My 97 F250 HD with a 351 started giving me trouble starting at the end of the winter. It is used to plow a long driveway only. It would always end up starting until now. It just clicks at the solenoid. I pulled the starter and had it tested and it was fine. I replaced the solenoid, it still just clicks. I had a mobile jump start unit on it for extra power too. Any suggestions? I can't find anything lose. It's driving me crazy.
Thanks

 

Have you tried jumping the starter itself and bypassing the solenoid to try and start it? That would narrow down your problem.

 

How is your battery have you checked it?

 

Yes the battery is testing fine. I've done some more digging and think I may have some bad connections somewhere between the battery, solenoid, starter etc. Just a pain to try and narrow exactly where it might be. Any hints on which connection is most likely to go bad?

 

I had the same problem with my 1992 F250. Here is what I was told. The alternator does not charge a battery like the old generators. If the battery is weak, maybe just showing 12 volts it is no good. The battery usually shows around 14-15 volts. The alternator if good, maintains that charge. According to AutoZone the alternator and battery should be changed together now a days. (I don't buy it)

I found I had a short at the door jamb switch. The positive line to the starter was also loose.

Now I believe I had a Mexican tampering with my trucks. He kept leaving notices on them that he wanted to buy them, but at no where near the retail price. My ford Rangers transmission is jacked now as well. Both trucks only have about 132,000 miles on them.

I replaced the battery and the alternator and starter. I did my own work so I saved a bundle. I made Walmart exchange the battery for free. I had purchased one about a month earlier and it just would not hold the charge. I bought my starter for $30 off of eBay. It works great. I also went up on the amperage of the Stock Alternator since i run more equipment than the truck came with. I went up to 90amps but there are 120amp's available but usually have to be ordered. NOTE: Order new Alternator connections, I got mine off of eBay. These must be replaced if you change the Alternator and some time even if you just pull them out. It makes the built in resistor go bad is what my research proved. I soldered/tinned mine in place. Go to the extra effort to make sure you do not have any loose connections. It sounds like a lot to do, if you have the tools on hand I was able to do it all in about an hour.

If I had more time I would have done that, but this has become my everyday driver.

I added heat shrink to the wires and bolts so they do not come loose. It also will show tampering evidence right away. You can use electrical tape if you do not have access to a heat gun. A blow dryer will also work on high settings.

This resolved my starting problems.

Tools you will need: Wire cutter, wire stripper, soldering gun, flux core solder wire, nuts on my battery were 1/2" they can very. 5/8" socket for the Belt Tensioner pulley and a long handled ratchet or breaker bar. Check nut sizes on starter, alternator, tensioner just to make sure you have them. Electrical tape or shrink wrap. Remember to put shrink wrap on the wire before soldering. You may need a Flathead or Philips screw driver.

Instructions: Disconnect negative battery wire, then the positive. Remove belt by loosening the tensioner. You only need to remove it from the alternator pulley. Remove the wire loom from the wires leading to the Alternator. The wide plug is most important. (if you have the new plugs) use all the new wire you can and eliminate as much of the old. Put shrink wrap on the wires, then solder the wires on. Slip the shrink wrap in place and heat. Unbolt the alternator (two bolts) they are long threaded so be patient, replace and re-bolt the new one. Put the bely back on and check that it has not slipped anywhere, Unbolt your starter if it needs to be replaced. (I would do this anyway just to check for wear). Slip shrink wrap over the positive wire and strip and install a new blade plug. It must be tight. If yours is loose at all that could be your problem. Once your new or old starter is in place, attach wires. shrink the shrink wrap on the blade plug, it will make things better and tighter. Install your battery, hot wire first and then the ground. Start Truck and you should be good to go.

 

A loose one at the starter would be my first guess. The bladed plug gets loose.

You might look at my other post to see what I did. You may not need to go that far. If I am going in the back woods or country. I want new parts, and I want to know everything about them.