I see guzzle ran the 3/8 pipe all the way through the foot past that **** in the pickup with the red valve? what is that **** for? I thought it was a check valve, I see that it is not.
picture is guzzles


I allready did the the harpoon mod, and the foot was broken and falling apart, the pieces of it crumbled in my hand. so I put a new replacement in. There was some sediment in the tank, I fished out what I could and put it all back together. I made it 20 mile before the sediment or whatever it was in the tank plugged up the screen in the foot. I put 32 gallons in the tank, shortbed, I could only get mid 20s in before. So now my tank has 33+ gallons in it. I am going to delete the mixing tank and screens and replace the supply line with rubber hose and install the filter and head in the link below (I allready had it for another project that did not happen.)

how bad am I if I just put the new auxillary filter in and roll with it? I do not have enough gas cans to hold that much fuel, plus all the time to siphon it then what? mop it all up with rags, wipe it all down, not to mention I don't know that I could reach the ends of the tank to get it completely clean anyway?

The truck ran ok before it had a slight stumble/miss that a new fuel filter cured, the old filter was nasty and half full of water. There just was no foot to get plugged so it all went to the filter on the engine, and I am sure I stirred it all up as I tried to fish the parts of the foot out.

link to the new inline filter I will install and of course I will keep the fuel bowl one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pr...4/media/images

 

You could drive it till low enough to drop the tank easy, but if its not running right I'd siphon out the fuel somehow and get at it. If siphoning is not an option lift the bed to get at the tank. That's maybe more complicated but it will get you there.

Delete the white cannister like Guzzle did. Do not install that fancy filter yet. Put in a plain fuel strainer like a Baldwin BF7725 or Hebmuller W0133-1641441 before the pump for a tank or two then swap in the filter. That way the strainer will take the bulk of the crap out of the tank. Sounds like you have plenty in there.

The tubing goes past the red duckbill to prevent a leak. The duckbills often leak and introduce air. Major goal on these mods is to remove air from the fuel before it gets to the injectors.

 

If I recall correctly, the duckbill was there to provide an alternative pickup in case the screen got totally plugged. This is why you want to tube to be inserted past it so as stated, there is no chance of introducing air when the tank is low.

Regarding your new filter you bought, be careful of the micron rating you use. Yours is showing a 2 micron filter but I went with a 32 micron filter. Napa / WIX 3121 Filter Remember this is a pre filter so you want to make sure you don't create to much resistance prior to the pump.

I am not an expert on this but there has been talk about whether to use a setup like this (like I have also) or just an inline screen.

 

good point on the microns, on the perma cool website it shows 5 gpm for my current 2 micron filter but in the instructions it says 30 gpm? anyway I found a napa 3239 that does 32 microns I will try to pick one up if not there are several 10 micron ones, both the 10 and 32 micron ones show 10-15 gpm from the same manufacturer.

one of those little plastic filters would be clogged in 10 miles I think, that pickup screen was completely gelled over. the full size filters will have a much higher surface area to accept gunk. the full size filters are pretty much the same price as the little plastic ones too.

 

Many of us use wix 33972 clear plastic & diesel rated. I also keep a spare in the glove box.
You do not want too small of a micron rating here.

 

well its all back together and running! I went with the 30 micron spin on filter. I think I will replace it in 20 miles or so and then in another 100 miles and then hopefully it will all be back to normal I guess I don't really have to drive it I could just let it idle 20 minutes for the same effect right, if not more fuel filtered.

 

If you have a bunch of sediment in the bottom of the tank, you want to drive it around, maybe on some dirt roads to stir it all up. If you just let it idle, it would only pull in the sediment from around the pickup tube.

At least that is what I think would happen.

 

If you still have crud in the tank, I'd drop it one more time (after you've used and drained your fuel) to get it sparkly clean. I dropped mine 4 times because of experimentation... I got real fast at it.

The spin-on filters are OK... but I would urge anybody who has one of these to install a fuel pressure gauge. My gauge told me to dump the spin-on, but I have big nozzles.

5, 10, 15, and 30 GPM? No way. Maybe with 100 PSI on one side and 0 PSI on the other. One needs to be careful when reading these flow specifications. In other words, read the fine print. We're talking a slight vacuum and everything will be Gallons Per Hour. I'm not saying you or I can't use the correct spin-on filter, but again... we're back to the fuel pressure gauge with anything more than a strainer.

That being said... going back to my first gauge order, I would have included the fuel pressure gauge no matter what.

You mentioned "rubber" hose. You need fuel injector hose rated for diesel (and fuel injector clamps) to prevent hose collapse and assure an air-tight seal... this stuff is very expensive.

 

"The spin-on filters are OK... but I would urge anybody who has one of these to install a fuel pressure gauge."

Yes thanks Tugly for making me spend more money!

I have the AeroForce Interceptor scan gauge with fuel sending unit ordered.

 

a fuel pressure guage is a great idea. that way I can tell if a 2 versus 30 micron filter makes a diffrence as well as when filters are getting plugged. these spin on filters should not have much resistance, they are made for high volume low pressure typically with a large surface area, the output is 1 inch in diameter. The instruction manual that came with my filter head setup shows it on the suction side of the pump too.

 

[quote=Chipworkz;13144784I have the AeroForce Interceptor scan gauge with fuel sending unit ordered.[/quote]

Very cool.

That's what I said... until I punched it with my shiny new fuel pressure gauge. It was squeegee time for my drawers. My pressure dropped to about 15-20 PSI, then I yanked the spin-on and installed a strainer to keep my pressure above 45 PSI at WOT.

 

wow thats a serious drop, what was the diffrence between WOT and idle pressures, I don't want to add another guage in the truck ($$$) so I was just going to add it under the hood.

 

It's money, but it's like adding an oil pressure idiot light to a gasser. This is one of those things that our age of truck really should have, based on all my "experiments" and input from experts.

My fuel pressure sits at 65 PSI (more or less) at idle. I can't make anything happen in the driveway, but introducing Matt to Pedal in gear on the road (high RPMs under load) can rest the needle on 45-50 PSI. All of this is with a stock fuel pump, and mine was replaced last fall... but I have 160/100 injectors with a heavy tune making 375-400 RWHP. If I had bigger injectors, I'd need a bigger pump.

If the fuel system was robust with rare problems, that's a different truck. The Superduty 7.3L fuel system has a very bad reputation (deservedly so). Look around the market and you will find a plethora of performance products pertaining to petroleum on our rigs. Fuel rail crossovers... Hutch mod... fuel pressure regulators... "Air Dog"? A totally stock truck with a Hutch mod won't experience anything like I have... but a tuned truck? Without a Hutch mod? With the health of your injectors in the ante, do you want a pair of dice... or a fuel pressure gauge?

 

I just stopped by here to ask Tugly exactly what model number ISSPRO EV2 Fuel Pressure gauge he got and if that's what he would buy again (as well as what model ISSPRO EV2 EGT gauge he got and if that's what he would buy again). I think I would like analog for these two gauges. I clicked in his signature but the model numbers were not listed.)

BTW, just another example, Racor PS120 diesel fuel strainer pre-pump on frame rail. And BTW, it works. (I am not starting this vehicle until I replace the steel tank.)

 

Fuel pressure gauge [LINK]

The new part number for the Pyro is R17021 and I don't know why it changed. I do know this: The faces are compatible with our Ford dashes (with the red needle) and all of mine have the LED alarm at the bottom. Make sure you get the alarm type, and I would suggest either getting the interface, or have a friend <ahem> with the interface set your alarms the way you like them.

If I were to do it over? I'd go ISSPRO EV2 dual Pyros, Fuel Pressure, and Boost... then get some form of scan gauge for everything else. I really like the faces on the Autometer Ford gauges... but I don't know about the ease of install, the meter action, backlight color and intensity, programmability, or availability of the gauge ranges I like. I never looked that deep into Autometer, but these are all things to take into consideration when shopping at this price level.