Any input I could get would be awesome.
Or is it better to go with a egr bypass though I'm not sure who makes one anymore and a tuner?
The one other question is to put head studs on or not. This truck will primarily be used for towing my 11K lb trailer a few times a year and the other periodic hauling and towing tasks I have. Maybe 5K year. Bottom line is it worth the extra $1000 to do the head studs?
Any input I could get would be awesome.
with a tune, if that is what you are gonna do.
most of the bypasses will fail a visual check. in calif. they do the
visual check, and the OBDII cable gets plugged in, but no probe
up the tailpipe...... yet.
my '06 had a egr failure, among other things. i dropped the money
on a number of things i might not have, as it's a van, and fixing it
isn't a sunny day in the park. i didn't want to have to pull it apart
again any time soon.
if you are gonna run any tuning on the engine, i'd get the head studs,
for two reasons... you can run more power, and you can have a bit more
piece of mind... or i could, anyway. ARP's are $500, and a lot of
people on here have changed them one at a time, without issue.
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 705
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From: Taxachusetts
I will be doing 1 at a time. enough people have done it that I'm willing to try it. my egr cooler is leaking only enough to make it sticky under the egr valve and lose a cupish amount of coolant a week. my delta is 4 or 5* apart so I'm not worried about the oil cooler.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 10,626
Likes: 7
From: Plano TX and Brentwood TN
i'd avoid the egr bypass. first of all, you can turn off the egr valve
with a tune, if that is what you are gonna do.
if you are gonna run any tuning on the engine, i'd get the head studs,
for two reasons... you can run more power, and you can have a bit more
piece of mind... or i could, anyway. ARP's are $500, and a lot of
people on here have changed them one at a time, without issue.
with a tune, if that is what you are gonna do.
if you are gonna run any tuning on the engine, i'd get the head studs,
for two reasons... you can run more power, and you can have a bit more
piece of mind... or i could, anyway. ARP's are $500, and a lot of
people on here have changed them one at a time, without issue.
However, running a tune only to shut off the EGR has had some reporting of the valve not closing all the way. I don't know if that's really happening or not, but just something to think about.
I will be doing 1 at a time. enough people have done it that I'm willing to try it. my egr cooler is leaking only enough to make it sticky under the egr valve and lose a cupish amount of coolant a week. my delta is 4 or 5* apart so I'm not worried about the oil cooler.
There is one big assumption there that has to be true. That there is no issue what so ever with your heads and/or bolts at the time.
According to you, you are already losing coolant and you do have a leak in your EGR cooler. I personally do not know of a failing EGR (yes a crack even a small one means the EGR "failed") that is independent of an oil cooler issue. You have a small crack on the EGR cooler, could be something small with the oil cooler.
Are you actually driving it hard enough to get it to show more then a 4 or 5° spread?
With your truck I wouldn't assume anything if I was going to be going in there. 6.0s usually don't have isolated issues due to how everything is connected.
Now it might be something isolated (doubtful in my experience, especially when it comes to the EGR Cooler), but you already for sure know of one issue, I sure wouldn't be assuming that there aren't others.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I will be doing 1 at a time. enough people have done it that I'm willing to try it. my egr cooler is leaking only enough to make it sticky under the egr valve and lose a cupish amount of coolant a week. my delta is 4 or 5* apart so I'm not worried about the oil cooler.
Mine had that very same issue and turned out to be a combustion efficiency issue OR an issue w/ the oil from the ccv vent (or both).
NPCCPartsman does not believe that it could be fuel under the EGR valve, but when I fixed the FICM, minimized idling, and rerouted the ccv ........... it all dried up. Later when I had a BPD EGR cooler installed, I confirmed that I had NO LEAKS in the OEM cooler (after removing it). It was no doubt an issue with combustion efficiency.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Riverside, CA
thanks for all the responses. No I don't believe I'm going to run any tunes. I think they are cool but for my purposes stock power is sufficient. I'll never be towing more than 11K lbs which I believe stock will more than handle. Plus the more I think about it if I'm going to the length of doing studs I might as well do new gaskets. It's just not that much more effort at that point.
Final question. Someone on here mentioned pressure testing the egr cooler. Is there a standard process for that or is there somewhere I can take it to have it done? It sounds like a good idea for piece of mind.
Final question. Someone on here mentioned pressure testing the egr cooler. Is there a standard process for that or is there somewhere I can take it to have it done? It sounds like a good idea for piece of mind.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
First part of this is the pressure test on the truck then it goes into removal and bench testing.
EOT/ECT check
TSB 09-8-3
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...3&d=1318287140
I think there is a write-up in the Tech folder and also a couple of YouTube videos.
EOT/ECT check
TSB 09-8-3
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...3&d=1318287140
I think there is a write-up in the Tech folder and also a couple of YouTube videos.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 675
Likes: 1
From: NV
When my EGR cooler failed I had white smoke in exhaust. I put a garden hose on one port, my thumb on the other and I could see water coming out of the exhaust ports. To get enough pressure to reliably test the cooler (20psi?) would take some more professional equipment than I had! The system cap opens at 15-16 psi so you would not want to apply more than twice that.
UPDATE: Read the TSB that Randy linked to above, that's how Ford does it. Mine was the shade tree version.
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