Does anyone have any pictures of the required massaging (tactful dents) required to get the 4" DP to fit? I am aware of the firewall lip removal that is required. I brought a Stainless Steel system so I am going to guess it will require a larger hammer???

Cheers,

Glenn

 

Trail and not too many errors. If you have access to a Porta-power, as one member did here, you can do a bit of pushing of the cab wall to make a bit more room.

1) fit and check what adjustments are necessary - mark;
2) un fit and apply said force to marked area;
3) fit again, if it still doesn't fit, go back to 1.

 

Thanks Simon,

Sounds right up my alley.
Beat it into submission!!!!!!
I will source the hydraulic panelbeating device also. I think it may have to be the start of my build thread and hopefully make it a little clearer for those in the future with the Aussie F-Trucks as there is so much maybe-kinda information out there.

Brian,
I have read your ladder bar install i think I have a handle on it only difference is I am using Tough Country T/C20990
Tuff Country Traction and Ladder Bars

Should be very similar, any other pointers/tips that aren't in your write up?

Cheers

 

A nice write up would help many. Its just seems to be a bit different for each truck. Just be patient cause it is one of those PITA jobs.

The traction bars are pretty straight forward. Just remember to measure twice and drill once. Also make sure you have a good set of drill bits. I couldnt tell from your link if those bars are adjustable. If they are not you will have to drill where they sit. Which may require removing stuff, like the tank to gain access. Certain bolt holes need a battery drill to gain access because the electric is to long.

 

Just wondering if a 1" or 2" body lift would make this easier?? Anyone in Aus tried the body lift? I would be looking at something mild as I don't really like the exposed chassis look.

 

You would need to move the firewall away from the downpipe ( as in towards the rear) to achieve the clearance. Lifting the cab wont achieve that.

 

OK, I finally managed to get this installed (During the middle of puttinf a second story reno on my place as an owner builder). I thought ok 4-5 hours and the job would be done. ahh wrong!!!! in my case, it took forwever to shoe horn the old DP out. That is a jokers amount of clearance in there and when I was sizing up the 4" DP I was truely worried as I used the cut approach to get the old exhaust out so no turning back!!!
After the fiasco of getting the factory DP out i tried several methods to get the required clearance on the fire wall. In the end it took a porta power pack to get it done. It is deffinately not for the faint hearted to push the firewall around like that but in the end I was happy with the result.(The footrest feels a little different inside the cab but I can get used to that) Finally managed to snaked the new DP in after much cussing and sore fingers. I blueprinted/marked where to place the only deformations on the DP( right at the top of the elbow to clear the instrument cluster section of the firewall) I was not game enough to try to push this section of firewall and lived with the small dents. Trying to juggle the clamp at the turbo was more fun, several attempts required to get it. The DP lined up perfectly with the stock system so I was happy with that!!!
Next came the rest of the system install. Starting from the muffler I worked towards the rear, I ran into several issues.
1) as a dual system it splits with a Y piece after the muffler from there one pipe to each side. The lower pipe hits the diff when driving and has dented it up.
2) the exit points dont allow any clearance for the heavy duty chassis mounted tow bracket I have so more cutting.
3) no room for spare tyre.
4) None of the stock hanger locations could be used properly after the muffler
I am going to order some slip on bends and change up the entire rear section to fix all the above issues.
The front section went nice and smooth to the muffler. The kit came with extra clamps so they could be adjusted to suit our stock hanger locations.
I loved the 6" SS tips that I ordered. JUst need to get them equal. Looks like a messed up crab at the moment as I had to rush to finish so I could use the truck to get more building supplies.
Sorry I didn't manage to get any pictures as I was just too focused on getting it all done ASAP. Even if I had the time to cruise with it I doubt I could have got any that would have been of any use? I really take my hat off to those who do stop and take the pic's, I just get in the zone and go from start to finish!!
I will post part numbers of the kit when I find them again but I will say this.
A porta power pack with several jacks is a MUST have!!! I was luck in that the one my mate had had the air operated pump so as I was working alone I was able to hold the jack and pump at the same time. If it was a manual pump I think I would still be there!!
Bottom line, I am super happy with the results and the sound I just need to get time to resolve my few issues and them move onto the next part of the project.

 

Well done. And yes it is a pita job. One thing, dont go barefoot in the truck now. that floor gets real hot. lol.