Starting problem in warm weather
#1
Starting problem in warm weather
Hello, I've posted not to long ago about my truck having a starting problem in the winter/spring, changed out the glow plug relay and started fine for like 2 months and then out of nowhere problems started to come up again. Its summer here in Chicago 81F today and I tried starting my truck at about 2:30PM. It was plugged in over night, (just testing to see if it might be the glowplugs or Gpr) and I had a really hard time starting it. Took about 15-20 minutes to start the son of a b*tch. It cranked and cranked, drained the diesel out of the filter thing, turns over momentarily and back to cranking, then it turned over, ran for about 20 seconds and died again. Then FINALLY after about 2 more tries it turned over, I gave it a little gas and to keep her alive and it worked, idles/runs/drives perfectly after that and would start no problem while the motor is still warm. I tried starting it about 6 hours later (8:30) at like 70F outside, and I couldn't get it started at all, cranked and cranked, sputtered a little bit of light gray smoke would feel as if it were to already turnover to start, but would go back to cranking.... No check engine lights or anything is on, I can't seem to see whats wrong. Someone please help as I'm going to need this thing as a daily driver in about 4 days.
#2
#3
Fuel Bowl is the thing that the fuel filter screws into correct? and what's an ICP :P Im sorry I'm a noob haha This is the first 7.3 I've ever owned, let alone my first car, I'm only in highschool still.
#6
No, I haven't yet. I want to get a pretty good diagnosis, I'm still in highschool and I don't really have the funds to be going around buying a bunch of different parts and hoping it will do the trick.:P But I'll look into it. Where is the Cam position censor located on the motor?
#7
I bought the truck with 122k miles, and so far the only thing I did to it was an oil,fuel filter, coolant,tranny fluid and glowplug relay change. Do you think its possible for the ICP to be bad?
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#8
The CPS can be bought from Riffraff for about $35, they have a tendency to go bad, most everybody on this site will tell you to carry a spare one at all times, they can leave you stranded
The ICP however is about $150 at Riffraff or $200 at the dealer. Most people will tell you to go with Ford or International for sensors, (that's what clay at riffraff sells) they seem to be more reliable.
Being in school you probably don't have the cash for a scan tool like AE, but they can be invaluable for diagnostics, and checking sensors like BARO, MAP, EBP, that can affect fuel mileage also. you might be able to find someone on this site in your area to help with scanning your truck. Check your local chapter here at FTE.
#10
At 81 degrees the glow plugs really don't do much so I wouldn't waste too much time there right now. How does it start once you have driven it some? Is it just hard starting first thing in the morning or every time you fire it up?
If it is every time your IPC is a good place to start. It is pretty much directly behind the alternator and sticks up at an angle pointed to the fuel filter bowl. The easiest way I have heard to test it is when the truck won't start, pull the plug off the sensor and try starting it with it unplugged. The Service engine light WILL come on but if the truck fires right up then it is the sensor. My understanding is that tells the computer how much oil pressure there is in the high pressure oil system that fires the fuel injectors. Unplugging it is a temporary test/limp home trick that triggers the computer to ignore that sensor and run on a default pressure setting which is usually enough to start the engine and get you home, that's all it is meant to do so don't drive it day after day with it unplugged.
The CPS is the cam position sensor. It is located directly above the crankshaft pulley on the front of the engine, just to the passenger side of center. It is a sensor with a 90 degree bend in it with one 10mm bolt holding it on. You have to change it from the bottom. It tells the computer where your engine is in its rotation and when to fire the injectors and even if it is turning over at all. They are pretty much the "god" sensor to these engines. They can cause so many issues it is scary so it is always a good place to look. DO NOT buy any brand other than Motorcraft or International. You are only asking for trouble. Many of us drive around with at least one spare in the glove box and the tools to change it as they can go at any time and leave you by the side of the road, or they will go for hundreds of thousands of miles without a problem they are weird that way.
Unplugging the ICP sensor is free so try that first. IF you don't get any where with that than plug it back in and try replacing your CPS. After that you may have something more in depth going on like supply issue or something electrical like a bad ground.
Good luck
If it is every time your IPC is a good place to start. It is pretty much directly behind the alternator and sticks up at an angle pointed to the fuel filter bowl. The easiest way I have heard to test it is when the truck won't start, pull the plug off the sensor and try starting it with it unplugged. The Service engine light WILL come on but if the truck fires right up then it is the sensor. My understanding is that tells the computer how much oil pressure there is in the high pressure oil system that fires the fuel injectors. Unplugging it is a temporary test/limp home trick that triggers the computer to ignore that sensor and run on a default pressure setting which is usually enough to start the engine and get you home, that's all it is meant to do so don't drive it day after day with it unplugged.
The CPS is the cam position sensor. It is located directly above the crankshaft pulley on the front of the engine, just to the passenger side of center. It is a sensor with a 90 degree bend in it with one 10mm bolt holding it on. You have to change it from the bottom. It tells the computer where your engine is in its rotation and when to fire the injectors and even if it is turning over at all. They are pretty much the "god" sensor to these engines. They can cause so many issues it is scary so it is always a good place to look. DO NOT buy any brand other than Motorcraft or International. You are only asking for trouble. Many of us drive around with at least one spare in the glove box and the tools to change it as they can go at any time and leave you by the side of the road, or they will go for hundreds of thousands of miles without a problem they are weird that way.
Unplugging the ICP sensor is free so try that first. IF you don't get any where with that than plug it back in and try replacing your CPS. After that you may have something more in depth going on like supply issue or something electrical like a bad ground.
Good luck
#11
It's possible. If you unplug the sensor and it starts good then you know that's what it is. mine was really hard starting like you describe but within a couple days it wouldn't start at all. When you unplug the ICP, the PCM will guess what it thinks the high pressure oil is at and will still run, but don't drive it long that way mine was sluggish and really bad mileage. like 1/4 tank in about 15 miles.
The CPS can be bought from Riffraff for about $35, they have a tendency to go bad, most everybody on this site will tell you to carry a spare one at all times, they can leave you stranded
The ICP however is about $150 at Riffraff or $200 at the dealer. Most people will tell you to go with Ford or International for sensors, (that's what clay at riffraff sells) they seem to be more reliable.
Being in school you probably don't have the cash for a scan tool like AE, but they can be invaluable for diagnostics, and checking sensors like BARO, MAP, EBP, that can affect fuel mileage also. you might be able to find someone on this site in your area to help with scanning your truck. Check your local chapter here at FTE.
The CPS can be bought from Riffraff for about $35, they have a tendency to go bad, most everybody on this site will tell you to carry a spare one at all times, they can leave you stranded
The ICP however is about $150 at Riffraff or $200 at the dealer. Most people will tell you to go with Ford or International for sensors, (that's what clay at riffraff sells) they seem to be more reliable.
Being in school you probably don't have the cash for a scan tool like AE, but they can be invaluable for diagnostics, and checking sensors like BARO, MAP, EBP, that can affect fuel mileage also. you might be able to find someone on this site in your area to help with scanning your truck. Check your local chapter here at FTE.
#12
Hard starting warm...
In 81* ambient temps?
White/bluish grey smoke?
Pop your valve covers off and look for any oil spouts... not spouting oil.. and oil coming from between injectors and their homes.... and look for oil leaks from the body of the injectors themselves... oil should ONLY be spurting from the spouts. No oil from spouts while cranking/idling... problem
In 81* ambient temps?
White/bluish grey smoke?
Pop your valve covers off and look for any oil spouts... not spouting oil.. and oil coming from between injectors and their homes.... and look for oil leaks from the body of the injectors themselves... oil should ONLY be spurting from the spouts. No oil from spouts while cranking/idling... problem
#13
At 81 degrees the glow plugs really don't do much so I wouldn't waste too much time there right now. How does it start once you have driven it some? Is it just hard starting first thing in the morning or every time you fire it up?
If it is every time your IPC is a good place to start. It is pretty much directly behind the alternator and sticks up at an angle pointed to the fuel filter bowl. The easiest way I have heard to test it is when the truck won't start, pull the plug off the sensor and try starting it with it unplugged. The Service engine light WILL come on but if the truck fires right up then it is the sensor. My understanding is that tells the computer how much oil pressure there is in the high pressure oil system that fires the fuel injectors. Unplugging it is a temporary test/limp home trick that triggers the computer to ignore that sensor and run on a default pressure setting which is usually enough to start the engine and get you home, that's all it is meant to do so don't drive it day after day with it unplugged.
The CPS is the cam position sensor. It is located directly above the crankshaft pulley on the front of the engine, just to the passenger side of center. It is a sensor with a 90 degree bend in it with one 10mm bolt holding it on. You have to change it from the bottom. It tells the computer where your engine is in its rotation and when to fire the injectors and even if it is turning over at all. They are pretty much the "god" sensor to these engines. They can cause so many issues it is scary so it is always a good place to look. DO NOT buy any brand other than Motorcraft or International. You are only asking for trouble. Many of us drive around with at least one spare in the glove box and the tools to change it as they can go at any time and leave you by the side of the road, or they will go for hundreds of thousands of miles without a problem they are weird that way.
Unplugging the ICP sensor is free so try that first. IF you don't get any where with that than plug it back in and try replacing your CPS. After that you may have something more in depth going on like supply issue or something electrical like a bad ground.
Good luck
If it is every time your IPC is a good place to start. It is pretty much directly behind the alternator and sticks up at an angle pointed to the fuel filter bowl. The easiest way I have heard to test it is when the truck won't start, pull the plug off the sensor and try starting it with it unplugged. The Service engine light WILL come on but if the truck fires right up then it is the sensor. My understanding is that tells the computer how much oil pressure there is in the high pressure oil system that fires the fuel injectors. Unplugging it is a temporary test/limp home trick that triggers the computer to ignore that sensor and run on a default pressure setting which is usually enough to start the engine and get you home, that's all it is meant to do so don't drive it day after day with it unplugged.
The CPS is the cam position sensor. It is located directly above the crankshaft pulley on the front of the engine, just to the passenger side of center. It is a sensor with a 90 degree bend in it with one 10mm bolt holding it on. You have to change it from the bottom. It tells the computer where your engine is in its rotation and when to fire the injectors and even if it is turning over at all. They are pretty much the "god" sensor to these engines. They can cause so many issues it is scary so it is always a good place to look. DO NOT buy any brand other than Motorcraft or International. You are only asking for trouble. Many of us drive around with at least one spare in the glove box and the tools to change it as they can go at any time and leave you by the side of the road, or they will go for hundreds of thousands of miles without a problem they are weird that way.
Unplugging the ICP sensor is free so try that first. IF you don't get any where with that than plug it back in and try replacing your CPS. After that you may have something more in depth going on like supply issue or something electrical like a bad ground.
Good luck
If it were a CPS problem or IPC would it come up on a scanner? I think my neighbor might have a scanner that I can use.
The truck only has a really hard start in the morning and after about 6 hours of sitting turned off. Like if I drive it to the store and let everything warm up and get going I can run in and let it sit for about 2-4 hours and have it start on first crank.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-D...6cfae6&vxp=mtr This is the CPS I'm looking for correct?
Last edited by Dieseltorque; 05-16-2013 at 03:54 PM. Reason: added info
#14
Hard starting warm...
In 81* ambient temps?
White/bluish grey smoke?
Pop your valve covers off and look for any oil spouts... not spouting oil.. and oil coming from between injectors and their homes.... and look for oil leaks from the body of the injectors themselves... oil should ONLY be spurting from the spouts. No oil from spouts while cranking/idling... problem
In 81* ambient temps?
White/bluish grey smoke?
Pop your valve covers off and look for any oil spouts... not spouting oil.. and oil coming from between injectors and their homes.... and look for oil leaks from the body of the injectors themselves... oil should ONLY be spurting from the spouts. No oil from spouts while cranking/idling... problem
Very minimal gray smoke after I crank it a couple of times, once it starts up it runs and idles like a dream. I doubt it can be an injector problem, but I'll probably check that.
#15
It's possible. If you unplug the sensor and it starts good then you know that's what it is. mine was really hard starting like you describe but within a couple days it wouldn't start at all. When you unplug the ICP, the PCM will guess what it thinks the high pressure oil is at and will still run, but don't drive it long that way mine was sluggish and really bad mileage. like 1/4 tank in about 15 miles.
The CPS can be bought from Riffraff for about $35, they have a tendency to go bad, most everybody on this site will tell you to carry a spare one at all times, they can leave you stranded
The ICP however is about $150 at Riffraff or $200 at the dealer. Most people will tell you to go with Ford or International for sensors, (that's what clay at riffraff sells) they seem to be more reliable.
Being in school you probably don't have the cash for a scan tool like AE, but they can be invaluable for diagnostics, and checking sensors like BARO, MAP, EBP, that can affect fuel mileage also. you might be able to find someone on this site in your area to help with scanning your truck. Check your local chapter here at FTE.
The CPS can be bought from Riffraff for about $35, they have a tendency to go bad, most everybody on this site will tell you to carry a spare one at all times, they can leave you stranded
The ICP however is about $150 at Riffraff or $200 at the dealer. Most people will tell you to go with Ford or International for sensors, (that's what clay at riffraff sells) they seem to be more reliable.
Being in school you probably don't have the cash for a scan tool like AE, but they can be invaluable for diagnostics, and checking sensors like BARO, MAP, EBP, that can affect fuel mileage also. you might be able to find someone on this site in your area to help with scanning your truck. Check your local chapter here at FTE.
I think my neighbor next door has a scanner Ill see if he can help me out with that, I will also try checking the ICP. I put a new air and fuel filter on the truck like 200 miles ago so Im sure that can't be it.