duraspark conversion help
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duraspark conversion help
Good afternoon, I just put my duraspark conversion in (thanks TheDudeAbides
), in addition i replaced the carb with a rebuilt carter non feedback 1bbl. When i started the truck earlier, it started right up. When i went to lock down the distributor bolt while running, the truck shut off......has not started since. I loosened the distributor lock down bolt and tried turning the cap while cranking still did not start.......then truck acted like it had a dead battery and would not turn over. Where do i go from here? Help would be appreciated
....
Thanks in advance,
Matt
), in addition i replaced the carb with a rebuilt carter non feedback 1bbl. When i started the truck earlier, it started right up. When i went to lock down the distributor bolt while running, the truck shut off......has not started since. I loosened the distributor lock down bolt and tried turning the cap while cranking still did not start.......then truck acted like it had a dead battery and would not turn over. Where do i go from here? Help would be appreciated....Thanks in advance,
Matt
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From: Austin, TX
You're saying at first, it was cranking but not starting; now it's not even cranking? Is that true? If so, what happened in between those two states? Is the battery simply worn down from cranking over and over?
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It started for a few moments until I started turning the distributor. I went outside a few moments ago after leaving the battery charger on for about 2 hours and it started up but did the same thing....did not touch the distributor this time. The coil has 7.8 volts DC across it and I am getting spark on the plug wires, the only line I have hooked up to the carb is the fuel...vacuum line is in place but not hooked up. Kinda getting frustrated........any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Austin, TX
I don't think you've really answered my question. It's turning over but not starting, or not even turning over? Now you're saying you can get it to run on its own and then it quits? It seems like we're hearing 2 or 3 different scenarios. It's not clear to me what your truck is (or isn't) doing.
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Yes I apologize, after it starts and cuts off, it will turn over but will not start....that happened both times. The motor will crank until it sounds like the battery is going dead, that happens faster than usual. It ran fine and started up with the old setup this past weekend....the battery has 12v DC on volt-ohm meter with the battery charger not hooked up. The only thing that I did between the 2 scenarios is hook up battery charger and use DVOM to take readings, nothing else was touched.
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
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From: Spokane, WA
"...vacuum line is in place but not hooked up." I'm not sure what you mean by that. Do you have any open ports on the carb or manifold? If so, they need to be plugged or connected to the devices they power...brake booster, PCV, etc., except for the dizzy until you get it timed. While doing that, the vacuum port on the carb for the dizzy must be plugged.
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Fmc, yes I have power to the red wire of the ignition module.
harte, I will try plugging the rest of the ports this afternoon.
Does the choke heater need to hooked up as well?
Thanks for all of the help,
Matt
harte, I will try plugging the rest of the ports this afternoon.
Does the choke heater need to hooked up as well?
Thanks for all of the help,
Matt
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From: Austin, TX
The choke needs to be closed for the engine to start cold. The choke heater needs to be hooked up so that the choke can open as the engine warms up.
If this is an electric-assist choke, the electrical connection alone is not enough because the electric portion does not kick in until the choke reaches a certain temperature. As such, the hot-air stove must be connected as well.
I agree with Harte3; you shouldn't be trying to solve any issues in the presence of open vacuum lines. Get those hooked up first.
If this is an electric-assist choke, the electrical connection alone is not enough because the electric portion does not kick in until the choke reaches a certain temperature. As such, the hot-air stove must be connected as well.
I agree with Harte3; you shouldn't be trying to solve any issues in the presence of open vacuum lines. Get those hooked up first.
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