Fleabay! Apparently the seller has had them for a while and just knocked the price down prior to the listing ending. Price was $160...knocked down to $71+shipping. T94T-6379-AH is the number for the kit.

 

OK, John. I just did my pump. 2 hour job with the right tools. You said take lots of pictures, so I did. My pump was definitely needing to be replaced. Only symptom I had was the romps on cold starts. I have eliminated everything else but injectors, and this is just a little cheaper than injector work/replacement.

I used the vice grips on the fly wheel method to get the damper bolt off and to torque it down when putting it back on.

You can see the face of the pump was worn. Many grooves worn into it and the inner and outer rotors. The photo of the rotors is too large and would not upload. The face of the front cover of the engine where the gerotors contact was unmarked and in great shape.

The grooves were actually pretty deep:




Here is the damper wear ring. $14 from Ford, and they actually had it in stock.

Here is the tool I got to remove the old one and put the new one on. Without this tool, I don't see any practical way to get the old one off. It is very low profile and really stuck on there. The one I pulled off had a groove worn in it from the old pump. Hence the reason you need to replace it when pulling the damper and putting on a new pump.


Side by side, you can see the groove in the old ring.


Re-install of the ring is as simple as this:


There are specs for the gerotors when sitting inside the pump. If you pull the pump, lay both the gerotors inside the pump face and lay a metal straight edge across the pump, you should not be able to get a feeler gauge bigger than .003 between the straight edge and the INNER gerotor. I could get a .004 feeler in there easily but not an .005. So, my pump was outside of tolerances allowed. Ford/International say that anything over .003 in wear can cause long cranks before starting or starting and then stalling with difficulty re-starting.

When re-installing the pump, slide the inner gerotor over the drive shaft. Mine took some wiggling to get it on there. Then put the outer gerotor inside the pump face. Next, line up the dowel pins to the pump face, and slide it over the inner gerotor and crankshaft. Torque the bolts down (20ft/lbs) and get the damper ready. Put a bead of RTV in the keyway slot for the crankshaft. This will keep it from leaking later on (like you have now, John!), and Ford calls for this to be done. You will find the bolt that holds the damper on will not reach the threads while holding the damper on the crank (with key way lined up with key). Some guys are buying longer bolts and using them to pull the damper toward the face of the pump a little before switching over to the original bolt and finishing the seating process with it. The washer that goes on the damper is REALLY thick. I just grabbed a big flat washer and put it on there (I already had it in my bucket-o-spare bolts). The bolt was able to reach the threads using this thinner washer, and I used the flat washer to allow the damper to be pulled in some (maybe 3/8") before removing the bolt and putting that really thick washer back on and finishing the install. Here is a pic of the two washers:


Yes, that little bitty distance is all that keeps that bolt from reaching the threads in the crank shaft. If you have any questions, please ask!

 

Once you get the damper back on, put your belt back on. Then put the fan and shroud back in (helps to have three arms for that) and re-install the degas bottle. All done.

 

You don't happen to have the dimensions of the install tool do you. I'll never get it here and I could make something up to do the job with a little luck

 

You are talking about the wear ring tool? I can take some pics with measurements. I used a CAC tube clamp to hold it together while I tapped the old wear ring off with a punch and ball peen hammer. The manual shows to use some type of secondary Ford tool to pull the old ring off...kinda like a harmonic balancer puller. You could also use a slide hammer. I need to get a brass drift so I don't tear up the inside face of the tool on future work.

 

Yes mike the wear ring tool. Thanks for the part number for the wear ring I ordered it today I should have it in a few days.

 

John, I installed a gauge so I can always know what my engine oil pressure is at a glance without hooking up the computer.



I already had it from using it to see my fuel PSI before I got my gauges. Same exact fitting for the fuel bowl and HPOP plug. VERY low cost option to know what oil pressure is, and you can remove it in 20 seconds and put the plug back in. The Melling is putting out 43 psi on start-up.

 

I finally got around to installing mine last week. Thanks for all the pics they were a big help. I couldn't find the wear ring tool or anyone willing to install it for me so I'm just using the old one. I couldn't measure any wear on it so hopefully it will be fine. If not I'll have to buy a new damper.