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I'm going to start on my 460 "refresh" project this weekend. I know from inspection and tests that I need new rings and rod bearings, but I don't know how to determine the condition of my valves and heads.
Is there any way, other than visual inspection, to determine weather or not I need a valve job?
check for play in the valves after you take the springs off if you get any play in the valve the guides need to be replaced. Look for rough spots in the seats and the valve edges. At the very minimum check for valve stretch and replace if they are out of limits. Check the valve spring heights and do a pressure check to see what they sit at when they are around installed height. Ummm.... The main bearings are a visual. Look for any material that has been worn through to copper or tin. If it were me I would just change them while I had it apart.
I've done enough valve jobs to do them with my eyes closed; literally. Actually if you're "just checking the valves with the heads off" an older technique we used years ago was valve lapping.
Get some valve lapping compound and some new valve stem seals and then lap the valves. One by one after lapping them, remove and inspect for wierd wear patterns or pitting --- these are areas that lapping will not cover during the process and will show up as dark spots. What you are shooting for is a nice round pattern all around the valve. I got my valve lapper from Cornwell tools (are they still in business, I wonder?...) about 35 years ago. I used it as recent as 2 years ago ( not that many valve jobs recently ---- my back's giving out on me... )
OK. I pulled the heads and visually checked the valves. They don't look too bad at a glance. I have to remove them to check the seats yet, but I think they'll be OK.
I also checked the cylinders at the top where the ridge is. It's not REAL bad, but probably should be bored. That was something I was hoping to avoid as this is just a play thing.
The big question I have now is, If I decide not to bore the block and just replace the rings and main/rod bearings, what's the worst thing that could happen?
you might not need to bore the block but you still need to run a ridge reamer to cut down that ridge on the top of the cylinder and also need to hone the cylinder this allows proper seating of the rings. i made the mistake and did not hone the cylinders on my 302 before i put it back together and now i dont know if the rings are going to seat. i havent ran the motor yet but it is bolted into the truck. i have been told that some times the rings will seat without honing but its one of those chance things. honing is very simple, as i have done it before so you should be able to tackle this an your own without spending lots of money
The honing tool is a drill attachment, correct? The one with the 3 long "sharpening stones" on spring loaded arms? That's what I used in high school decades ago anyway. I think Sears and most automotive stores sell those.
What about the ridge reamer? Is that something you can rent? I know what they do, but I've never seen one.
Yup, Sears sell honing equipment. I bought my ridge reamer from Cornwell Tools decades ago - pop it in the cylnder, tighten it and turn it - presto/chango - no more ridgies!! You can borrow mine if you want....
I'd get both items from Snap-on or Cornwell if I were you; they are well worth the investment and will last a LIFE time if treated right (like mine have)...I've honed a few hundred ponchos since the mid 60's with mine...
The rings I'm planning on installing are TRW #T8189X (purchased on ebay). I just sent the seller an e-mail asking if he knows the honing pattern. I'm also going to look it up on the web.
Thanks for the info. It's something I never would've thought of.