Sticking front caliper
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 8,843
Likes: 27
From: Eastern Ky
If you've mentioned it, I've overlooked it, but have you changed brake pads?
Mine was pulling to the left severely...Checked the brake pads and found this.
This is the D/S as it came off the truck.
D/S & P/S From the perspective of the drivers' seat.
Mine was pulling to the left severely...Checked the brake pads and found this.
This is the D/S as it came off the truck.
D/S & P/S From the perspective of the drivers' seat.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 935
Likes: 0
From: TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why is one outboard pad riveted and the other not?
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2011
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Likes: 18
Gentlemen, I really do appreciate that you're trying to help, but please read the posts where I state the symptoms. This is a problem somewhere within the brakes. This has nothing to do with ball joints, tires, cotter pins, or the gravitational pull of the moon.
And back to the problem, Sidewinder, when I re-replaced the caliper I inspected the pads and they're still in great shape. The only pull I have is when I brake hard, the truck pulls slightly to the left. This gives me the impression that the sticking caliper isn't getting full line pressure during braking. As for the severity of the sticking; when in the air I can turn the wheel by hand but it is clamped just enough that it won't continue to spin, it stops as soon as I stop pushing it. It's not nearly enough to pull while the truck is driving. It's got to be hydraulic.
I'm going to start pricing things out, but I may try a new passenger side hard brake line (the metal one from the master cylinder to the rubber line) to see if that fixes it before replacing the master cylinder. I'll let you guys know how it all works out and let you know what exactly the problem was. Hopefully my whoas will help one of you chaps in the future.
And back to the problem, Sidewinder, when I re-replaced the caliper I inspected the pads and they're still in great shape. The only pull I have is when I brake hard, the truck pulls slightly to the left. This gives me the impression that the sticking caliper isn't getting full line pressure during braking. As for the severity of the sticking; when in the air I can turn the wheel by hand but it is clamped just enough that it won't continue to spin, it stops as soon as I stop pushing it. It's not nearly enough to pull while the truck is driving. It's got to be hydraulic.
I'm going to start pricing things out, but I may try a new passenger side hard brake line (the metal one from the master cylinder to the rubber line) to see if that fixes it before replacing the master cylinder. I'll let you guys know how it all works out and let you know what exactly the problem was. Hopefully my whoas will help one of you chaps in the future.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 8,843
Likes: 27
From: Eastern Ky
Ghanson- You're describing how my truck was driving, to a T. Slight tug to the left, hit the brakes hard, and it'd throw you across the yellow line.
Drew-That brake pad on the far right hasn't worn down as much as the one on the far left.
Drew-That brake pad on the far right hasn't worn down as much as the one on the far left.
New User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
My truck did the same. I also did everything you did including pro beeding,except for last time.
When bleeding, I tapped the right caliper with a hammer, then re-bled the right side.
I got a bunch of air bubbles out.
Have bled many brakes before ,with no problems, but seems the right caliper can hold air.
After burning up 3 right brakes and calipers, it stops perfect.
I feel your pain, try it, it might work.
Jim
When bleeding, I tapped the right caliper with a hammer, then re-bled the right side.
I got a bunch of air bubbles out.
Have bled many brakes before ,with no problems, but seems the right caliper can hold air.
After burning up 3 right brakes and calipers, it stops perfect.
I feel your pain, try it, it might work.
Jim
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Worth, Texas
Yet something else to check (based on experience.)
The brake line to caliper banjo bolt. It does not take much to overtorque that banjo bolt. Nothing will happen to the threads, but the hole where the fluid is suppose to flow through can easily get distorted. I recently made this mistake.
The brake line to caliper banjo bolt. It does not take much to overtorque that banjo bolt. Nothing will happen to the threads, but the hole where the fluid is suppose to flow through can easily get distorted. I recently made this mistake.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 579
Likes: 18
You gentlemen have some great ideas. I'll give 'em a try. The banjo bolt was fine the last time I looked at it, but that's not to say that the shop hasn't fudged it up since then.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2011
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And still no freaking clue!!!
Alright gentlemen, sorry for taking so long but I have an update.... I now have even less of a clue of what is making my front caliper stick.
I dropped the truck off at "Brake Masters" to let them sort things out, and they have absolutely no clue what could be wrong. There is no built up hydraulic pressure that is causing the caliper to stick; their only suggestion is to try ANOTHER caliper and caliper bracket.
So you don't have to reread anything, the stock FR caliper corroded internally and seized on my a few months back. I replaced both fronts with new calipers and mounting brackets but the FR still stuck a would start squeaking once it warmed up. The noise continued to get louder so I went out and bought another new caliper for the FR. Nothing changed though, and over time the squeak only gets worse. I am not about to buy another new caliper and bracket. I'm going to take her to another shop for another opinion....
Maybe this is God's way of telling me I should do the Dana 60 swap now.....
As usual, if anyone has any suggestions for me, it would be GREATLY appreciated, because this has now stumped the "brake masters." Thanks!
I dropped the truck off at "Brake Masters" to let them sort things out, and they have absolutely no clue what could be wrong. There is no built up hydraulic pressure that is causing the caliper to stick; their only suggestion is to try ANOTHER caliper and caliper bracket.
So you don't have to reread anything, the stock FR caliper corroded internally and seized on my a few months back. I replaced both fronts with new calipers and mounting brackets but the FR still stuck a would start squeaking once it warmed up. The noise continued to get louder so I went out and bought another new caliper for the FR. Nothing changed though, and over time the squeak only gets worse. I am not about to buy another new caliper and bracket. I'm going to take her to another shop for another opinion....
Maybe this is God's way of telling me I should do the Dana 60 swap now.....
As usual, if anyone has any suggestions for me, it would be GREATLY appreciated, because this has now stumped the "brake masters." Thanks!
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2011
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I thought that for a while but it's been checked a few times and even confirmed by the shop. There is a considerable resistance with the caliper on, but once you remove the caliper and spin the rotor it spins freely. In addition to that, the stock caliper failed due to internal corrosion and it's been a constant problem on just that corner since, so I just can't see it being anything other than a problem in the brake system somewhere. And the shop checked out the master cylinder and all the other hydraulic components and said (assuming competency) that they were all working correctly.
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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Hmm... something isn't working correctly that's for sure.
I was fairly busy at work today and didn't get a chance to check out exactly how they did the system on your truck - assuming AllData or Mitchell has it right.
What does your proportioning valve look like? Is it down on the frame rail and part of the rabs antilock or do you have the abs module with the motor and pistons?
I was fairly busy at work today and didn't get a chance to check out exactly how they did the system on your truck - assuming AllData or Mitchell has it right.
What does your proportioning valve look like? Is it down on the frame rail and part of the rabs antilock or do you have the abs module with the motor and pistons?
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 21
From: Caracas, Venezuela
If everything else check, take down the rotor and have it turned. Mine isn't exactly the same truck, but my Front End Rebuild thread (link in my signature) should be useful as reference on how to remove it.
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