broken bolt. HELP PLEASE!
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Joined: Feb 2013
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broken bolt. HELP PLEASE!
Here's the situation. '87 302 had one of the bolts that holds the bracket for the power steering pump and a/c condenser break off. It broke off below the face of the head. I drill it out and tried a not-so-Easy-Out which of course broke off flush with the broken bolt. I tried to use cobalt drill bits without success. I've attempted welding up a small stud and nut but it's recessed too far. The machine and tool companies all said the carbide bits would shatter because a hand drill won't run slow enough. The local shops would have to pull the motor to even try using an edm. I'm stressed and contemplating just welding the bracket on since I plan to replace the motor within a year. Does anyone have any ideas I haven't tried? See any problems to welding the bracket on? I'm obviously not a mechanic so my idea may be stupid, I don't know and feel free to tell me so.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,933
Likes: 0
From: VA
Yeah, but if he can weld more material to the stud that's still stuck in there, he can then weld that to the surrounding steel of the bracket. It's a hack job, but it should work.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
If it's too far recessed you are in a pickle.
I'd really wonder how it broke off below flush to begin with.
One idea that hasn't been mentioned is to core bore it out and install a threaded insert.
By 'corebore' I mean a diamond grit tile/stone hole saw that is close to the thread size (<$20), run in reverse and constantly flushed with water.
It is really just grinding it's way through, but slow and steady you can get there.
It might just grab the broken bolt and spin it out.
(at least it's self centering, and you're not trying to go through the EZ-out)
You can then drill and tap for a Keensert or Timesert.
Good luck, whatever you try.
I'd really wonder how it broke off below flush to begin with.
One idea that hasn't been mentioned is to core bore it out and install a threaded insert.
By 'corebore' I mean a diamond grit tile/stone hole saw that is close to the thread size (<$20), run in reverse and constantly flushed with water.
It is really just grinding it's way through, but slow and steady you can get there.
It might just grab the broken bolt and spin it out.
(at least it's self centering, and you're not trying to go through the EZ-out)
You can then drill and tap for a Keensert or Timesert.
Good luck, whatever you try.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,737
Likes: 23
From: Westfield, Indiana
If it's too far recessed you are in a pickle.
I'd really wonder how it broke off below flush to begin with.
One idea that hasn't been mentioned is to core bore it out and install a threaded insert.
By 'corebore' I mean a diamond grit tile/stone hole saw that is close to the thread size (<$20), run in reverse and constantly flushed with water.
It is really just grinding it's way through, but slow and steady you can get there.
It might just grab the broken bolt and spin it out.
(at least it's self centering, and you're not trying to go through the EZ-out)
You can then drill and tap for a Keensert or Timesert.
Good luck, whatever you try.
I'd really wonder how it broke off below flush to begin with.
One idea that hasn't been mentioned is to core bore it out and install a threaded insert.
By 'corebore' I mean a diamond grit tile/stone hole saw that is close to the thread size (<$20), run in reverse and constantly flushed with water.
It is really just grinding it's way through, but slow and steady you can get there.
It might just grab the broken bolt and spin it out.
(at least it's self centering, and you're not trying to go through the EZ-out)
You can then drill and tap for a Keensert or Timesert.
Good luck, whatever you try.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Christina,
I see you have an Alden Manufacturing 'Grabbit' screw extractor there....
IME these are far superior and easier to use than conventional bits and EZ-out's.
My thinking was that the hole saw would be self centering in the head and you could avoid removing the bulk of the (very hard) EZ-out.
It works equally well in reverse, and is acting on the threads (where the problem lies)
Lenox, Hitachi and Bosch all sell these things.
I see you have an Alden Manufacturing 'Grabbit' screw extractor there....
IME these are far superior and easier to use than conventional bits and EZ-out's.
My thinking was that the hole saw would be self centering in the head and you could avoid removing the bulk of the (very hard) EZ-out.
It works equally well in reverse, and is acting on the threads (where the problem lies)
Lenox, Hitachi and Bosch all sell these things.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,737
Likes: 23
From: Westfield, Indiana
Christina,
I see you have an Alden Manufacturing 'Grabbit' screw extractor there....
IME these are far superior and easier to use than conventional bits and EZ-out's.
My thinking was that the hole saw would be self centering in the head and you could avoid removing the bulk of the (very hard) EZ-out.
It works equally well in reverse, and is acting on the threads (where the problem lies)
Lenox, Hitachi and Bosch all sell these things.
I see you have an Alden Manufacturing 'Grabbit' screw extractor there....
IME these are far superior and easier to use than conventional bits and EZ-out's.
My thinking was that the hole saw would be self centering in the head and you could avoid removing the bulk of the (very hard) EZ-out.
It works equally well in reverse, and is acting on the threads (where the problem lies)
Lenox, Hitachi and Bosch all sell these things.
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