Project Ecks Begins
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
The stock intake setup does need to be opened up, especially if you're towing and if you plan any performance upgrades, like a custom tune.
The 6637 is the cheapest way to do that, and it filters extremely well. It performs better because of the huge surface area that air is pulled from.
Stewart
Last edited by Stewart_H; Mar 29, 2013 at 12:57 AM.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 348
Likes: 1
From: Owensboro, KY
Im thinking about the 6637 Air Filter mod. The latest kit has the dust cover. It just seems its being starved for air.
Any comments on this? Go, no go??
My worries are underhood air, sensors, filter minder (saw the mod) and a big unsupported filter bouncing around.
I started by looking at the high dollar filters with the 'box' around it. Not sure I want to spend $300 plus on it though. Was thinking about making my own box from a cheap plastic battery box but the 6637 filter seems so big.
Opinions welcome.
Thanks.
JC
Any comments on this? Go, no go??
My worries are underhood air, sensors, filter minder (saw the mod) and a big unsupported filter bouncing around.
I started by looking at the high dollar filters with the 'box' around it. Not sure I want to spend $300 plus on it though. Was thinking about making my own box from a cheap plastic battery box but the 6637 filter seems so big.
Opinions welcome.
Thanks.
JC
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
Ok, so this morning I had the muffler replaced with a pipe. It sounds great and sends more of the noise out the back instead of into the cab. Its still fairly quiet too and only cost me $40!
I ordered the 6637 from RiffRaff so that will go on next week.
I figured out my keyless code, took 3 minutes, it was in the 5th line of codes.
On my way to the dealer for the headlamp switch ****, a running board lamp socket and a CPS.
On the way home I'll pick up a new belt and the upper hose that goes around it instead of through it. <-- Why we did that I'll never know. The service engineer should have killed it....must have missed that meeting.
I love this site and thank you guys for all the help. Reps coming!!!
JC
I ordered the 6637 from RiffRaff so that will go on next week.
I figured out my keyless code, took 3 minutes, it was in the 5th line of codes.
On my way to the dealer for the headlamp switch ****, a running board lamp socket and a CPS.
On the way home I'll pick up a new belt and the upper hose that goes around it instead of through it. <-- Why we did that I'll never know. The service engineer should have killed it....must have missed that meeting.
I love this site and thank you guys for all the help. Reps coming!!!
JC
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Before you go, check to see if you still have the original black CPS, or if it's already been replaced with a grey one.
If you have the black CPS, and their computer shows the CPS recall is still outstanding, they'll take your black one and replace it with a grey one. Don't let them do that because they won't let you keep the black one, and that's the one you want.
Stewart
If you have the black CPS, and their computer shows the CPS recall is still outstanding, they'll take your black one and replace it with a grey one. Don't let them do that because they won't let you keep the black one, and that's the one you want.
Stewart
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
Before you go, check to see if you still have the original black CPS, or if it's already been replaced with a grey one.
If you have the black CPS, and their computer shows the CPS recall is still outstanding, they'll take your black one and replace it with a grey one. Don't let them do that because they won't let you keep the black one, and that's the one you want.
Stewart
If you have the black CPS, and their computer shows the CPS recall is still outstanding, they'll take your black one and replace it with a grey one. Don't let them do that because they won't let you keep the black one, and that's the one you want.
Stewart
What application is the upper rad hose that goes around the belt instead of through it?
I took apart the rear hatch to fix the ajar issue. Very easy. Wow were they dirty. This will be a yearly thing for me.
Also did the fog lamp mod.
And, last but not least for the day, my wife drove it and likes it. Now Im in trouble. hahaha
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Stewart
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
Stopping on the way home today for the belt and hose.
Noticed something this morning. Fired it up and got blasted in the face, so to speak, with exhaust fumes. Thinking it could be a couple of different things: I park with the exhaust side aiming toward a fence, could be blowing back in a bad rear window seal....or.....the downpipe is not tight on the turbo and its coming in through the firewall or vents. Im thinking the latter as it was almost instant. Going to do some close inspection when I get home, cant have this continue. Any experience or tips appreciated.
I've also been seeing mods regarding the fuel bypass/return. I was looking at the RiffRaff kit. Do this now or it can wait?? Seems like an affordable upgrade.
This evening I will be pulling the cluster to deal with the lighting. Will also look at the shifter stalk wiring and adding protection as suggested.
JC
Noticed something this morning. Fired it up and got blasted in the face, so to speak, with exhaust fumes. Thinking it could be a couple of different things: I park with the exhaust side aiming toward a fence, could be blowing back in a bad rear window seal....or.....the downpipe is not tight on the turbo and its coming in through the firewall or vents. Im thinking the latter as it was almost instant. Going to do some close inspection when I get home, cant have this continue. Any experience or tips appreciated.
I've also been seeing mods regarding the fuel bypass/return. I was looking at the RiffRaff kit. Do this now or it can wait?? Seems like an affordable upgrade.
This evening I will be pulling the cluster to deal with the lighting. Will also look at the shifter stalk wiring and adding protection as suggested.
JC
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
Isnt that what this is? The relay I mean. I know the thing to the left is the module......
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: Parker, CO
I had the door ajar problem when I bought our 2003 6l diesel a few months ago. Pretty sure the rear hatch was the culprit.
Two things:
1. if the hatch slams hard, the lifts need to be replaced. That will help with the door ajar issue.
2. I sprayed a lot of WD40 (it will make a mess so have paper towel handy to catch all the liquid) in both sides of the hatch where the latches are. The sensors for the door ajar are in the latches. Same with all four doors.
I sprayed the latches for all four doors and both the left and right hatch latches, replaced the lifts and the problem went away.
Two things:
1. if the hatch slams hard, the lifts need to be replaced. That will help with the door ajar issue.
2. I sprayed a lot of WD40 (it will make a mess so have paper towel handy to catch all the liquid) in both sides of the hatch where the latches are. The sensors for the door ajar are in the latches. Same with all four doors.
I sprayed the latches for all four doors and both the left and right hatch latches, replaced the lifts and the problem went away.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
OK, gotcha. Didn't have a flashlight to follow the wires. Thanks.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
I had the door ajar problem when I bought our 2003 6l diesel a few months ago. Pretty sure the rear hatch was the culprit.
Two things:
1. if the hatch slams hard, the lifts need to be replaced. That will help with the door ajar issue.
2. I sprayed a lot of WD40 (it will make a mess so have paper towel handy to catch all the liquid) in both sides of the hatch where the latches are. The sensors for the door ajar are in the latches. Same with all four doors.
I sprayed the latches for all four doors and both the left and right hatch latches, replaced the lifts and the problem went away.
Two things:
1. if the hatch slams hard, the lifts need to be replaced. That will help with the door ajar issue.
2. I sprayed a lot of WD40 (it will make a mess so have paper towel handy to catch all the liquid) in both sides of the hatch where the latches are. The sensors for the door ajar are in the latches. Same with all four doors.
I sprayed the latches for all four doors and both the left and right hatch latches, replaced the lifts and the problem went away.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
On another note, I found a pair of new SD front springs for $100!! Im going to double check the part number but the application is spot on for what they were originally purchased for. Major score!