High coolant temp...?
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Sorry for the bad news. It is interesting that it's not making coolant. If the head(s) are the problem here is a thread with discussion about new/used/rebuilt options. Might be of some use to you:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ighlight=Sig40
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Fairbury IL
Sorry for the bad news. It is interesting that it's not making coolant. If the head(s) are the problem here is a thread with discussion about new/used/rebuilt options. Might be of some use to you:6.0 Head - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Thanks for the link!
Things have settled down a bit here since last night. Wife has some to her senses (honestly thought she was going to pop a blood vessel last night!) - and I found a good diesel shop in Peoria IL. Sent them an email to get their input and may just end up taking it to them for repair.
Lots of pics on their facebook page of them removing and working on all things Ford, so I'm hopeful.
I'm sort of over the money aspect of it - we just want it fixed. Already had to cancel our camping trip plans for Memorial Day weekend, and I am not interested in missing out on any more weekends like that!
Worst case scenario in my head -
2 new heads, gaskets, etc.
ARP Studs
EGR Delete
Oil Cooler (since its already opened up?!)
Coolant Filter setup
Blue Spring
Anything else major? I'm sure the shop will recommend at minimum the above. If anybody has anything to add to the list above, please do so.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
Have you ever seen smoke out the exhaust?? Is your coolant level filled to the minimum mark not the max?? Any coolant residue around the degas cap?? Does your coolant level ever fluctuate? Could you still make 26lbs of boost??
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
Thanks for the link!
Things have settled down a bit here since last night. Wife has some to her senses (honestly thought she was going to pop a blood vessel last night!) - and I found a good diesel shop in Peoria IL. Sent them an email to get their input and may just end up taking it to them for repair.
Lots of pics on their facebook page of them removing and working on all things Ford, so I'm hopeful.
I'm sort of over the money aspect of it - we just want it fixed. Already had to cancel our camping trip plans for Memorial Day weekend, and I am not interested in missing out on any more weekends like that!
Worst case scenario in my head -
2 new heads, gaskets, etc.
ARP Studs
EGR Delete
Oil Cooler (since its already opened up?!)
Coolant Filter setup
Blue Spring
Anything else major? I'm sure the shop will recommend at minimum the above. If anybody has anything to add to the list above, please do so.
Things have settled down a bit here since last night. Wife has some to her senses (honestly thought she was going to pop a blood vessel last night!) - and I found a good diesel shop in Peoria IL. Sent them an email to get their input and may just end up taking it to them for repair.
Lots of pics on their facebook page of them removing and working on all things Ford, so I'm hopeful.
I'm sort of over the money aspect of it - we just want it fixed. Already had to cancel our camping trip plans for Memorial Day weekend, and I am not interested in missing out on any more weekends like that!
Worst case scenario in my head -
2 new heads, gaskets, etc.
ARP Studs
EGR Delete
Oil Cooler (since its already opened up?!)
Coolant Filter setup
Blue Spring
Anything else major? I'm sure the shop will recommend at minimum the above. If anybody has anything to add to the list above, please do so.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Fairbury IL
No smoke out of the exhaust.
Coolant level was at or near max level.
Yes... coolant residue around degas cap.
Never checked coolant while cold - so I'm not sure if it fluctuated or not.
Scanned it, and boost peaked around 20psi or so, but I never sayed in the gas pedal long enough to see if it fluctuated or not.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Fairbury IL
Thank you everyone for the info, tips, and condolences. Our beast has a date with River City Diesel on June 3rd.
Head(s) (if cracked or otherwise damaged,), ARP head studs, EGR delete, oil cooler, MBRP 4 inch TurboBack, SCT X3, and RCD Coolant filter setup.
Getting an aluminum top fuel filter cap and fuel filters just because its due as well.
Crossing our fingers that the coolant contamination is a minuscule amount of oil and not actually diesel. Would be nice to not have to buy a mew head(s) - but we are prepared either way.
Cant wait to get the truck back and tow the camper!
Head(s) (if cracked or otherwise damaged,), ARP head studs, EGR delete, oil cooler, MBRP 4 inch TurboBack, SCT X3, and RCD Coolant filter setup.
Getting an aluminum top fuel filter cap and fuel filters just because its due as well.
Crossing our fingers that the coolant contamination is a minuscule amount of oil and not actually diesel. Would be nice to not have to buy a mew head(s) - but we are prepared either way.
Cant wait to get the truck back and tow the camper!
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Fairbury IL
Help!
Got the truck back yesterday... Both heads were cracked badly.
. Both heads replaced. Head studs, 4" turbo back, SCT X3, etc etc etc. Truck runs STRONG!
However, Coolant Temp is still high at 215-220 after 20 minutes or so of driving. EOT runs about the same, just a degree or two higher than ECT.
Noticed that i can get the temps to drop a couple of degrees if i blast the heater (which blows hot air.)
Trying to figure out next step.
The fact that i can drop coolant temps just by turning on the heater has me a touch confused. There is so much **** around the radiator that you really cant see it to see if the fins are clogged up with crap or anything. Would it be worth my time to yank the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop for a cleaning/rodding?
Or...? How else would i test/check? Should the bottom radiator hose be 'cool' (indicating the radiator is actually cooling the coolant sufficiently?
Holy hell the truck frickin RIPS now. Black stripes if I want.. And its on the street tune... Pretty sure I will never load the 'race' tune.
Got the truck back yesterday... Both heads were cracked badly.
. Both heads replaced. Head studs, 4" turbo back, SCT X3, etc etc etc. Truck runs STRONG!However, Coolant Temp is still high at 215-220 after 20 minutes or so of driving. EOT runs about the same, just a degree or two higher than ECT.
Noticed that i can get the temps to drop a couple of degrees if i blast the heater (which blows hot air.)
Trying to figure out next step.
The fact that i can drop coolant temps just by turning on the heater has me a touch confused. There is so much **** around the radiator that you really cant see it to see if the fins are clogged up with crap or anything. Would it be worth my time to yank the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop for a cleaning/rodding?
Or...? How else would i test/check? Should the bottom radiator hose be 'cool' (indicating the radiator is actually cooling the coolant sufficiently?
Holy hell the truck frickin RIPS now. Black stripes if I want.. And its on the street tune... Pretty sure I will never load the 'race' tune.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Glad it's running well! RCD has pretty good rep, surprised they let it go with the temps up a bit like that. Maybe the equiptment they were reading temps with was showing lower numbers. ECT/EOT close on cold soak? Could be thermostat, water pump, dirty radiator (inside or outside). I'd start with the easy stuff first or Give RCD a call and see what they suggest.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Fairbury IL
I was sort of presuming that they never drove it long enough really to let the temps get that high. It took a solid 15-20 minutes to get that high.
Tstat is new (replaced 3 weeks ago when first diagnosing.)
Yes... ECT and EOT ARE within a degree or two when the truck has sat over night. ECT rises faster than EOT, but not by much. Once the truck gets to operating temp, the EOT is a few degrees higher. Both temps run a few degrees cooler when I blast the heat.
I do have an email out to RCD, but they are not back in the shop until Monday, so I wanted to pick the brains of FTE as well.
My first thoughts were water pump, but the thig is definately circulating coolant. Was just maybe looking for a way to check the radiator efficiency (maybe by using heat gun on top rad hose them bottom rad hose to check for difference in temps..?)
Thanks!
Zach
Tstat is new (replaced 3 weeks ago when first diagnosing.)
Yes... ECT and EOT ARE within a degree or two when the truck has sat over night. ECT rises faster than EOT, but not by much. Once the truck gets to operating temp, the EOT is a few degrees higher. Both temps run a few degrees cooler when I blast the heat.
I do have an email out to RCD, but they are not back in the shop until Monday, so I wanted to pick the brains of FTE as well.
My first thoughts were water pump, but the thig is definately circulating coolant. Was just maybe looking for a way to check the radiator efficiency (maybe by using heat gun on top rad hose them bottom rad hose to check for difference in temps..?)
Thanks!
Zach
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Fairbury IL
Verified ECT AND EOT are close with truck not having ran in 10 hours. ECT = 75. EOT = 76.
Can i check the radiator by checking temps with infared temp gun aimed at top hose and then at bottom hose? What type of temp difference would be 'normal?'
Can i check the radiator by checking temps with infared temp gun aimed at top hose and then at bottom hose? What type of temp difference would be 'normal?'
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,950
Likes: 510
From: Foothills, CA
I'll add a couple more ideas to Rusty's: Is fan operating correctly? Is your degas cap fairly new? I'd worry about the water pump on an '03 before the radiator...
And I'd actually assume the opposite, and that RCD likely would have run the dog snot out of it after that kind of work. Last thing a good shop wants is you getting a few miles down the road and having something come apart...
And I'd actually assume the opposite, and that RCD likely would have run the dog snot out of it after that kind of work. Last thing a good shop wants is you getting a few miles down the road and having something come apart...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Fairbury IL
Thanks for the reply.
Fan is operating correctly and coming on STRONG at 219+.
Not sure when degas cap was last replaced... Not in the past 9 months anyway. The system does hold pressure, as there was still pressure when I removed the cap this morning while checking things.
I've read about the 03 water pumps. Fack.
Guess I will wait to talk to RCD monday morning.
Fan is operating correctly and coming on STRONG at 219+.
Not sure when degas cap was last replaced... Not in the past 9 months anyway. The system does hold pressure, as there was still pressure when I removed the cap this morning while checking things.
I've read about the 03 water pumps.
Fack. Guess I will wait to talk to RCD monday morning.