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Dash gauges

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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 08:35 AM
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Dash gauges

Having a long term problem with my dash gages. When I first finished the truck my fuel and volt gages would not read right.The fuel gage needle would not stay in one place.It would bounce around,I thought that it was because there are no baffles in the tank that as the truck was moving the float would move and change the reading.But it does the same thing even when stopped.The volt gage shows 14 volts when running,but will go up to 16-18 then back to 14.When I first started driving it I thought the alt was bad {1 Wire Gm } and replaced it when it pegged the gage,New alt would do the same thing,as they came from auto zone I thought,junk.So I went for a good brand [ Delco].Same thing,Then I tried new gages,no difference.I have put a meter on and it shows 13-14 volts,so the problem is in wires or gages.It has a EZ wire harness.I know that Ford cars used to have a voltage regulator behind the dash that controlled the gages.Do I need one of these or is there something else I should look fr?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by DR Smith
Having a long term problem with my dash gages. When I first finished the truck my fuel and volt gages would not read right.The fuel gage needle would not stay in one place.It would bounce around,I thought that it was because there are no baffles in the tank that as the truck was moving the float would move and change the reading.But it does the same thing even when stopped.The volt gage shows 14 volts when running,but will go up to 16-18 then back to 14.When I first started driving it I thought the alt was bad {1 Wire Gm } and replaced it when it pegged the gage,New alt would do the same thing,as they came from auto zone I thought,junk.So I went for a good brand [ Delco].Same thing,Then I tried new gages,no difference.I have put a meter on and it shows 13-14 volts,so the problem is in wires or gages.It has a EZ wire harness.

I know that Ford cars used to have a voltage regulator behind the dash that controlled the gauges. Do I need one of these or is there something else I should look for?
ICVR ~ Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator: 1957 and later Passenger Cars/Trucks, no parts catalog applications for 1956 or earlier / 1957/91: There are 11 different types.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 09:28 AM
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My truck is a 1954 but it has a 72 351w and all electrics have been changed,Nothing is stock.So why where voltage regulators used after 57?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 10:00 AM
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Ford still used 6v gauges after they went to 12v, so they need the ICR. Are your gauges stock? or aftermarket?

Does your 1-wire go directly to the battery? Is it really a 3-wire alt with jumpers to make it a 1-wire?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 03:33 PM
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Aftermarket gages,Hanley first now sunpro.I wire to battery on the alt.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 04:21 PM
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bad ground - this many electrical problems and I would highly suspect at least one bad ground (probably more)
 
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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Bryan has a good point; I ended up running a dedicated ground to the case of the alternator. It wouldn't hurt to run one from the dash gauge panel to a good ground.

With aftermarket gauges you won't need an ICR.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 09:45 AM
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Third vote for ground. I ran a heavy wire from the battery ground up behind the dash to a bus bar. Then every ground under the dash goes to the bus.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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I didn't have any funky problems with mine, but I did 2 things. Preserved the original battery to engine block / head ground (changed it for a cable instead of the woven strap though) and then grounded from head block to frame (under the battery box), and from head block to cab...
 
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