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I'm looking to put a locker in my 78 F250 (Dana 60 rear) this truck is my DD/Tow rig/weekend offroad warrior. So I want a good reliable locker. selectable would be awsome, but probably out of my budget. So whats the best locker for the money? I'v heard alot of good things about detroits, but I'v also heard that there bad for DD? And Im not too concerned with it, but how hard are they to install? never really done any differential work and dont know what all is involved.
And I dont want anyone jumping on me about haveing a pavement princess or anything, I'm not trying to make my truck look like anything its not. If i dint offroad it i wouldnt need a locker, and if i had the money to have a seperate off road only truck, I'd probably just weld it.
That being said, i'd apreciate any help.
Thanks, Tyler.
Detroits can suck pretty good for a DD. You have to get good at feathering the throttle to make it around corners without the rear end bouncing. They make a real loud "racheting" sound when you do it to.
I would go with a "lunchbox" locker, something you can put in without having to pull your ring and pinion. Something like a powertrax is a good budget locker that you don't have to set up a rear end to install
Depending on your budget, for ultimate selectabilty you could run an air locker, like ARB makes.
I've got absolutely zero negative to say about a Detroit in a street driven application. I don't think you can buy one and an install kit on a $500 budget though.
Well my first choice would be Detroit. But if that's out of budget, try Aussie. Idk if they make one for the D60, but I had one in my 94 with a 8.8, it was a good locker, but every once in a wile it would unlock very hard,make a big bang, and shake the truck a bit.
Personally I wouldn't put .10c into a Dana 60 rear. If you want a locker why not just avoid all of this and buy a axle from a junk yard that already has one in it ? Rears can go anywhere from $100 to $300 in my area.
Your budget doesn't allow for much in the heavy duty range except lunchbox lockers.
I hated the lock-right, rear. It popped banged threw the truck around and was not pleasant, the wife drove it once. Make sure you put in new side washers if installing one. The LR was replaced with a welded rearend.
I like the Spartan, but it's also in the front but seems to work nice. Does click a little but haven't had any problems and installed easier than the lock-right.
Welded, rear only front equals bad idea. Really like the welded rear off-road and even on the hwy but in town was a little annoying with the tighter turns. This was replaced with an e-locker.
Mark a, what axel Would you suggest I get? I haven't heard anyone with anything bad to say about a 60 before, but that dosent mean too much. If 500 isint gonna get me a good locker I'd rather just wait and save some more cash to buy a good one. Are the zip lockers from bronco graveyard good?
If a 60 won't work you can find d70s in 70-early 80s 350s, a sterling 10.25 in mid 80s- 97 250 and 350s and a 14bt in pretty much any chebby 2500-3500.
Being said I have a 60 rear with a Detroit in my truck. I have a 70u gears and Detroit to build but I just don't need it or the weight.
60 Detroit's are about $600, install kits run about $130 and labor can get quite expensive from a decent shop. Just a guess but $500 per axle maybe? Not sure.
I get along with the local JY owner pretty well, so finding a dana 70 or a sterling wouldnt be a problem. which one is better? and how hard of a swap is it, is a custom driveshaft needed?
I'm not sure about the Driveshaft's as i have never done the swap, BUT id feel fairly confident that the spring pads would have to be moved on the axles as Im pretty sure the frame widths are a good bit different.
Put in a power lok. Won't chirp around corners and if clutches are good it will hook up nice. They come up on eBay sometimes.
Detroits don't HOP around corners like the first response post, they will chirp on tight corners though(tires ) I've never heard locker ratcheting..
Next Time im at the JY ill look for a good Dana 70. Is there a way to tell if there locked without pulling the cover? Itd be sweet to score one allready locked, but I'd rather avoid pulling all the covers if i can. And I did a shackle flip as well as an add a leaf to the rear, so my stock driveshaft is stretched about as far as itll reach now, so Id guess itll be just right with the 70? And wheres a good place to pick up one of the conversion U-joints?