Injector harness replacement
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Junior User
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Injector harness replacement
Fixing to replace the standpipes and D-plugs, injector harness, glow plug harnesses, and fuel pump on my 04 6.0 
Is there any tips, tricks, or warning I should know about before tackling this? I'm hoping it will be fairly straight-forward. The injector swap was fairly painless up the the high pressure oil leak from the D-plug leading to a brief start, then a no-start.
Also, are there any "mods" to make the harness more chafe resistant, and the FICM connectors less likely to self-destruct at the drop of a hat?
This project started out as a stall, then no-hot-start condition. So far I have replaced the injectors and glow plugs, and by the end of the day I hope to replace the harnesses, IPR valve, standpipes and D-plugs, and fuel pump. Not much left after that but HPOP, God forbid.
Is there any tips, tricks, or warning I should know about before tackling this? I'm hoping it will be fairly straight-forward. The injector swap was fairly painless up the the high pressure oil leak from the D-plug leading to a brief start, then a no-start.
Also, are there any "mods" to make the harness more chafe resistant, and the FICM connectors less likely to self-destruct at the drop of a hat?
This project started out as a stall, then no-hot-start condition. So far I have replaced the injectors and glow plugs, and by the end of the day I hope to replace the harnesses, IPR valve, standpipes and D-plugs, and fuel pump. Not much left after that but HPOP, God forbid.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
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From: South Weber, Utah
The updated pipes and plugs take a 12MM hex bit.
As far as chafe proofing the harness just pay attention to the places where the current harness is laying across anything that can rub through it like bolt heads or studs or anything with a sharp edge, what I did on the harness where it goes under the air cleaner was, I took a 1" electrical tape container and cut the bottom out and cut the remaining 1" wide band that was left so I had a 1" wide strap of plastic and I wrapped it around the harness and wrapped over that with electrical tape.
As far as chafe proofing the harness just pay attention to the places where the current harness is laying across anything that can rub through it like bolt heads or studs or anything with a sharp edge, what I did on the harness where it goes under the air cleaner was, I took a 1" electrical tape container and cut the bottom out and cut the remaining 1" wide band that was left so I had a 1" wide strap of plastic and I wrapped it around the harness and wrapped over that with electrical tape.
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Well, good news is I got everything installed. Bad news is..... still a crank, no start. ICP gets to about 134 PSI and tops out. Only thing left is HPOP, but I am not convinced thats the issue. I changed out the passenger side injectors and it started right up. I changed out the driver side injectors and something happened to cause it not to start. It wont even start with the ICP sensor unplugged. Any ideas?
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You may have to do an air leak test...put an M12x1.5 fitting in ICP port and put air to it and see if you can hear an air leak. You will have to close IPR by applying 12volts to it, however, don't keep the power to it for longer than 2min, you can damage the IPR. Take the oil filler cap off and CCV tube from passenger side valve cover and listen for a leak. If you hear air from turbo oil feed or oil filter reservoir, it may be indication of bad HPOP. I'm sure more experienced guys will chime in to give better advice. Also pay attention to IPR % while cranking. You said it is new but that is supposed to adjust to help modulate high pressure oil. I think on the low end around 14% up to 85%. Good Luck!
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To GB73... Just to give a few details, the IPR % at cranking stays around 14.X%, and the ICP gets to a high of about 140-144 while cranking, but no more. When I took the old IPR vavle off, it's screen was still in great shape, and it didn't really show any signs of failure. I simply elected to replace it since I was already that deep into this gremlin hunt. *sigh* Next will be the HPOP air test. Hell, its just about the only thing left at this point.
Anyone know a likely source for metric plumbing parts to make the ICP air adapter?
Anyone know a likely source for metric plumbing parts to make the ICP air adapter?
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Truly a golden nugget, MisterCMK. Sometimes even the best of us overlook the obvious. 
On a side note, does ayone know if the Scan Gauge II has the ability to send commands to ECM, such as ordering the IPR valve closed? I thought I saw that posted somewhere, but I may just be smoking crack.
On a side note, does ayone know if the Scan Gauge II has the ability to send commands to ECM, such as ordering the IPR valve closed? I thought I saw that posted somewhere, but I may just be smoking crack.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Truly a golden nugget, MisterCMK. Sometimes even the best of us overlook the obvious.
On a side note, does ayone know if the Scan Gauge II has the ability to send commands to ECM, such as ordering the IPR valve closed? I thought I saw that posted somewhere, but I may just be smoking crack.
On a side note, does ayone know if the Scan Gauge II has the ability to send commands to ECM, such as ordering the IPR valve closed? I thought I saw that posted somewhere, but I may just be smoking crack.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2013
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Have you put the updated STC fitting? If not, I would start there. Also, I don't know if this is cause for concern...but, I believe the IPR would close up to 85% in an effort to build high pressure oil to fire your injectors. I could be mistaken.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,072
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Do you have the right oil filter and Cap on???
LPO System OK???? Sounds like it probablt is OK but might b e worth pullen the filter out and cranking to verify LPO Flow
Looks like this is getting VERY Expensive some air testing might be the ticket
LPO System OK???? Sounds like it probablt is OK but might b e worth pullen the filter out and cranking to verify LPO Flow
Looks like this is getting VERY Expensive some air testing might be the ticket
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Henderson, Nevada
This is the size you need to make a fitting for the ICP air test:
1/8 NPT female to M12 P-1.5 male Adapter I bought mine from Glowshift: http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-8-n...e-adapter.aspx
Same size fitting that installs into the fuel pressure test port if you install a gauge.
2004 models dont have the STC fitting, nor do they have the problematic dummy plug/standpipe issues.
Is the IPR valve new? If so then your HPOP took a dump. I had something similar. They are easy to replace, just a few bolts and orings, especially if you have replaced injectors.
1/8 NPT female to M12 P-1.5 male Adapter I bought mine from Glowshift: http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-8-n...e-adapter.aspx
Same size fitting that installs into the fuel pressure test port if you install a gauge.
2004 models dont have the STC fitting, nor do they have the problematic dummy plug/standpipe issues.
Is the IPR valve new? If so then your HPOP took a dump. I had something similar. They are easy to replace, just a few bolts and orings, especially if you have replaced injectors.