Was wondering what people have been using for rear spring hangers and springs? I took apart mine and found everything sloopy and worn out. I would like to find something that sits tight to the frame so I can install as wide of a set of tires as possible.
Has anyone used springs that fit under the frame rails? I do hope to lower the truck as much as possible too with out notching the frame. I put the rear on top of my stock springs for now and it sits about right, on the rubbers 3 inches to the frame.
Hagen

 

hmmmm, no replies. There must be a common swap, or do most use the original pieces? Any info?

Thanks, Hagen

 

Hagen, Ive read somewhere about people switching springs but I think most folks use stock spring setups. I saw in your gallery that you have a 4-link rear? Wouldnt that involve shocks or coilovers?

Rich

 

Hagen,

I passed on your question originally but since response has been limited I'll tell you what I did. I wanted a smoother ride with softer springs in my 48 F-3 which originally had 13 leaf springs in the rear. I had converted the front suspension to Chrysler torsion bar and the rear end and springs for the 87 Chrysler donor were free so I decided to use them. They are longer from the axle rearward so you have to mount the hangers closer to the end of the frame but now I can move the suspension a couple of inches just by pushing down with my hand. I mounted them along the side of the frame as the original springs were mounted but used 'L' brackets made of 3/8ths angle and bolted on the Chrysler hangers and shackles. There is a thick rubber bushing that is used between the spring pads and rear end that absorbs a lot of shock and vibration. There are some pictures in my gallery. Even though I mounted mine on the side of the frame rails the springs could easily be mounted underneath the rails if that was preferred. You would just need to move the spring pads in further. Right now I have about 4-5 inches of travel but expect that to drop to around 3 inches when the bed is added.

Vern

 

good reply Vern. seems a lot of guys use the Ranger springs, for whatever reason, too. Vern makes a great point of spring length. '56 stock springs were lengthened over the previous years' springs by Ford. longer spring, smoother rate of deflection. I hadn't thought about the rubber between springs and axle. I'm gonna look into that one. seems like a great idea.

 

Nice pictures vern, is that rearend setup from the 87 chrsler as well? Are you going for an original type ride height or are you lowering it? It looks like it would fit outboard of the frame just fine if you wanted to drop it down.

I like seeing all that you are using from your donor car, is the column tilt and are you happy with it?

I have a 77 volare for a donor car I sure hope my truck rides as good as the car does I thrashed it through potholes and it soaked it up nice without a single rattle, couldn't beleive it. Not bad for a free car. I towed it home it had not been started for a few years and the battery cable that powers everything besides the starter was broken other than that some gas in the carb and the ugly thing actually rides and drives quite nice

 

Gary,

Yes, that is the 87 Chrysler rear. The width is very good but I am not very happy with the rear end ratio. I thought it was a 2:73 when I put it in but discovered later it is a 2:26. I'm running an automatic transmission but I'm not sure if the 2:26 will work out...time will tell. I am hoping to lower the truck some but I don't want it in the weeds. I have some leeway on the mounting if I decide to lower it further or even raise it some. I won't really know for sure until I get the bed on it. The column is a tilt and the correct length but I would not recommend using it since it does not have integrated brake lights/signals nor a neutral safety switch which on this model was in the transmission. I can get by the non-integrated brake lights/signals by using separate brake or signal lights in the rear but will have to fabricate a neutral safety switch or buy an aftermarket one. Being on a budget, my goal was to use as much of the donor as possible so I also used the gas and brake pedal, driveshaft, brake booster and MC, fusebox and all wiring. I paid $150 for the car. Even the 318 engine and transmission were running and I gave it to a friend to use in his project

Vern

 

great to see all the ingenuity, I also picked up a 87 mark vii for $225 (it needed a fuel pump, I had a spare collecting dust) it has the HO 5.0, aod auto tranny and a disc braked 8.8 with 3.27 gears and a trac lok its a little wide but I can get it down to 58" with aerostar axles and flipping the caliper brackets. I may very well use the volare leafs, shackles and hangers though they look pretty slick on your setup.

 

Gary,

I appreciate the kind words. Benjamin Franklin said "Necessity is the mother of invention". It looks like you got a deal on the 87 Mark. I can see you doing much the same with your donor. Good luck on it and set up a gallery so we can see your progress.

Vern

 

I used the bracket & springs from a small Bronco which are the same as the Ranger, & an explorer rear end. I just centered the springs and drilled holes to bolt it in.
Jaye

 

My donor vehicle is a '91 Crown Vic with the non-HO 5.0L. I hadn't really thought about the option of using the springs out of it on my truck... been thinking about parting the thing out and hunting down an explorer rear axle, and a HO motor.

 

An explorer rear is a great option, 31 splines pretty easy to have one with a trak lok, decent gears 3.55s to 4.10s and the 95 and up disc brakes are great. The width is right also at 58.5 or so. I was going to do that also but when I researched my mark vii rear I found it had 3.27 gears and trak lok and 11.62 inch rear discs. Alot of these car 8.8 housings are the same turns out it will take aerostar or ranger axles and then with a bracket swap it will go down to 58.5 inches as well. There may be something similar you can do with your crown vic rearend also.

 

Hmmm.... need to look into that.

 

One way I found to smooth out the buggy-spring ride on the F1: I put the entire frame/running gear from a 1973 Mercury Montego coupe under the great Ford sheet metal. Body mounts are easy to fabricate if you can weld. The wheelbase is exactly the same. The fender clearance is adequate for the track width. The parts needed to freshen up the Montego suspension and brakes are cheap and available. The 351 Windsor can easily be jacked up to 400 HP without breaking your wallet in half. The 9" rear axle can use any of thousands of available gear sets and locker/positraction options. The entire wiring harness can be transferred if desired.

Sandblast and repaint everything in sight while you have the bodies off. Oh, and the F cab can be lifted into place by 4 people, as can the box. Patching rust spots in the body parts is nice and easy when it is off the frame.

So....obviously if you are restoring, forget this. If you are looking for an inexpensive and quick way to get that F'er low and smooth without turning it into a squeaking, lurching deathride....get the tape measure out and get yourself to a junkyard. Uh....automotive recycling center.

 

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