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When you put a lift kit on a truck with a torsion bar suspension the kit basically just adds extensions to move the mounting points down away from the frame, and does the same for the A arms to match the lowered torsion bar mounts.
Can the opposite be done to lower my 66? Build pockets in the frame to rais the mounting points of the I beams, then cut the springs to match the mounting points of the beams that would now be basically inside the frame.
I know it's a little outside the box of thinking, but I just can't bring myself to spend 300-500 for new beams. While I'm still trying to get started on my build.
When you put a lift kit on a truck with a torsion bar suspension the kit basically just adds extensions to move the mounting points down away from the frame, and does the same for the A arms to match the lowered torsion bar mounts.
Can the opposite be done to lower my 66? Build pockets in the frame to rais the mounting points of the I beams, then cut the springs to match the mounting points of the beams that would now be basically inside the frame.
I know it's a little outside the box of thinking, but I just can't bring myself to spend 300-500 for new beams. While I'm still trying to get started on my build.
You could take the existing mounting spring pockets and raise them and it should lower the truck for sure, cutting the springs is never a great idea but can be done. Drop beams are the best and not really that pricey when it comes to safety and time spent.
Well, I am under the impression that if you cut the springs, or buy shorter springs, or even raise the spring mounts but the leave the stock frame mounts for the beams where they are then the camber changes.
But if the entire system was moved up then you would end up with a factory suspension but a lower truck.
I suppose it is possible.....although it would take a ton of fab work. Don't see how it would be cheaper or easier.
Maybe consider a Crown Vic or Jag IFS????
Jag and crown Vic, I thought the crown susp was too big and I love the jag idea. I was watching a how to vid on YouTube of a jag swap and it looked pretty straight forward, but the guy has just stopped. No complete job so I have no clue of the final stance.
The way I understand it is if you raise the spring pockets the whole cross member moves which keeps your camber in check, you can't buy shorter springs that I am aware of, but you could cut a set of sagging ones and get a lower stance but jepardise camber. At the end of he day it would be cheaper and easier to do drop beams. IMHO
I would hold off until you have the $$$ to do it the correct way. Trust me, its the only safe way to do it. AND you will save money in the long run. I did mine the proper way with a 3" drop 20+ yrs ago and it still rides great. Kept the stock height spring which didn't change camber or caster. Just dropped it 3" by the taller spindle neck. Sets the wheel higher which drops the truck. If you do it the other way, you will have a lot of adjusting to do and the ride will not be the same.
Wait till ya have the $$$. Shouldn't slow the rest of your build down. JMO
I agree TMR, I'm not on a time frame for the build, I'm just not a patient man. Dream beams sound like the way to for sure, I just like doing custom stuff that hasn't been done before to get the WOW factor. Thanks for the info guys.
Can the opposite be done to lower my 66? Build pockets in the frame to rais the mounting points of the I beams, then cut the springs to match the mounting points of the beams that would now be basically inside the frame.
I know it's a little outside the box of thinking, but I just can't bring myself to spend 300-500 for new beams. While I'm still trying to get started on my build.
If you raise the mounting points, you'll also raise the beams, which means you have to cut into the cross member, which means you'll then be into the oil pan, which mean.....you get the idea. One problem after another....
I agree that the dream beams are probably the least invasive way to lower the truck. The Jag & CV ideas are probably comparable in price but require more cutting to install them.
Installing the Jag suspension in a 66 is a little different than the 61-64 because the frame rails are a little bit taller. There's a guy installing one on the other slick forum if you wanna check it out Slick 60's • View topic - 1966 F100 Build
I totally understand the time/money/bigdreams/desire to get started frustrations!!! Good luck with your project. Keep us posted with some pics.
Thanks for the advise, I look into your link for the jag. Right now I'm just trying to redo the alum trim parts. I will have more pics up as soon as I figure out how to post em right side up.
I saw this done on a little later F100. Dream beams and a raised mounting point for the the iBeams. Cross Member was notched to allow the beams to move through and springs were cut to keep the camber right. Truck was running a 460 so not sure how that effected the oil pan. Looked great on American Racing 5 spokes.
I know the dream beams sound like a lot but I think it will be worth it. I am also holding off on lowering until I get some beams. I may notch the cross member to get more of a drop, I am looking for 5 inches on my drop.
It is all up to what your skill level is. Safety has to be the first thought.