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I just purchased this truck, 2006 F350 129,000 miles. 300 miles later found out it needs has issues. The temp separation is out of spec, coolant 197 oil 223.
Not puking coolant and runs OK for now but I was going to pull my 5vr this weekend and took it in to the Ford Dealer because the yellow wrench came on. Tech said it needs new Oil and EGR coolers.
Not sure what to do. I'm told I might as well bullet proof it while I'm at it and do an EGR deleat. How do I find a good shop in my area, Charlotte, NC or Columbia, SC.
Can't help you on a reputable shop in your area. I wouldn't tow with the truck in the condition it is now.
If you do the egr delete you might get away with towing with a clogged oil cooler...but I doubt it. And if you're deleting the egr the oil cooler isn't much more work. But before you change the oil cooler you do need to do several chemical flushes and distilled water flushes.
So, basically-
1. Do NOT tow until you've fixed the oil cooler and egr issues
2. I'd recommend doing the flushes this week BEFORE doing any of the other work
3. Replace the oil cooler and the egr cooler. Or delete the egr cooler (my preference)
Thanks tfunk88. I already decided not to tow but am a little concerned about just taking her back home 100 miles away. The Ford store can have it ready with a new oil cooler and egr cooler this week but I don't think they will do the delete that i really want to have done. I've thought about having the head bolts done all at once but don't know about the cost?
Head studs are about $425 for the studs themselves. I'd think for labor to do the oil cooler, egr delete, and studs (involves head removal and gasket replacement, I'd also do updated stand pipes and dummy plugs) I'd guess you're looking at at least $2500.
If they don't want to do egr delete you could do it yourself, it's not too bad. None of the above is that bad except for the head gasket/stud installation.
Also, an oil cooler replacement without proper flushing is pretty much asking to do the oil cooler again pretty soon.
In houston it was $1175 for Studs, stand pipes, dummy plugs, and STC fitting. After they tore into it and started finding everything else it was pretty much parts cost and no added labor at that point.
From the fact you know that your running hot I take it you
have some type of live data display like the Scanguage II.
Just keep an eye on things.
Stay out of stop and go traffic if you can.
The thing to watch is if the temps start to climb slow down
and try to keep air moving over the radiator. Also A/C on will
add some heat to the system 2 ways. Heat from the condenser
and from the added HP to run the compressor.
With the oil heating like that and the coolant not climbing any thing
you can do to lessen the HP output of the engine will help (HP = Heat)
More horsepower the more heat you make.
In houston it was $1175 for Studs, stand pipes, dummy plugs, and STC fitting. After they tore into it and started finding everything else it was pretty much parts cost and no added labor at that point.
I just purchased this truck, 2006 F350 129,000 miles. 300 miles later found out it needs has issues. The temp separation is out of spec, coolant 197 oil 223.
Another great example of what most of us have said before buying a 6.0. Run the diagnostics!
If glenalt had done this, he probably wouldn't have bought this truck, or at least, got a much better deal to pay for the fixes.
Can't say it enough, do your homework first!
I just purchased this truck, 2006 F350 129,000 miles. 300 miles later found out it needs has issues. The temp separation is out of spec, coolant 197 oil 223.
Not puking coolant and runs OK for now but I was going to pull my 5vr this weekend and took it in to the Ford Dealer because the yellow wrench came on. Tech said it needs new Oil and EGR coolers.
Not sure what to do. I'm told I might as well bullet proof it while I'm at it and do an EGR deleat. How do I find a good shop in my area, Charlotte, NC or Columbia, SC.
Either is OK.
Any help / advise is appreciated.
Not sure where you reside, but NC has inspections and emission checks; SC does not. That should help determine EGR route you go. NC may do visual inspection for EGR cooler (but I don't know for sure). I think someone mentioned the EGR cooler from BPD.
Also, "bulletproofing" includes different things depending on who you ask, but it won't happen for $1175 no matter how minimally you do it (if you're paying somebody). For $1175, it was a very, very hungry mechanic replacing bolts with studs one at a time, and I still don't know how it came in at that price. just my 2-cents.
....or $1175, it was a very, very hungry mechanic replacing bolts with studs one at a time, and I still don't know how it came in at that price. just my 2-cents.
I assume you're referring to my comment and not sure what you're talking about, maybe it was $1275. YMMV.
I assume you're referring to my comment and not sure what you're talking about, maybe it was $1275. YMMV.
Yeah. Maybe I misunderstood what your were saying. What was all the work that was done and the final bill? That might be the appropriate question.
I don't think the OP should expect he can go to a competent shop and pay $1200 and drive away with a studded engine. If you're gonna pull the heads, then you're a grand in partswise just to start.
The final bill was much higher after they tore into it and found all the other problems I was complaining about. But I was originally billed for the 1175 or 1275 for Studs/gaskets, STC fitting, Stand pipe and something else that gets changed in there ?Dummy plug or turbo drain tube something or other.
I'll have to find bill somewhere with my insurance paperwork.
The final bill was much higher after they tore into it and found all the other problems I was complaining about. But I was originally billed for the 1175 or 1275 for Studs/gaskets, STC fitting, Stand pipe and something else that gets changed in there ?Dummy plug or turbo drain tube something or other.
I'll have to find bill somewhere with my insurance paperwork.
05-23-2016, 07:58 PM
