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I had the same problem. I converted the rear to disc, and added a hydroboost unit. Now, braking wise, it is a new truck. It is one of the best mods I've done. k
I took the core out of a 94 astro van in the junk yard, and turned it in on a rebuilt unit. I drove it after the disc swap in the rear, and was not satisfied, so I continued and installed a hydro boost unit. Nothing scares me now.
An F350 powerbooster and properly functioning front calipers and adjusted rear drums will work pretty well. Hydroboost would be a nice setup with rear discs. I do think you need an adjustable Proportioning valve.
It is always a good idea when interested in making a modification to your truck, to research it and gather info, learn the pros and cons, the cost, the limitations, other peoples experiences with the mod, etc. Use the search function on this forum to read some other threads about a hydro install. Take notes, write down part numbers, calculate costs so you don't rely on one slanted source for all your info. Good luck.
I think my booster may actually be shot and that is the source of my problems. With the truck off, if I stand on the brake and then turn the truck on -- the pedal does not move any further. Shouldn't the booster come on once the truck is running?
I think my booster may actually be shot and that is the source of my problems. With the truck off, if I stand on the brake and then turn the truck on -- the pedal does not move any further. Shouldn't the booster come on once the truck is running?
The booster will hold vacuum after the engine is cut off. To test the booster, pump the brake a few times with the engine off, then hold the pedal down while starting the engine. The brake pedal should fall a fair bit when you start it.
I think its worth a full check on the system before making changes. If the booster or master are weak it could be an easy low cost fix. I find the brakes on my '78 F250 to be excellent after I got them up to snuff. I have the twin piston fronts and D60 rear drums. I've towed up to 5000# w/o trailer brakes and over 6000# with surge brakes and found the brake system to be very capable. I did go through the whole system but didn't use any special parts. Repairs included new rear shoes (AZ semi mettalic), cylinders and hardware, rebuilt front calipers, new front pads (NAPA better grade semi mettalic) a new MC (Autozone), flex hoses and replacement of rusted sections of brake line. My rotors and drums are fairly low mile originals as is the booster.
The booster will hold vacuum after the engine is cut off. To test the booster, pump the brake a few times with the engine off, then hold the pedal down while starting the engine. The brake pedal should fall a fair bit when you start it.
Seems to be working. Brakes are still awful, though. Even at 20mph, I need to STAND on the brakes and pray to get it to stop w/ my trailer that is less than 8,000lbs and has working surge brakes.
I'm not getting excessive pedal travel -- it seems to move the correct amount. It's a firm pedal it just seems like it's not generating much pressure. I can stand on the brakes and it doesn't feel like I'm anywhere close to locking them up.
Very hard to describe on here. I'm going to start taking stuff apart and see if I can find a seized caliper or some other obvious problem.
Pulled the wheel off last night and it was pretty obvious that my caliper is seized up on 1 side. The outbound pad looks like it's 100% and the inbound pad is gone.
Ordered rebuilt calipers and pads. I'll pull the rotors and have them turned depending on how they look when I take them off.
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