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to chime in - I bought my truck with a slow started a few years back. it still started, but would crank really sloooow. it would always start after ~5 seconds of cranking in warm weather, but it'd take a few cranks sometimes in the cold. I replaced the batteries and it was slightly better, but not as much as i'd hoped. then one day the starter just died completely - wouldn't turn at all. I pulled it out and used jumper cables on a 12V battery to test it out. it wouldn't spin at all even with power to the output side of the solenoid. so, I replaced it with a new Super-Duty style one and the engine spins real fast now and the truck starts in less than 1 second every time - hot or cold - though the new GPs probably play a big part, too.
so, long story short - it could very well be just a bad starter in your new/used truck.
BUT - I suspect that bad glow plugs play a role in the demise of starters in that cold weather then requires longer cranking, which puts more wear and tear on the starter. so, once you get that sucker starting well in the summer, do yourself a favor and check those glowplugs before winter time!
Oh it did "turn over" I thought, by hand. I just threw a wrench on the front and moved it back and forth, didn't TURN it over. When I say turn over I don't mean I turned the thing one or two complete revolutions. I just watched the balancer and saw it move a little bit. So I assumed it was free. But it damn sure isn't. I put a battery in there and it just said..."CLICK" I mean I guess I could take the starter in to have it tested but hey I know this truck is a scrap truck now. LOL
Put a socket on the crank pulley bolt and see if you can turn it over with a breaker bar or ratchet. You won't be able to turn it over literally "by hand" as these engine have compression ratios in excess of 20:1, but you can't just assume that because the starter doesn't spin the engine that the engine is locked up either. It could be something as minor as a bad starter or starter solenoid, poor connection on a cable, etc.
I may try pulling the injectors, but damn those dudes are in there good! LOL I'll mess with it a little more. When I have time this weekend. But I'm not going to get my hopes up. HAHAHAHAHA
Why would you pull the injectors? Just FYI, if you pull them, you should really replace the o-rings, which is going to set you back about $7-8 an injector. If you're concerned about turning the engine over with the compression, just pull the glow plugs. They're easier anyway and there are no o-rings to FUBAR. If it were me, I would just put a socket and breaker bar on the crank shaft pulley and lean on it a little. It should turn over that way if the engine isn't seized.
Why would you pull the injectors? Just FYI, if you pull them, you should really replace the o-rings, which is going to set you back about $7-8 an injector. If you're concerned about turning the engine over with the compression, just pull the glow plugs. They're easier anyway and there are no o-rings to FUBAR. If it were me, I would just put a socket and breaker bar on the crank shaft pulley and lean on it a little. It should turn over that way if the engine isn't seized.
What Nate said. Even with great compression, you can turn these motors over by hand. Just use a large 1/2" breaker bar and a 15/16 socket IIRC. Thats how I spun the torgue converter to get to all the bolts.
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