how to replace ignition module on 88 f150 (351)
#1
how to replace ignition module on 88 f150 (351)
for the last few months ive been having issues with erratic idling and stalling on my 88 f150. i replaced the fuel pressure regulator and that wasnt it, so i picked up a new ignition module (and ignition module tool) hopefully this will fix it, but what i was wondering is how exactly do i get the old one off? do i have to remove the whole distributor or can i turn it enough to get to the screws? havent been able to find any tips on the internet or in the haynes manuel reguarding the replacement of this part
#2
Yes, you should be able to turn the distributor enough to replace the module.
NOTE: Be sure to mark where the distributor is now so you can get it close when finished. But you will need a timing light to get the timing set properly.. When you use the light be sure to pull the SPOUT connector......
You should pull the codes to see if there are any stored trouble codes, just throwing random parts at it can get expensive.. Here is one way to do it if you don't have a code reader... Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
The easiest way to read codes is to get an Equus 3145 code reader, the go for around $25 to $30 depending on where you find one.. Here is a good example ...
NOTE: Be sure to mark where the distributor is now so you can get it close when finished. But you will need a timing light to get the timing set properly.. When you use the light be sure to pull the SPOUT connector......
You should pull the codes to see if there are any stored trouble codes, just throwing random parts at it can get expensive.. Here is one way to do it if you don't have a code reader... Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
The easiest way to read codes is to get an Equus 3145 code reader, the go for around $25 to $30 depending on where you find one.. Here is a good example ...
#3
#4
You should really reconsider checking the codes, it could be something simple that will cost very little as compared to replacing everything on it until you get lucky and FINALLY get the right part, if you ever do..
The SPOUT connector is a small grey or black jumper in a plug with only 2 wires going to it near the distributor, the timing marks are on the harmonic balance at the front og the engine.. They are marked every 2° from (working from memory here) 30°/40° BTC (before top center) to (as best I remember) 20° ATC (after top center).. You want yours set to 10° BTC.. The pointer will be a metal tab at the edge of the balancer like so <....
The SPOUT connector is a small grey or black jumper in a plug with only 2 wires going to it near the distributor, the timing marks are on the harmonic balance at the front og the engine.. They are marked every 2° from (working from memory here) 30°/40° BTC (before top center) to (as best I remember) 20° ATC (after top center).. You want yours set to 10° BTC.. The pointer will be a metal tab at the edge of the balancer like so <....
#5
#6
yeah i should look in to getting a code reader...my gfs car had the exact same problem not even a year ago that was fixed by changing those parts so i figured id do the same with my truck and see how it goes...worse comes to worse, it has a few new parts that wont need attention for awhile. either way, if this doesnt fix it ill need a code reader just to know where to begin, and thanks for the link.
Oh and JWC 3....hilarious quote! my old girl leaks a little oil too
Oh and JWC 3....hilarious quote! my old girl leaks a little oil too
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