I've got a C4 Trans with 33k original miles. After a cold start, and I shift it into drive, the shifter goes to drive just fine, but the gear dosn't engage unless you give it gas for about 10-15 seconds. I'm not sure what to do beyond check the fluid level, which seems fine. While the transmission isn't in my truck, I know that there is lots of experience on this board that are more than qualified to chime in!

 

Has this been happening for a long time? Has the problem been getting progressively worse? If so it may be a pump with excessive clearance. Then agin iut may be as simple as a clogged screen in the sump.
What are the exact symptoms?

Marty

 

C-4's & c6's were notorius for seals getting hard and delaying when going into gear. Even low mileage...had more to do with the age. Once they warmed up they would work pretty good. After sitting same thing. That might be what you have....additive may help, but the problem is additives don't the difference between a good seal or bad one.

 

I just thought I would follow up with you all and say that I resolved the issue by adding 1/2qt of Type F transmission fluid. Apparently I didn't pick up on the part where one should check the level while in park idleing after warming up the tranny.

 

So, I haven't quite solved my problem with the C4 trans and so I figured the next easy thing to do would be to replace the screen (and fluid) with new. I did my research and thought it would be essentially as easy as removing the 11 bolt pan (why didn't they put a drain plug in it?) and the 9 tiny bolts in the filter. I'd then line up the new filter, replace the 9 tiny bolts, put the ban back on with a new gasket and put in fresh fluid.

Well, my good eye found that there were some extra parts in the pan after dropping it and the original screen. The problem is, I don't know where they came from and therefore cannot put them back! I'm hoping someone can help me with the placement of the parts on the right most side of this photo. I've got a spring that looks like it holds a metal head of some sort, and a plastic float that I don't know what to do with.



Oh yeah, to make matters worse, I don't have a lift, so this is all being done on my driveway which isn't perfectly level, or all that comfortable.

 

I believe the plastic plug is a leftover from assembly. Nothing to worry about there. It's a plug used in the hole for the dip stick tube. It's pushed down into the pan when the tube was installed at the factory during vehicle assembly.

The spring and other part looks a bit more important. Someone else will have to tell you the details on that stuff. That's all I know.

 

As you look at your pic of the filter you will see a flat tab on the right side of it about halfway next to a bolt hole, the small piece fits into the spring and then goes into a hole on the valve body small piece (valve) first, then the tab on the filter screen holds the spring assembly putting pressure on it. They fall out when the screen is removed. "EDIT" depending on the year I think some valve bodies have this and some don't, not sure though.

 

^^^^^^what Jim said .
And just throw away that yellow plug .

 

Ditto he above. But don't throw away the plug. It might be of use in sealing a spare transmission.

That fluid and filter do look very crappy. Bet the fluid smells "burnt". Don't forget to drain the convertor and blow out the cooler lines.

 

The fluid is original, with the exception with the 1/2 quart I added last year. I was only intending on replacing the screen and throught all the fluid was in the pan. Please advise on how to tackle these other items you mention draining.

 

Some not all torque converters have a drain plug on them. To access the drain plug remove the inspection plate on the bottom front of your bell housing, this will give you access to the bottom front of your flex plate and the torque converter right behind it. You can use your starter to slowly bump or turn the Torque converter until you see a small bolt different than the ones that hold the T C to the flex plate this should be the drain plug. With it at the lowest point, unscrew it to drain the fluid trapped in the torque converter, then replace it. To clear the cooler lines, undo the two lines that come off the transmission and go to the transmission cooler ( the cooler may be built into the radiator). Disconnect the lines at the trans and use your compressor to blow out whatever fluid is trapped in the lines and cooler. Don't forget to put the lines and plug back b4 you start adding the new fluid. I add 3 quarts, briefly start the engine to pump that fluid, then add the remaining fluid, the final fluid level check should be done with the engine running with the
thans in park, after going thru each gear briefly to distribute the fluid to all parts of the system. I'm no expert but this is how I would do it. Hopefully someone else will agree with my method, or correct me which I would welcome, because Im still learning myself, and always welcome a better way to do things.

 

Jim, as many times as you had your trans in/out, I'd say you are THE MAN for C-4 questions!

 

That's a good description, Jim.

 

Some more questions, What year of vehicle is trans out of? When shifted into reverse did the trans engage right away or was there a delay? Fords used a forward clutch drum that is engaged in all forward gears. When the trans was put in second gear was there a dely as the trans would start out in second gear only? If delayed you probably have a bad forward clutch pack seal. I definately would add an additive when changing fluid. As far as spring and valve , would like to know what year.

 

One thing to watch. If you drain it all, I found a couple of "internet specs" for the amount of fluid needed to refill the C4. I went with the 5 quart spec first, and then found I needed about 4 more before it was full.