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2000 expedition 5.4liter won't start. Here's what happened. Went in to store came out exp won't start, lights and all gauges work fine turn the key and nothing. When I tried to crank it the lights didn't dim at all which makes me think it is a problem before the firewall mounted relay. I'm just not sure where to look. I did remove the starter and take it to autozone and it tested fine so I re installed it and ban it cranked, until I turned it off...now it won't turn over at all and still the lights don't dim when trying to crank. Any ideas?
2000 expedition 5.4liter won't start. Here's what happened. Went in to store came out exp won't start, lights and all gauges work fine turn the key and nothing. When I tried to crank it the lights didn't dim at all which makes me think it is a problem before the firewall mounted relay. I'm just not sure where to look. I did remove the starter and take it to autozone and it tested fine so I re installed it and ban it cranked, until I turned it off...now it won't turn over at all and still the lights don't dim when trying to crank. Any ideas?
Thanks
Jason
You might ck your positive cable. I've had these go bad to create the affect of a bad battery, yet a strong enough source to show gauges and lights working properly. I would also start/jump the vehicle and watch your charging gauge. I have had alternator brushes and regulators work intermittently to draw on the battery enough to affect starting.
It could be the DTRS down on the side of the tranny. The neutral safety switch is built into this sensor.
This was my first thought. Try starting it in any gear other than Park to see if it will turn over. BE CAREFUL DOING THIS! If it starts in gear it will most likely lurch forward or backward depending on what gear you have it in. Also try having the gear selector between gears or go as far as actively moving the selector while have the key turned to start to see if it tries to start anywhere except Park an Neutral.
If it starts in any gear other than Park or Neutral that narrows it down to this sensor. At least that is the way my deductive reasoning sees it.
If it starts in any gear other than Park or Neutral that narrows it down to this sensor. At least that is the way my deductive reasoning sees it.
You're correct IF the sensor is just misaligned. If however the contacts inside the sensor are fried and do not ever make contact, then this test will not yield any results.
You're correct IF the sensor is just misaligned. If however the contacts inside the sensor are fried and do not ever make contact, then this test will not yield any results.
I'm not sure if I explained that the problem is intermittent, If I go out there now it may or may not crank no rhyme or reason. I won't be able to check anything until this weekend but I will post the results of what I find. Thanks for all the input.
You have a bad cable or a solenoid. When you turn the key and it doesn’t start is there a CLICK or a small click. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o> </o> If you hear a big click the solenoid id good bad starter.<o></o> If you hear a small click and no Big click it the solenoid<o></o> No small click.<o></o> <o> </o> State with your key. Where the key ring is there is a little square. Make sure it is there. It has a RFID to enable the start. If that is there, go change the starter relay or check cables. <o></o>
What did the problem end up being? My 00 Exp 5.4 just died on the wife tonight... She is NOT happy about that! Just did a battery one week ago. Tried to jump it with the SuperDuty and also tried to short the solenoid, same result.
What did the problem end up being? My 00 Exp 5.4 just died on the wife tonight... She is NOT happy about that! Just did a battery one week ago. Tried to jump it with the SuperDuty and also tried to short the solenoid, same result.
Not sure if you got it started by jumping it but if you did, use a volt meter to test your alternator. You will find between 13.8 - 14.2 volts charging on the back terminal on your alternator. You can also check at the battery but you will find a volt loss due to resistance between the alt and batt, showing about 13.4 volts.
If your alt brushes are worn, you might show intermittent charging, fooling you to think it's working okay.
I would also expect the new batt to show approx 12.8 volts or so without running. If its new and showing some loss, the batt is trying to feed the engine draw without being resupplied by the alt. if you can't jump the solenoid with that new batt, alternator/regulator is probably bad.
Thanks for the reply. I did not get chance to look at it last night. I will be able to play around with it Weds. Left it in the parking lot for now. I will check those things you mentioned. Battery and connections are good, alt and starter could be bad, they are originals with 120K on the truck. I will do the alt and starter tests and check for voltage drop to starter as well. Thanks again. I will post up what the problem ended up being.
sorry for the delay. Well I replaced the solenoid on the firewall and that seemed to fix the problem until the other day. She called and said it won't start. Told her to move the shifter through the gears and then it started so I am guessing the problem is the transmission position sensor or whatever that is called. Is it adjustable?
Hi All,
My problem ended up being the starter. I ran all the tests and they passed all the way down to the starter. Ford Reman installed and ready to go.
Thanks for the help.