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Did the GPR LED mod a bit back when I did my gauges, and all worked fine. Now it seems to flicker and maybe not come on upon tturning the key. Sometimes the light doesnt even come on till after I start it, then it seems to run the cycle. Looked at all connections and all are fine. But upon inspection where you hook up to the GPR seems really hot. Casing and all is warm, but the top bolts are hot. Is this normal, or could that be the problem?
Inside the relay is a round copper disk that is able to rotate on a center shaft. Sometimes a portion of the disk will develop arc spots while other spots are nice and clean. Each time the relay is activated, the disk is able to rotate a little bit. So, sometimes you get a good connection....sometimes you may not. Your LED is telling you that you have a worn out relay.
Inside the relay is a round copper disk that is able to rotate on a center shaft. Sometimes a portion of the disk will develop arc spots while other spots are nice and clean. Each time the relay is activated, the disk is able to rotate a little bit. So, sometimes you get a good connection....sometimes you may not. Your LED is telling you that you have a worn out relay.
Alright. Now the next questions.
1. What brand?
2. Any upgraded ones?
3. How important is it right now since its summer in Texas?
1. What brand?
2. Any upgraded ones?
3. How important is it right now since its summer in Texas?
Not sure on the first two questions....
Only important if you travel to high elevations. Working glow plugs are helpful at very high elevations even during the summer. My GPs were worn out and my truck would struggle to start at 8500 ft even when daytime temps were in the 70's. I put in a new set of glow plugs and it made all the difference.
1. What brand?
2. Any upgraded ones?
3. How important is it right now since its summer in Texas?
Your GPR is acting exactly like mine, before total failure. LEDs are nice. I went with a Motorcraft, they are good for several years, especially in Tx. Many others do the Stancor.
If you ever get in a pinch, you can us the AIH relay in it's place. That is right by it.
I kept having bad luck with the Napa GPR109 so I went with the Stancor. I found it to be cheaper than OEM and just as reliable from reading others' experiences.
Reason I asked is because the local parts store is ranging 75-150 on a quick glance. I can get it feom Clay for 45, so I didnt know how important it was to have right away.
Well I went cheap locally and threw one of the Duralast on. It seems it was the problem cause the LED works fine now, and does not get hot. Now time to see how long it last.