Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

6.9l cooalant refill problem.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 04-27-2013, 08:25 PM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7
Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
6.9l cooalant refill problem.

Alright So i replaced my water pump, tstat, got my radiator cleaned out and it's all hooked back up. i Had done this last week and started to fill my radiator, filled it to the top i put in my water first i got through 4 gallons and 1 gallon of coolant, so 6 gallons total. then my water pump started leaking frmo the gasket. so i took itg all off and re did it, this time, yes i still have a leak from the gasket. but theres literally nothing i can do about it, i scraped both sides clean, sand papered both sides, put sealant on the water pump ALL the way around, stuck the gasket to it, sealant on the engine, stuck the water pump on with 2 bolts at the top just to get it to seat and go around at all the holes and make sure everything was lined up and that that gasket had not slipped out of place, everything looked good. all my bolts in, lined up, but now i have 2 problems.
1.) my leak. last time it started leaking before i even started the truck and it was just dribbling out water beading it up really fast in 2 places and dripping really good. this time it's seeping out in 1 spot but it's black? almost looke like oil, i have a pic if someone needs to see i actually havea video, but it's like oil really. when i drained the coolant there wasn't any oil in it


2.) i'm guessing why my coolant level isn't dropping is that there was too much left in the engine from last week and probably left in the radiator too because i only took off the water pump this time, and a good bit came out from the cooling jackets behind the pump and what was in the pump and the heater hose attached but still, not 4 gallons, so i guess i need to drain my radiator? and would anyone suggest just putting in a gallong of coolant and a gallon of water until it's full because we don't really know how much of which is in it at this point?
 
  #2  
Old 04-27-2013, 08:35 PM
Fordidipower's Avatar
Fordidipower
Fordidipower is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: aouth east idaho
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you live somewhere warm I think just adding 1:1 until full is fine but if it gets cold where your at I personally wouldn't. I've seen a lot of cracked blocks and broken heads because the wrong ratio was used.
 
  #3  
Old 04-27-2013, 08:39 PM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7
Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
it doesn't get really cold, i'll probably end up draining my radiator, that should give me enough of a balance if i do 1:1 until full right?
How can i tell if my coolant is circulating? it seems to be circulating by lookin in the radiator but idk how to tell. my heat gets really hot, my heater hoses are hot, my rad. gets hot. my upper hose gets hot. so i'm guessing it's circulating? only thing i can't figure out is my stupid leak. i mean i was extra careful this time. took all precautions, that particular area where its leaking didn't even give me any trouble lining it up or anything. so i'm just baffled. and why it looks like oil i have no clue.
 
  #4  
Old 04-27-2013, 09:15 PM
airdale94's Avatar
airdale94
airdale94 is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Topeka,Ks.
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm not familiar with the particulars of a water pump on a 6.9 but if the bolt holes aren't blind, they go into a water jacket, they will need sealer on them. As far as the gasket, what I like to do is coat both sides with Ultra Black silicone then snug up the bolts just enough till silicone starts to ooze out then let it dry, 4hrs. Then tighten them down. If you have heat and your upper radiator hose is hot, then your thermostat is open.
 

Last edited by airdale94; 04-27-2013 at 09:16 PM. Reason: add
  #5  
Old 04-27-2013, 09:26 PM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7
Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Okay so Tstat is working. coolant is flowing. ugh. idk what to do about this leak. no way i'm taking everything back down. i mean I took every precaution this time and did it by the book. It should not be leaking.And there's no other way to fix the leak right?
What do you mean it the bolt holes aren't blind?
 
  #6  
Old 04-27-2013, 09:27 PM
Fordidipower's Avatar
Fordidipower
Fordidipower is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: aouth east idaho
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Turn your heat on. If its hot your circulating
 
  #7  
Old 04-27-2013, 11:38 PM
airdale94's Avatar
airdale94
airdale94 is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Topeka,Ks.
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If the holes are blind that means they're not through. Stick a small pick into the hole and if it bottoms out then it's blind. If goes clear through like into a water jacket or oil galley, then you will need to use sealant on the bolt threads.
 
  #8  
Old 04-28-2013, 12:06 AM
racer30's Avatar
racer30
racer30 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: western Oregon
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just did my water pump on my 7.3 I found that the instructions say all the bolts are blind except the 4 shorter bolts that are into the front engine plate "kept Nuts" 2 on top of the pump and 2 below. you need to seal the threads on the 4 bolts or you may get water into the block or oil could possibly leak out through the bolt. If you had the front plate off the first time around you could have disturbed the seal of that plate when you put the pump back on the second time. When I did my front plate I sealed it to the block and used short bolts in all the holes to get a good seal. I left it that way 1 day then removed the pump bolts and installed the pump. this way I didn't disturb the seal on the plate. Just my 2 cents ....Good luck....
 
  #9  
Old 04-28-2013, 07:49 AM
Eallend7's Avatar
Eallend7
Eallend7 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yeah i guarantee it's that ti ming seal pushing oil. and that would almost guarantee me that it's pushing it into the coolant. greaaaaat. should have just took the stupid cover off and changed it. People kept saying it would be some sort of huge deal, oh well, better stick with my instincts next time.
Good thing she aint a daily driver. cause it's gonna be a while before i take EVERYTHING off for a 3rd time and then dig deeper into the engine.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dcassidy
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
09-21-2009 08:58 PM
geoaigel
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
13
01-04-2009 11:01 PM
ddetrick78
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
3
04-24-2006 09:27 PM
timtyler
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
8
10-03-2005 06:43 PM
jcheyn
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
5
05-10-2000 03:57 PM



Quick Reply: 6.9l cooalant refill problem.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:51 AM.