Oil Leak
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
Oil Leak
I've been searching for my oil leak for the last few days, My best guess is it's the front main seal. Anything else leak in that area that I could mistake for a leak there? Any other work I should do when I'm in there?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Oil cooler to timing cover gasket
Oil cooler orings
Ps pump/lines
Oil pan (pretty sure mine IS leaking after all.. more on that later)
Timing cover to block..
Best bet is super soak it with simple green... let it do its magic... then rinse, repeat till you can see for sure where its coming from...
If it is the front main.. its no biggie... you will need a pulley puller for the damper.
I used a block of 2x4 and a deadblow to set the new seal in my housing when i did mine...
A press would be better tho... wouldnt do it without a press for a customers truck but on mine... i almost look for excuses to pull my engine...
Just clean clean clean and she will show you where she's bleeding...
Oil cooler orings
Ps pump/lines
Oil pan (pretty sure mine IS leaking after all.. more on that later)
Timing cover to block..
Best bet is super soak it with simple green... let it do its magic... then rinse, repeat till you can see for sure where its coming from...
If it is the front main.. its no biggie... you will need a pulley puller for the damper.
I used a block of 2x4 and a deadblow to set the new seal in my housing when i did mine...
A press would be better tho... wouldnt do it without a press for a customers truck but on mine... i almost look for excuses to pull my engine...
Just clean clean clean and she will show you where she's bleeding...
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
Oil cooler to timing cover gasket
Oil cooler orings
Ps pump/lines
Oil pan (pretty sure mine IS leaking after all.. more on that later)
Timing cover to block..
Best bet is super soak it with simple green... let it do its magic... then rinse, repeat till you can see for sure where its coming from...
If it is the front main.. its no biggie... you will need a pulley puller for the damper.
I used a block of 2x4 and a deadblow to set the new seal in my housing when i did mine...
A press would be better tho... wouldnt do it without a press for a customers truck but on mine... i almost look for excuses to pull my engine...
Just clean clean clean and she will show you where she's bleeding...
Oil cooler orings
Ps pump/lines
Oil pan (pretty sure mine IS leaking after all.. more on that later)
Timing cover to block..
Best bet is super soak it with simple green... let it do its magic... then rinse, repeat till you can see for sure where its coming from...
If it is the front main.. its no biggie... you will need a pulley puller for the damper.
I used a block of 2x4 and a deadblow to set the new seal in my housing when i did mine...
A press would be better tho... wouldnt do it without a press for a customers truck but on mine... i almost look for excuses to pull my engine...
Just clean clean clean and she will show you where she's bleeding...
It's not the oil cooler or the power steering, and I'm 90% it's not the oil pan. I've cleaned it with simple green trying to be positive where it was coming from. I thought I had some oil in the valley but after I cleaned it up yesterday it was clean and dry today. My leak appears to be coming from behind the pulley. I'm going to clean it up again tomorrow concentrating on the bottom of the engine and and see how things look.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
Well my leak is back it went away for a couple of months, but apparently it was a temporary seal up.
Nothing from the top. The CPS is dry. It looks like it is coming from the bottom bolt. I've looked around and from my reading I'm guessing it's the front main seal or the low pressure oil pump.
Any Suggestions?
Nothing from the top. The CPS is dry. It looks like it is coming from the bottom bolt. I've looked around and from my reading I'm guessing it's the front main seal or the low pressure oil pump.
Any Suggestions?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
If you haven't done the ELC upgrade or haven't changed your coolant for a while and planned too now would be a good time. You'll need to drain the radiator to pull it. With the radiator out you can use an impact to pull the pulley bolt and everything is much easier to get to. If your coolant doesn't need changing then it will just be a tighter area to work with the radiator in. Like mentioned above you'll need a puller for the pulley. If it turns out to be the LPOP a new Melling is only about $75 and comes with new cover and seals. If its a front crank seal -F4TZ6700A- its about 20 bucks.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
If you haven't done the ELC upgrade or haven't changed your coolant for a while and planned too now would be a good time. You'll need to drain the radiator to pull it. With the radiator out you can use an impact to pull the pulley bolt and everything is much easier to get to. If your coolant doesn't need changing then it will just be a tighter area to work with the radiator in. Like mentioned above you'll need a puller for the pulley. If it turns out to be the LPOP a new Melling is only about $75 and comes with new cover and seals. If its a front crank seal -F4TZ6700A- its about 20 bucks.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
John, no need to pull the radiator. You can get at everything with just the fan and shroud removed. Heck, many have replaced their LPOPs with the fan and shroud still in the truck! I am going to replace my LPOP in the very near future, since it should be arriving tomorrow. I got it for $90 (Melling). Your books cover this procedure very well.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Ontario, Canada
John, no need to pull the radiator. You can get at everything with just the fan and shroud removed. Heck, many have replaced their LPOPs with the fan and shroud still in the truck! I am going to replace my LPOP in the very near future, since it should be arriving tomorrow. I got it for $90 (Melling). Your books cover this procedure very well.
Great news mike. Take lots of pictures. Where did you find one for $90? Did you have any problems finding the dampener wear ring?
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Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
I got it at Advance auto (shipped to my house) with a 15% coupon. AAP15OFF is the coupon code. regular price was $106...free shipping to the door. I have not gone to buy the damper wear ring yet. That is an item that many overlook, by the way. It is supposed to be replaced any time you pull the damper per the manual.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
I got it at Advance auto (shipped to my house) with a 15% coupon. AAP15OFF is the coupon code. regular price was $106...free shipping to the door. I have not gone to buy the damper wear ring yet. That is an item that many overlook, by the way. It is supposed to be replaced any time you pull the damper per the manual.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
The strangest part of my oil leak is if I wash the Ex once a week it doesn't leak. I'm starting to think it just doesn't like to be dirty and gets mad at me and starts leaking oil.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 6
From: Marseilles IL
It's not too hard to do and no need to pull the radiator. I wish I knew about the wear ring when I did mine. I would just put a Melling pump in if that seal is leaking, you will have to pull the pump off anyway. Here is a pic of mine when I installed my Melling pump.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
I just picked up the Ford damper service tools for $85 shipped...that includes the long bolts to pull the damper in on install and the removal/replacement tools for the seals and wear ring. I'm happy...!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
here's the thread I followed when I replaced mine.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9248539
I didn't mean you had to remove the radiator, just that if a coolant change was on your "to do" list now would be a good time.
With the radiator out I was able to tap the balancer with my extra large dead blow hammer and get it on far enough that I did not need the extra long bolt.
My oil press used to be slow to come up but it jumps up now.
MIke, were did you find the tooling?
Thanks,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9248539
I didn't mean you had to remove the radiator, just that if a coolant change was on your "to do" list now would be a good time.
With the radiator out I was able to tap the balancer with my extra large dead blow hammer and get it on far enough that I did not need the extra long bolt.
My oil press used to be slow to come up but it jumps up now.
MIke, were did you find the tooling?
Thanks,