Hello All,

I recently ran into the "clunking from the front end" problem with my Excursion. It is 2WD but this might apply to all.

I had the clunk under my left foot while driving over a series of small bumps. It was a rapid clunking. One big bump, or things like speed bumps did not produce the noise or feel in my feet. Only rapid irregularities in the road at 35 mph or greater made it happen.

It made me crazy trying to figure it out. I tried everything. Both sets of swaybar links, shock mounts, track bar mounts, made sure brake calipers were tight, you name it. It showed its ugly head everytime I hit small bumps in succession at speed. Even tried to re-seat the coil springs but that didn't help!

My front bearings made NO noise. There was NO play in them by hand while up on jacks. I had taken them out and repacked them while replacing front brakes. At my wits' end, I went for a "hail mary" shot. I purchased new bearings. Took it all apart, packed the new bearings and replaced.

Low and behold! The damn "clunking" is now gone!

So, in short, IF you have a clunking that nothing else seems to fix, just try replacing the bearings even IF you feel NO play in them.

I hope this helps someone else out in the future. I couldn't believe that bearings that felt so tight by hand would be causing such clunking.

James

 

Good to know, I am going to replace mine. I also have a 2wd.
Is it pretty easy to do ?
what brand of bearings did you get?
anything else needed ?

 

Howdy,

Yes, they are easy to do. Any Haynes Manual will have the steps involved. Also you can find write-ups on this website and others. Also You-Tube has videos on it. I have done them before alot, so I already knew how.

As far as brand of bearings goes. You can find plenty of back-and-forth arguments over which is best, but I used National Bearings. I have always used Timkens in the past, but they were not available locally at the time I needed them. I know alot of guys who use National, so I am comfortable with them. The exact part numbers I used are:
National Inner Bearing - LM102949
National Outer Bearing - 15101

You will need one of each for both sides (so two of each).

I packed them with Mobil 1 Synthetic High Pressure Bearing Grease. Then lubed up the races real good with grease and put them into the hubs. If you don't know how to properly "pack" a bearing, then You-tube alos videos on that.

You can get the parts from Advance Auto. This is personal opinion only, but don't get "in-house-brand" bearings. Get National or Timken.

Also, I didnt' replace the bearing races or cups because I know how to tell if they are scorched or worn. If you aren't sure, then replace, but if they are shiny (no "blue" color from overheating) and you can run your finger over them and feel no irregularities in the surface, then they are good.

Make sure you get new bearing grease seals as well. I used National part number - 4160. I personally like the NAPA ones better as they have a "lip" that makes them easier to drive into the hub, but I have the tool to drive in the National type, so I went with them. You can also just use a brass drift and a small hammer and carefully drive them in. Just don't deform the metal ring, or you will be doing it again.

You CAN do this yourself! Just allow a few hours so you have time to look and study everything over. It took me about 2 hours total (with answering some phone calls) but I also replaced the pads at the same time.

Good luck and let us know how it goes if you tackle this yourself.

Also, if you have any questions, just ask! If don't respond in time, there are an awful LOT of helpful folks on this forum!

James

 

This may not apply to the 4x4s, as they use a completely different type of sealed unit bearing that's not serviceable. It's also nearly $200 for a good quality replacement.

 

You mean it doesn't apply to the 4x2's ?
It doesn't.
I priced the Timken bearings needed for the 4x2, the 2 bearings are about 10 and 15 dollars. The seal about 10. Less on ebay.
So about 70 bucks total.

 

Nope, I was replying to this:

His truck is a 2WD, and so the parts and solution apply to that configuration. I was pointing out that the 4WD trucks are different, that's all.

 

ah got it.. sorry for the confusion.

 

Guess I should clarify.
I am aware of the difference between 4X4 and 4X2 hubs / spindles.

When I said "this might apply to all", I was not saying what you think I was saying. I was merely trying to point people in a possible direction where a small, but irritating clunk might be coming from.

Sealed Unit Bearings (like on the Jeeps and GM trucks I have owned) can also be worn without noticable play in them when checked by hand. Just letting folks know to give replacement a try if all else has failed. Yes, I know they are expensive.

I suppose I could have titled the thread "If you own a 4X4 then don't even look at this thread".

Sorry for any confusion.

James