Hey guys, just a thought.

How many of you folks who have had your head(s) crack were running with stock head bolts and how many had upgraded to ARPs?

I was wondering if stock head bolts might have something to do with the 6.0 heads cracking... My thought is that maybe slight flexing of the head, with torque to yield bolts, might be causing them to crack? If this could be the case, maybe ARPs might be the remedy to not having cracked heads? Or is this wishful thinking?

p.s. I was gonna start a poll but can't figure out how, so please just post your experience with this, if you have any.

Thanks, T

 

I asked this same question prior to getting my engine work done. There has been a lot of debate about the TTY bolts and thier initial installation. By all accounts the TTY bolts are fine to use. BUT...Big But here...

If you are running tunes, or towing (like me) and need to have the work done, the ARP studs in combination with new OEM gaskets are the way to go. Several of the people at the shops I talked to while trying to decide where to get my done said specifically that there was no problem with the TTY bolts and that of course thier work was guarranteed.

Since there has been many people that have posted here (and many who have had no issue with thier heads that we may never hear from) and have had repeat failures with TTY bolts and other than OEM gaskets, weighed against those who have installed ARP studs and OEM gaskets with next to no failures, the suggestions and opinions I recieved from many were "If you are getting the work done, go with the ARP studs and OEM gaskets and be sure."

Jim, a friend of mine had an 06 F 250 put studs in with Black Onyx Gaskets. The heads went at 300 miles after the repair was done. The work was redone with ARP's and OEM gasket and he has had no issues.

I had my work done in November, and when Spring came around I towed my fifth wheel for the first time since the work. Huge difference. The first trip was from Southeast NH to Williamsburg Virginia and back. No sweat, no issues, towed beautifully and I didn't 218F.

I do not think TTY bolts, ARP's etc have anything to do with heads cracking or failing unless the bolts were put in incorrectly. (ie torque stages on the bolts done incorrectly during installation / and then I am no engineer or mechanic) The heads are tanks! Very heavy, solid sons of guns!

Eric

 

Thanks for the reply, Eric. I just can't get why these heads would crack under normal use. I do have a tuner and do tow, but I only use Matt's SRL tune, which is supposed to be good for non studded trucks, and when I tow I use Matt's Unlimited tow tune, which is pretty darned mild. I may have expected a gasket to possibly go and was prepared to switch to ARPs if that ever happened. But a crack? Then I find out that it is relatively common for heads to crack??? So I was just wondering if maybe collecting data of whom had cracks and whether they were bolted or studded, maybe it might shed some light. I am kind of hoping to read that studded heads have much fewer cracking issues than bolted, mostly so I can have a warm and fuzzy feeling after getting my truck studded next week. She's going in for head(s) replacement after Memorial Day and studs are in the work order. Warm and fuzzy would be nice after laying down the credit card, if you know what I mean.

It just seems to me that any flex from cylinder pressure lift might explain why these things crack. I dunno, trying to apply logic. I keep hearing how these heads are very strong, but they still seem to crack?

 

Yes, it is an expensive job! Just so I understand do you indeed have cracked head(s)? There are specific symptoms that help to add weight to the possibility of a damaged head. But in my opinion, a cracked head is not a common thing. I can happen under certain circumstances... but common? I am not sure of that. And indeed if there is an issue with a head or heads, each one is going to cost over a grand! Very expensive indeed!

One symptom would be fuel in the coolant..that has proven to help identify a head problem. Still a machine shop or repair shop outfitted for this type of work is going to inspect for cracks or other defects. If you suspect them and are planning on having gaskets done, insist on having the heads inspected, properly. Many Ford dealerships check for flat and true and do not send the heads out. If there appears to be a defect Ford will suggest you replace the head. End of story.

Considering the age of your truck, unless somebody abused it prior, if there was an original defect with the head (you are towing, and have tunes) I would venture to say it probably would have manifested itself, or symptoms of it already...

 

Tim I hated when I read you had this happen... It re-enforces that I doubt I'll even run the Atlas 40 tune if I ever do the FICM. Maybe there is no "safe" tune for our motors (in stock form)?

And most certainly you should stud it once you're doing the job. The peace of mind will be the warm and fuzzy you are looking for...

On your theory: I've seen pictures of some of the cracks and they seem to be around the valve, injector, or glow plug. I'd expect a crack caused by flex to be more across or on the edge of the dome to the outside of the head. Just thinking on it a bit here...

 

Cylinder heads normally crack as a result of overheating - either in general or specific overheating in a cylinder due to improper combustion. If you run the engine too hot, it can crack as it cools down. Overheated exhaust valve seats can crack, maybe caused by running a tune with too much timing. Heads can fatigue over time and crack mostly due to age and too many heat cycles. Casting flash can cause hot spots. TTY bolts are perfectly fine if installed to spec and if the engine is not tuned, overheated, hydro-locked, etc.

Brian

 

X2, I agree Eric

 

I forgot to add that when the cylinder head was designed it had to have compromises built in that can create thermal stresses and imbalances, and that when the head was made it might have been imperfectly cast. All this can create a susceptibility to cracking. Cast iron cracks, it's what it's good at.

Brian

 

Hey T,
If you haven't seen it, read through this thread. Lots of good info! Especially check post 22 and 43.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-6-0-head.html

Good info from Cheezit

 

Do you think my using Matt's SRL Tune and/or Unlimited Tow Tune may have had something to do with my head(s) cracking? These were supposed to be safe for my unmodified/unstudded engine. Even if I was studded, the SRL tune is a relatively mild tune for a studded truck. There are folks who use SRL++ with a studded truck and it seems their only reason to use APR studs was to avoid head gaskets blowing out, not a crack. That's why I was wondering if maybe the heads lifting might have something to do with the cracking. I dunno...

 

So do you think running Matt's SRL tune may have caused this cracking? Maybe too much fuel or timing? I though SRL was relatively mild. If so, I think I'll ditch that tune and go stock with only EGR turned off. It's not worth the fun in driving with the tune, if it gets this bling blang expensive.

 

I may be exposing my ignorance here, but I thought these heads were aluminum...

 

Thanks Rusty. Yeah, I was a part of that thread. I woke up the other night at about 3:00AM and had this theory about head flex. My brain works overtime in the middle of the night and I can't sleep...
Anyway, I was hoping that I may have stumbled across the cause of this problem. I suppose it's wishful thinking.
The truck is going into the shop the day after Memorial Day for at least one new head (maybe two), arps, upgraded standpipes/dummy plugs and upgraded STC fitting.
I guess I might want to yank the tunes too. Another 100 bucks for nuthin...?

 

Another thought, would running stock exhaust create too much heat to the head while running SRL? I had thought that maybe the turbo might be a concern, but hadn't considered the head.
BTW, I was very easy on the go peddle while tuned with SRL. Only stepped into it once in a while, usually to pass someone, short duration. But other than that I drove pretty tame. In fact the only reason I had the SCT tuner in the first place was to turn off that pesky ol EGR CEL due to EGR delete. Matt's SRL tune was an afterthought, based on good reports of a good for your truck thing here on FTE.

 

Do you have a pyrometer to watch your EGT's? With a stock exhaust, SRL, and no pyrometer you're asking for trouble as car as the heads are concerned.