95 Bronco Leaking Coolant
If the image doesn't work if you look at the pictures attached to my account you can see where it is leaking from. Thanks
Drill a hole through the center of the plug.
Stick a big punch into the hole, and tilt the punch so it pivots the core plug.
Grab the protruding edge of the plug with pliers and wiggle and pull, or get ahold of the plug more on the side and wrap the plug around the pliers.
Once the plug gets distorted enough, it comes out.
Then clean up hole edges with sandpaper and remove grit.
Find a socket that will just fit inside the new cup plug's rim (the socket should bear only in the bowl of the cup).
Smear some Permatex #1, the hardening type sealant, on the rim of the hole and on the sealing surface of the new cup plug.
Line up the plug and use a hammer on the socket while holding the socket squarely to the block face.
Drive the plug in until it's outer rim is just below the inner edge of the chamfer that is on the block hole.
The little "pipe" in your pic is probably the engine oil dipstick tube. Should be able to find and remove its bracket bolt, and hopefully wiggle/pull the tube up and out. Usually have an O-ring at the bottom end, that will need to be replaced when putting it back in.
The straighter shot you have at setting the new core plug in, the better.
Oh, I should add, that draining the radiator or pulling the lower radiator hose will not be enough to avoid a antifreeze bath. But removing the engine block drain plug on that side of the engine will drain the water jacket around the cylinders on that side, which is where the block core plugs are. The lowest point in the cooling system are the block drain plugs, one on each side. Passenger side drain plug on most V8's requires pulling the starter to get to it. Driver's side is usually easy to get at. I also use some Permatex #1 on the threads of the drain plug when I put it back in. The drain plugs are pipe-thread type of fittings.
The purpose of the block core plugs is to plug the holes that were used to sand-cast the engine block. Sand came out of those holes when the engine blocks were de-sanded (I forgot what the term was for removing the sand cores out from inside of a casting).
Soak the tube to block joint with some penetrant, repeatedly over time. See if you can grab the tube not far above the block with a set of pliers with curved jaws, like a slip-joint set. Don't want to deform the tube. See if you can twist/wiggle it up. If the tube wants to deform, could try sliding something like maybe a length of 4 gauge or so stranded wire down the inside the dipstick tube, something the right size that won't deform easy, to keep the tube round while you squeeze the tube with the pliers.
Or try penetrant as above repeatedly over time, then try freeze-spraying the tube real good right at the base, try to get all the way around the tube's circumference. Maybe that will shrink it just enough momentarily to allow the pliers to work.
Over at the 1997-2003 F150 forum, there have been discussions about how to pull stuck dipstick tubes out of modular engines. Some result in the tube cracking off, and how to pull the stuck tube bit remaining. There, the original dipstick tube is still available. Somebody like LMC Truck or ? may have after-market tubes available for the ~'95 vintage engines.
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