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Vibration Under Throttle

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Old May 15, 2013 | 09:22 AM
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Vibration Under Throttle

After doing a search of the forums (and using Google to search other forums) I have only been able to find folks with the opposite problem. I have a vibration in my truck that starts around 35mph, it gets better at highway speeds, but never goes away completely. I thought I might have lost a wheel weight. However, that probably isn't the case as the vibration goes away while coasting. As long as there is throttle input, either accellerating or maintaing speed, there is a vibration. I'm thinking it might be a driveline issue, but as I said I can't seem to find any mention of this problem with anyone else. I can coast all the way from 65mph down to a stop without vibration, but as soon as I touch the throttle it's back.

Although it's in my signature, my truck is a '99 F350, XLT, 4x4, 6.8L V10, CC, LB, SRW, AT, with only 85K miles, suspension is all stock as well, and my tires are pretty much stock size (285s instead of 265s).
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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One of the 6 U joints on its way out? Or a carrier bearing if it has one? Pull both drive shafts and feel the u-joints for bind or slop. Also the slip joint on the rear shaft may be lose or maybe just needs Fords special grease? Could be deeper but lets start simple and work our way up from there.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
One of the 6 U joints on its way out? Or a carrier bearing if it has one? Pull both drive shafts and feel the u-joints for bind or slop. Also the slip joint on the rear shaft may be lose or maybe just needs Fords special grease? Could be deeper but lets start simple and work our way up from there.
You are right about starting simple, I was just hoping it isn't a u-joint since I just replaced all of them, and the carrier bearing, on my Nissan. If it is, at least it isn't too expensive and I already know what I'm doing after doing 3 on the Nissan and two on the front the 350 when I did the ball joint/hub bearing replacement. I have to do my rear brakes anyway, so I'll probably drop the driveline while I'm doing that job.

Also, my truck is at home so I can't look. Does anyone know if the CC Longbeds have a double-cardan joint? Or is that just on the trucks with a shorter wheelbase?

EDIT: Thought I would add this just in case someone finds this thread while doing a search. The CC, LB, 4x4, has a 2-piece driveline with 3 standard u-joints and one carrier bearing. There is no double-cardan joint.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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I know others have had CP or plug misfires, which can usually be felt with acceleration and diagnosed as driveline, when in fact it's an electrical issue.
I would think just one out of ten cylinders misfiring could be harder to detect than a typical eight cylinder.
Something to maybe check as "starting simple."
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by r2millers
I know others have had CP or plug misfires, which can usually be felt with acceleration and diagnosed as driveline, when in fact it's an electrical issue.
I would think just one out of ten cylinders misfiring could be harder to detect than a typical eight cylinder.
Something to maybe check as "starting simple."
D'oh! I didn't even think of a misfire causing what feels like a drivetrain vibration! I have a misfire on cylinder 10 that still needs fixed. It is intermittent though and I had to drive the truck as I had to do a repair on one of my other vehicles. I think I better fix the P0310 before I go looking at the driveline.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by northwindone
D'oh! I didn't even think of a misfire causing what feels like a drivetrain vibration! I have a misfire on cylinder 10 that still needs fixed. It is intermittent though and I had to drive the truck as I had to do a repair on one of my other vehicles. I think I better fix the P0310 before I go looking at the driveline.
At least on your truck, access to the #10 cylinder really isn't that bad. Much easier than the #4 on my Expy.
Good luck.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by r2millers
I would think just one out of ten cylinders misfiring could be harder to detect than a typical eight cylinder.
I once thought the same thing, but it's not. I had a COP go bad and it was utterly obnoxious! I could hear the misfire at idle, and under load while driving it shook the entire truck in a way that could not go unnoticed.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Crazy001
I once thought the same thing, but it's not. I had a COP go bad and it was utterly obnoxious! I could hear the misfire at idle, and under load while driving it shook the entire truck in a way that could not go unnoticed.
You should see what it feels like to have 3 out of 10 misfire. Actually I'm surprised it ran as well as it did, although it would fall on its face and die if you revved it up and then let it go back to idle. Of course I didn't drive it in that condition, but I'm sure it wouldn't have been fun, or good for the engine for that matter.

Thanks for your input everyone, I'll be sure to report back what I find, even if it takes a few weeks to get around to it. (Although if it turns out to be an engine issue I suppose it should have been in the V10 forum )
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 03:57 PM
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Update?
What did ya find?
I have the same issue and am trying to change the rear-most U-J, its a little sloppy...
 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 09:23 AM
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I haven't even touched it, I've done my rear brakes and rotors and didn't touch the driveline or the miss yet. Too busy with work and other project around the house to get to it. It is being driven almost every day though, so it isn't too bad. Now my vibration on braking under 25 is still bugging me to no end, but that problem I've been trying to find since the Fall of 2011, and thus all new brake rotors, pads, and ball joints lately. I'll be sure to update this thread if I find anything new.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 08:51 PM
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It's Alive!

I finally got around to taking a look at the miss on cylinder 10, I was about ready to dig out the socket set and remove the coil and re-seat everything. 10 seconds after popping the hood I was checking the connections and found that the injector plug wasn't in all the way on #10. Idle smoothed out almost imperceptibly, so I wasn't sure that was actually the problem. Took her for a test drive though after clearing the P0310 and she runs smooth as can be now. As you can imagine throttle response is much better as is acceleration. Imagine that, 10 cylinders are better than 9, who would have guessed? I had to warn my wife for the next time she drives it as it gets squirrelly in the corners on our gravel road a lot easier than before. If I had known it would have taken a minute to fix before I would have looked at it a long time ago.

Thanks r2millers for your suggestion!
 
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