Code 118: ECT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.

Code 122: TPS circuit below minimum 0.6 volts.


Code 118 could be a huge contributor to your issues. The ECT output is way too high. This would cause the PCM to think the engine is running too hot. Never ignore the obvious. Check the ECT output with a meter.

For reference: Fuel Injection Technical Library » Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)


Code 122 could also be contributing to your shifting and stalling issue. Even new TPS sensors can be faulty. Especially if you used a cheap aftermarket version.

For reference: Fuel Injection Technical Library » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

 

rla 2005, I tried to do what you suggested and test the ECT sensor but when I found what I thought was supposed to be the sensor there is a wire that connects my temp gauge. The old owner had it installed at some point.

Is that the sensor I'm supposed to be looking for? Also I found the old plug just hanging in the engine compartment that connected to it before they new temp gauge sensor.

I guess I'm not sure where exactly the sensor is I can't seem to find my Haynes manual.

 

Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (on connector C183) is located on the front of the engine.




Reference the photo below, bottom center:

 

Yep that's what it was, it has a temp gauge rtv-Ed into the top

 

You need to put the connector back on the ECT sensor in order for the PCM to know what the engine temperature is.

They should have used the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender (on connector C150) located on the passenger side of the engine.

For reference:

 

Alright, I know the stock temp gauge won't work and that's why he added that gauge. Ill try taking it off and plugging in the harness plug for the ECT.

I ordered a trans cooler with a fan and if that solves the overheating issue ill know the transmission is sound and there isn't an interal reason why it's heating up.

After that ill feel better about proceeding with the ECT sensor and possibly replacing that.

And what would anyone suggest about code 122? I could order another TPS from a more reputable dealer. I mean shouldn't I be focusing on what's causing the high voltage/ low voltages and not just replacing sensors?

I'm giving it two more weeks of trouble shooting and ill have enough $$ to just take it in. I'm estimating as high as $2500 if they need to replace my tranny worst case scenario.

Thanks guys.

 

Look at my previous post. Invest in a cheap meter to verify the output values throughout it's range of travel.

 

Well guys she won't shift out of neutral and reverse. No clue what happened. Think it's time to retire her or take her in.

 

Update: Transmission Rebuilt, most problems solved one remains...

For any one curious I took the truck in for a transmission rebuild. He did a great job and did a lot extra work for the original price he quoted me on. They said there were a lot of electrical issues and they even swapped computers at one point. He replaced my TPS sensor, my Coolant Sensor, and a few other things along with the rebuild.

The only issue that remains is after you drive it for over 15 minutes and shift it into reverse it stalls. it doesn't do this when you first start it, you have to drive it for a while, I'm assuming there is pressure building up it's driven. And then it will stall again after you restart the truck and back up and come to a stop. This is a minor issue compared to what I was dealing with and is only really a hinderance when i back up a trailer or boat.

I have to take it back into the shop in two weeks because he wants to inspect it and make sure everything sealed but does anyone have any ideas? I don't really plan on messing with it until he looks at it, unless the solution makes sense to do now. Fluid levels are fine, and lets assume that the trans-filter is in place as they just rebuilt the thing. Any insight is appreciated

 

Pulled my positive battery cable off for 1 minute. Then hooked it back up.

Shifts beautifully!

Sweet tip!

 

...until the next time the error is seen. Then the code will be stored again and the hard shift will return.

Next time it happens consider reading the codes so you can fix what's wrong instead of masking the symptoms, which can lead to transmission failure.

 

I will next time. Though I hope it will be fine after this.

The truck sat for about a year before I bought it. So there are things still working free here and there.

The rear sending unit only just came back to life.

 

Did you find out what was making it bog out?

 

I know this thread is old but for anyone that reads through this and has the bogging down and stalling out issue with the overheating, I would believe it’s the torque converter. My trans started doing that and it actually tore up the transmission.

 

At least for my part. My 93 F-150 is shifting much better after cleaning the VSS in the rear axle & putting new capacitors in the computer.