No power?
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Joined: May 2012
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No power?
Hello all. I've got a 1997 Expedition that's having some issues. I bought it in February with our tax refund for 3k and it runs awesome generally. No complaints what so ever. On Tuesday night, I was going to go get something to eat and it wouldn't start. Nothing turned over, nothing even attempted to start. The interior lights would come on sometimes and when you turn the key to try to start it, they'd go off and some relays would start clicking. If you tapped on the brake, it would stop...sometimes. Did some research and found out about the factory defect in the windshield seal. Took out the GEM to check for corrosion and it looks great. Not a spot of anything on it. Put it back together and nothing happens now. No lights, clicking relays, nothing. The fuse box is getting power and the battery is not dead. It's putting out about 12.8 volts as of yesterday. The radio quit working a couple weeks ago. No lights or clock. It just all quit and the alternator noise that used to be barely noticeable got really bad. I managed to get the radio to come back on briefly once I got the RPM's up to about 4-5k and the birdies were really loud and changed pitch as the transmission shifted. I turned the radio back off and it hasn't came back on since then. I'm not sure what is going on with my car, but I need some idea of what it could be. I tried another ford forum and nobody answered me, so I though I'd try here.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,740
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From: Central NYS
The starter requires a lot of current to crank the engine over. When you turn the key, the relays pull in and current goes to the starter motor. If you have a bad connection, or a weak battery, the starter motor cant get enough current to fully engage, but it does suck up all available current to the point that there isn't enough juice to hold the relay in. So the relay release and opens the circuit. Now there is enough current to engage the relay, it clicks in, the starter can't get enough current to fully engage, but it sucks up all the current, so the relay release, etc, etc. And the relay sounds like a machine gun as it clicks in, release, clicks in, etc.
If the battery reads 12.8 volts, that's good. But did you read the battery voltage while some one is trying to crank the engine over?
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Joined: May 2012
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I'm guessing, but if you turn the key and the lights dim or go out, either your battery isn't up to the task, you have a bad connection between the battery post and the starter, or your starter is bad.
The starter requires a lot of current to crank the engine over. When you turn the key, the relays pull in and current goes to the starter motor. If you have a bad connection, or a weak battery, the starter motor cant get enough current to fully engage, but it does suck up all available current to the point that there isn't enough juice to hold the relay in. So the relay release and opens the circuit. Now there is enough current to engage the relay, it clicks in, the starter can't get enough current to fully engage, but it sucks up all the current, so the relay release, etc, etc. And the relay sounds like a machine gun as it clicks in, release, clicks in, etc.
If the battery reads 12.8 volts, that's good. But did you read the battery voltage while some one is trying to crank the engine over?
The starter requires a lot of current to crank the engine over. When you turn the key, the relays pull in and current goes to the starter motor. If you have a bad connection, or a weak battery, the starter motor cant get enough current to fully engage, but it does suck up all available current to the point that there isn't enough juice to hold the relay in. So the relay release and opens the circuit. Now there is enough current to engage the relay, it clicks in, the starter can't get enough current to fully engage, but it sucks up all the current, so the relay release, etc, etc. And the relay sounds like a machine gun as it clicks in, release, clicks in, etc.
If the battery reads 12.8 volts, that's good. But did you read the battery voltage while some one is trying to crank the engine over?
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 552
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when you had the fuse block and gem out. did you seperate them entirely? there are 4 screws on the chip board two are black/long and gold/short did you get them back where they went? im not sure if this an issue i do know i noted where they came from.
as mentioned did you get the 3 connections on the side in securely and the two monster plugs with the #10 bolt seated securely?
the problems you spoke of definately point to the gem module issues. i think i would back track and remove again and i say this for good reason.
I just had a 2000 expedition in my shop. for No air condition, no backup lights and auto door locks or cruise. I had that gem out once for a good look see and i didnt see any tell tale problems. after alot of diagnostics i decided to take the gem out again. this time i paid closer attention particularlily to fuse 5. that fuse had a too large gap at the slide in and wasnt making contact on the feed side i had to install a copper shim and reinstall...Bingo works like a champ . just saying second time around sometimes we look a wee bit harder.
good luck!
as mentioned did you get the 3 connections on the side in securely and the two monster plugs with the #10 bolt seated securely?
the problems you spoke of definately point to the gem module issues. i think i would back track and remove again and i say this for good reason.
I just had a 2000 expedition in my shop. for No air condition, no backup lights and auto door locks or cruise. I had that gem out once for a good look see and i didnt see any tell tale problems. after alot of diagnostics i decided to take the gem out again. this time i paid closer attention particularlily to fuse 5. that fuse had a too large gap at the slide in and wasnt making contact on the feed side i had to install a copper shim and reinstall...Bingo works like a champ . just saying second time around sometimes we look a wee bit harder.
good luck!
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