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I have an 84 bronco I6 (with a 3 inch body lift and 33" tires). I keep on burning up the farthest back u-joint (500 miles before it was totally gone). I am installing them correctly and not letting the bearings fall down. When I was replacing the u-joint, I noticed that my yoke had some play in it (not in the direction that the yoke actually spins, but more of an up and down motion). It is not extremely loose, but is noticeable. I was wondering whether I should just try to tighten the yoke bolt, or is it probably a bearing or seal that went out in it. Due to the high mileage on my truck, would I be better off totally swapping out the rear end? If that is the case, are there any rear ends that would fit my truck that come with a locked differential? Thanks for the help!
I have the same problem with the looseness in the rear yoke but I get 15,000 approx miles on a good quality (spicer) u-joint even though I have a 4 inch lift and had to add traction bars due to the way I drive my stick in the dirt! What technique do you use when changing the joint? What part of the joint is wearing out first? If the part that is attached to the rearend is going first it may be that you are tightening the bolts to tight. They only need to be 8 to 15 ft lbs. This is the most common problem with u-joint failure. After you install the joint on the shaft end make sure that it moves freely.
Also if you want a limited slip rearend look under a shortbed truck as they usually have a traction lock rear! As for the yoke looseness I was wondering the same thing about just tightening it.
Is the pinion seal leaking? Does it have a large nut or a bolt holding the yoke on. If it is a nut I believe the torque is around 175 ft lbs or so. Try tightening it up, you won't hurt it by doing this. If it's a bolt I'm not sure what the torque is but you can try tightening it, just don't overdue it.
One or both of your pinion bearings are shot, if you can wiggle the yoke.
Especially with the drveline off, try to push pull on the yoke, letting it spin a little as you do. It should not be able to move other then spinning.
It could happen, but the individual that mentioned 175 foot pounds sounds about right. They usually don't just back off. And the bolt in this case is the pinion, so if the threads are chewed up for some reason you will probably need a new one.
Some tranny rear end shops will do diagnosis for free. They put the truck on a lift in gear and listen to the bearings with a mechanics stethescope.
That is what I would recommend, from there you can fix it, pay to have it fixed, or swap the whole rear end out.
How much "play" is acceptable? When I move the yoke in the direction that the driveshaft moves it when the truck is in neutral and tires on the ground The yoke will turn 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. It also acts like it is moving out or in when I do this. My truck has about 150,000 miles on the rearend but was not maintained by previous farmer at all. I figured I will wait until the rearend completely dies before I change it but might tighten the yoke if I can without making it worse.
That doesn't sound to bad. However I would invest in a angled shim for your rear end they cost under $20 and will dramatically extend the life of your U joints
galaxiedan
I'd recommend pulling the yoke, seal, bearing, & crush collar, and replacing the crush collar, nut, & seal. Then set the pinion preload to spec. 8.8" Specs
steve83,
I have never messed with an axle other than changing a axle seal and fluid. Does messing with the pinion nut change the setup on the pinion as regards the ring and pinion? I have the semi-floating Ford (sterling)10 1/4 rearend under my truck, are the specs going to be the same as an 8.8? I have a traction bar setup welded to the rear axle and would prefer to keep it versus swapping it out. Thanks for all the info. Does anyone know how to add photos to these threads?