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initial start up-timing

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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 06:01 PM
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initial start up-timing

So I'm about ready to start a new engine, been a long process. I just want to be sure that it fires up fast and not be grinding away. I plan on having the fuel system primed with gas in the carb. My question is with the electrical. Can I pre-set the timing and check it by doing the following...move my balancer to approx. 12 degress before TDC, turn the ignition key to the ON position, rotate the distributor until the rotor hits the #1 tower? Will I be able to see a spark at the #1 plug wire? I just want be sure that I have spark and that the timing is close to where it should be for initial start up. Hope to have it fire right up for cam break-in. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 07:59 PM
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Sounds good .. you can do this also if you have a multimeter with built in chime for continuity withe probe making contact at coil wire location on cap and contact at no. 1 cylinder on cap it will chime when you make the rotation of distributor housing .. also on pre initial start up you can use an old distributor shaft and variable speed drill motor to prime all oil distribution prior to firing motor .. Also be sure to find tdc by using piston stop in either direction and taking middle marking it on the harmonic balancer for good.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 07:27 PM
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If you don't have the distributor in yet, pull #1 plug, pull the coil wire, stick your finger into the #1 hole, have someone hit the starter if you don't have a remote control. when #1 piston come to the compression stroke it will blow air passed your finger. Stop there. If you think you went to far do it again, and again until #1 piston is on TDC. Drop in the distributor and make sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire. Don't worry about the oil pump shaft if it didn't fall into place. Hit the starter and when to rotates it should fall in. Now rotate the engine a couple times with your finger in the hole and see if the rotor points to the #1 plug wire exactly when the air passes your finger. Oh, mark the side of the distributor with ink marker where #1 wire is because you'll have the cap off.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by redroad
also on pre initial start up you can use an old distributor shaft and variable speed drill motor to prime all oil distribution prior to firing motor.
That's more important than anything, chances are it won't start first time, even with "correct" timing...

So you want it lubed under pressure, don't want to wipe out a new cam.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by redroad
... withe probe making contact at coil wire location on cap and contact at no. 1 cylinder on cap it will chime when you make the rotation of distributor housing.
Seriously? What kind of multimeter do you have...and have you actually tried that?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 10:23 PM
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Got her going, fired right up. Had a little overheating issue but got that resolved. Ran for about 40 minutes, varying RPM's, keeping it off idle. Changed out oil, will test and tune this week.

Out with the old.......



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In with the new.........


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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 10:27 PM
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Beautiful job
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 07:44 AM
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by dlburch
Seriously? What kind of multimeter do you have...and have you actually tried that?
Yes, seriously .. Any multimeter with a continuity checking ability that chimes .. For $40 and alligator clips on leads you too can have this ability rotate crank until the beep is continuous ..






 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 09:01 AM
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you've actually tried this? I've got a Beckman industrial multimeter and a Fluke and I don't think either one has the power to jump across that spark gap between the rotor and contacts in the cap.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dlburch
you've actually tried this? I've got a Beckman industrial multimeter and a Fluke and I don't think either one has the power to jump across that spark gap between the rotor and contacts in the cap.
This is how I do it using red spade connector and paperclip as pointer .. Just test for continuity .. The spade connector slot allows for adjustment .. The cheaper rotors may not have the screw but "accel" does usually .. You can see when working alone the advantage it gives you just listening for the beep
 
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