When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
wow dylan, nice tires back when i drove a car, i would wear them down till they were bulging and/or showing wires before i replaced them, but in a truck, they blow up long before that, at least in my hands
Sean, both my manual and the places I've looked online call for .006 for intake & exhaust. They say that is factory spec on it.
Thanks josh, I just got 4 new duds put on today, no more shaking and wobbling. That tire you could push down on the side of the tread and see into the center of the tire. It's a mystery how it held air in. I also spen a whopping $2.75 for less than a gallon of gas to fill it. Feels pretty good after dumping $90+ into the bronco.
thats gotta feel good - something you can afford to drive finally
i'm back to working on that BMW i mentioned a couple days ago, i believe i know why the new clutch wasn't working, so i'm in the middle of pulling the tranny back out to replace the clutch fork pivot stud, a part that only costs $1.50 but is killing the geometry of the whole system.
at the moment i'm grabbing lunch while i wait for the loctite to dry so i can finish repairing my transmission jack which i kinda broke working on a dodge truck on friday. it just had the head of the jack free to wobble about 2 inches on its side tilt. just enough to drop a tranny on your head if you aren't careful. i thought about taking it back to harbor freight for a new one, but decided instead to fix the design flaw that killed it in the first place.
It's nice to not have something that costs $90+ a week to drive but I still haven't calculated the fuel mileage for this yet and it is having issues charging the battery back up. I hope it's just corroded wires and not something worse.
Sean, both my manual and the places I've looked online call for .006 for intake & exhaust. They say that is factory spec on it.
Thanks josh, I just got 4 new duds put on today, no more shaking and wobbling. That tire you could push down on the side of the tread and see into the center of the tire. It's a mystery how it held air in. I also spen a whopping $2.75 for less than a gallon of gas to fill it. Feels pretty good after dumping $90+ into the bronco.
Hmm, maybe some brain rust.
Last one I worked on was in 92
Maybe a different motor or something? I mean it runs real well already, it probably could run better but I don't know diddly about tuning these so for now it is fine.
yeah, i put that darn BMW all back together last week, even drove it around the block, but couldn't get the clutch release or even slip, no matter what i did. after much research online, i found that the little pivot stud was prone to wearing down and screwing up the geometry... and the rest is history i guess.
once i finish my dinner here, i'll put the tranny jack back together, and go from there. i wanna see this darn thing work
thanks - so far i've got the tranny jack put back together, and came inside to warm up my fingers. i guess i should go out there and drop that tranny before it gets too late...
my tranny jack is the red harbor freight one, rated for 800 pounds. its pretty solid except for the mechanisms to rock the head fore-aft and left-right - those are where my trouble has been. they had little ball bearings on the mechanism, but they weren't lubricated, and weren't supported well, just a flat washer against where the adjusting screw jumped up a size, the flat washer bent, the bearings fell apart, and the rest is history. i rebuilt it with a flange nut loctite'd in place supporting a few greased flat washers to serve as a bearing, and its working but the nuts holding it all together need to see some loctite before i i can trust it. it got a little scary there when the adjustment wasn't doing anything and i found the nut almost off.
but i got the tranny down, found the problem just as i expected, clutch fork pivot stud worn like this https://www.dropbox.com/s/qckrwhuuf3...2022.16.17.jpg to where it screwed over the geometry, and i guess the rest is history. i walked away for the night with the tranny mostly married to the engine, but sitting back 1/8" cause it didn't want to drop the rest of the way in - its where i'm confident to walk away, so i'll finish it in the morning, and the darn thing is gonna work!
I now know what the reasoning was for the 0.003". We did that with a race
valve grind engine. I also checked the clearance more than most because
of the tighter clearance.