I have a f250 with 36" tires
It rubs in a far left turn I don't care
Came with 2" block in back from factory.

I want a 4" lift all around.

I figured just a 4" front kit, a steering stabilizer too
And a 5.5" block in back for the 6" lift ill sacrifice lol
They have tapered and nontapered blocks for the back, what's the difference? Would the block be as safe as safe as new springs? Would a 3" helper spring/add a leaf be just as good? Would the sprigs keep the f250 strength

There is NOTHING, besides the pos potus I hate more then a truck that squats badly in the back.

Now I won't be hauling two tons or anything heavy but if I do fill it with gravel or mulch or a few concrete bags, will it hold? I know I know "lifted trucks can't do as much blah blah I'm not hauling campers.

Also would I need new pitman arms and extended uhm..crap brain fart...

 

The tapered block helps keep the drive line angled to the rear axle properly. Less stress on U-joints. I bought a 3" add a leaf kit and I'm totally happy with it. Tuff Country I believe.

 

http://rockymountainsusp.com/fd4_f2_350.htm

I didn't know my axle was called ifs makes me want to do a front axle swap lol

And did you do that in the front? I have around an inch maybe two before my front tire is in the well, I don't want that

I'll try and dig up a picture of my beast

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...t-pic-196.html

#2939

Specifically the first picture with the silver truck in it.

Btw you have a sweet looking truck!

 

I put the add a leaf in front and back. Worked great with the tapered blocks. Thanks for compliment. The truck is even better in person. Like brand new.

 

Wait, did you put a block on too? In my state you can't put blocks on the front
And on tough country they only had add a leads for the rear, unless you just called em and asked?

 

If you want a 4 inch lift, the cheapest way is with a kit. You will need;

Lift pivot brackets for the front beams

Lift springs for the front

Longer shocks

Dropped pitman arm for the steering box

4 inch blocks for the rear which will be added to the blocks you already have.

You can haul weight with it. What you will notice is a little bit of axle wrap and some wheel hop in the back if the going gets really tough. Normally though you will not notice much difference. I have a 4 inch lift on mine, and I have the regular lift blocks, no tapered blocks.

 

What franklin said below is my response. Blocks were only in rear. It was a complete kit.

 

Axle wrap? Did you mean warp? What exactly is that? I've heard it before but never experienced it so I've kinda forgotten what it is.

Do you all recommend the cheap rough country or a decent one with another grand ?

 

I don't have any recomendations, the lift was already installed on my truck.

I meant axle wrap. Have you ever seen traction bars and know what they do? They keep the springs from twisting or wrapping on a hard launch.

When you go to take off, the wheels start turning, but the truck resists moving. So the leaf spring twists a little bit, the forward half will curve up, the rearward half will curve down. It's not very noticeable on a stock truck.

On a truck with blocks, the rearend is 4 inches farther away from the springs, and this gives it more leverage to twist the springs, and you get more of the axle wrap syndrome.

There are several ways to lift the rear, all have some drawbacks;

1. Lift blocks, drawback is axle wrap.

2. Lift springs, drawback is a very stiff ride

3. Shackle reversal, drawback is it messes up your pinion angle(this is what the tapered blocks are for) and the wheel can be a little off center in the wheelwell when you are done.

 

Oh okay thank you, never would have really thought a straight six would get that much torque, but I am planning on a 2barrel and headers.

I actually thought they were to prevent the axle from actually twisting from the torque, seen a truck turn the rear axle like the differential was a pivot point, 1800hp from a dead stop on slicks will do that tho

Would it be safe to out a 2" and a 4" block on it? Just seems like a weak spot.

What about steering stabilizers? I know alot of people out them on but why? Do they really help? I already feel like I'm in a big go cart it's so nimble.

Also I'm not looking for a cheap way to lift, I mean I'm not going to put a 3k lift on, that's a 150% of my trucks buying price.
And alot of kits don't come with shocks but they will have four little shocks in the picture? Do they mean springs?

Another has a crossmember? Where does that cross at? Lol

Do you guys recommend a sway bar? This is my daily driver until I get a new truck in a decade, fresh 300 so I'm good except for maintenance.

Would y'all recommend new rubber throughout the drive system and all components easily gotten to?
Sorry for all the questions, first real truck I get to play with all my others were add a leafed work trucks