Here's the situation. '87 302 had one of the bolts that holds the bracket for the power steering pump and a/c condenser break off. It broke off below the face of the head. I drill it out and tried a not-so-Easy-Out which of course broke off flush with the broken bolt. I tried to use cobalt drill bits without success. I've attempted welding up a small stud and nut but it's recessed too far. The machine and tool companies all said the carbide bits would shatter because a hand drill won't run slow enough. The local shops would have to pull the motor to even try using an edm. I'm stressed and contemplating just welding the bracket on since I plan to replace the motor within a year. Does anyone have any ideas I haven't tried? See any problems to welding the bracket on? I'm obviously not a mechanic so my idea may be stupid, I don't know and feel free to tell me so.

 

If you're replacing it within a year, save yourself the headache and just weld it up for now...

 

It's gonna be some trick, welding aluminum to cast iron!!!! I gotta see this!!!!!

 

Yeah, but if he can weld more material to the stud that's still stuck in there, he can then weld that to the surrounding steel of the bracket. It's a hack job, but it should work.

 

If it's too far recessed you are in a pickle.
I'd really wonder how it broke off below flush to begin with.

One idea that hasn't been mentioned is to core bore it out and install a threaded insert.
By 'corebore' I mean a diamond grit tile/stone hole saw that is close to the thread size (<$20), run in reverse and constantly flushed with water.
It is really just grinding it's way through, but slow and steady you can get there.
It might just grab the broken bolt and spin it out.
(at least it's self centering, and you're not trying to go through the EZ-out)

You can then drill and tap for a Keensert or Timesert.

Good luck, whatever you try.

 

I broke an easy off in my engine head drilled it out using a power dremel and Diamond Point Burr Bits. Started with those until I had a good center hole, then changed to the Tungsten/Carbide boring bits. Ez outs are incredibly hard but Diamond head and Tungsten/Carbide are stronger. Once you get the easy out (out) then continue to drill the rest of the bolt out until there is little left and you should be able to pick it out the remaining portion. If you bugger up the threads you can Timesert it and install a new bolt. Extracted all 20 of my manifold head studs and used this method on one that broke deep and then broke an easy out off in it to boot. IMHO if you have a diamond bit and use a dremel at very high RPM 25k it makes quick work of that easy out material. To center the small dremel bits and ensure I didn't get off center I took an old stud and cut it down and drilled a larger hole in it, thread into the hole over top of the broken stud then drilled through it. Holding it in the picture below. I had to use a dremel due to space issues, but the previous posters suggestion on a diamond bit with a regular drill would probably work in your case, bottom line you need something made of diamond.

 

Christina,

I see you have an Alden Manufacturing 'Grabbit' screw extractor there....
IME these are far superior and easier to use than conventional bits and EZ-out's.

My thinking was that the hole saw would be self centering in the head and you could avoid removing the bulk of the (very hard) EZ-out.
It works equally well in reverse, and is acting on the threads (where the problem lies)

Lenox, Hitachi and Bosch all sell these things.

 

The grabit in that photo is what broke in the next stud it was used on, in fact broke 2 of them, so not a fan. Only easy out that gave me any success were the square ones. I didn't have room for a hole saw but this OP might with his, not sure what size of bolt he's working with, but mine there wasn't enough space, drilling them out using Colbat bits one side larger each time did finally do it. Every 3rd bit I used a reverse Colbalt but never got one to spin out.