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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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390 timing

wheres a good place to set the timing on a 390? its a 1969 390 if that matters. its mostly stock except for carb, intake, hedders and cam. thanx
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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The best place to start with 390 timing is with the search engine
Let me google that for you
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 04:58 PM
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you dont have to be a jerk about it. if you dont know then you dont have to answer. if everyone used search for every question there would be no forum.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by riverguideguy
you dont have to be a jerk about it. if you dont know then you dont have to answer. if everyone used search for every question there would be no forum.
I would argue that your being the jerk .. As you can see the question has been asked many times right here on this forum and you got your answer didn't you .. if I let you get away with it next you'll be asking what air pressure you should be running in your tires .. If you think that this forum depends on someone asking what timing to run on a 390 motor your misinformed besides to set the timing you should be setting the timing with a vaccum gauge and not a timing light .. Read Classic Inlines - Tuning with a Vacuum Gage there's your answer

 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 05:15 PM
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I would start at 6 degrees before top dead center, see how it runs and maybe advance a couple of degrees more until you run into detonation.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by riverguideguy
wheres a good place to set the timing on a 390?
Where's the timing set at now?

Shoot for 36-38 degrees total, no higher.

Pull the breaker plate inside the dizzy and check the number on the advance slot, then set your initial (base timing) accordingly...

Example: with a 13L slot run 10-12 degrees of initial......with a 15L slot run 6-8 degrees of initial

(if you hear any pinging back off a few degrees)
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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in side the disributer theres two numbers 18L and 13L is this how much advance I have? how do I know which number to use?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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You really are afraid of the search engine https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1143672-original-390-fe-timing.html#post11507329

This would also be a good read for you http://www.carbdford.com/viewtopic.php?t=5543
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by riverguideguy
in side the disributer theres two numbers 18L and 13L is this how much advance I have? how do I know which number to use?
Only one of the numbered slots engages the limiting pin, i'm assuming this is the 13L slot in your case.

18L would pretty much limit you to just 2 degrees of initial advance, if you are on the 18L slot the arms can be swapped around to use the 13L slot.

13L will allow you to run up to 12 degrees of initial advance.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:12 AM
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i didnt get a chance to recheck it until this morning and i can see the little metal tab is on the 13L slot. but with my base timing at 12 degrees plus the 13L slot wouldnt that only be 25 degrees total timing
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 11:13 AM
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One thing that is an unknown at this point, is the engine a stock compression ratio ? and did the motor get a cam upgrade ? Then you can determine how the distributor should be set up ..
Establishing static advance requirement
The static advance requirement for a modified engine is very much dependent on the duration of the cam fitted. Below is a table of advance requirements and expected idle speeds for a range of cam specifications. ON NO ACCOUNT use these settings before the maximum advance on the distributor has been correctly limited.

Cam duration-----Idle speed expected------------------Advance
----270------------------600-800----------------------------10-12
----280------------------900-1000---------------------------12-14
----290------------------1000-1100-------------------------14-16
----300------------------1100-1200-------------------------16-18
----310+----------------1100-1400-------------------------18-20

When establishing static advance the golden rule is never use less than 10; never use more than 20 degrees. The engine may well tolerate more than 20 degrees at idle, but the moment the throttle is opened and cylinder filling is improved it will ping heavily. One problem often encountered when using more static advance than standard is that the engine may 'kick-back' when starting causing the starter to slow dramatically, this can be confused with a flattened battery or worn starter motor. You may need to compromise by the odd degree or two if your engine will not tolerate the required degrees of advance at start-up.
Static advance implies a measurement taken when the engine is stationery, however it is usually set at idle in order that any latency in the distributor drive gear is taken up. A rough setting can be made when the engine is still, but it MUST be set at 1300RPM or lower with the vacuum advance disconnected so that any latency is taken up and the centrifugal advance has not yet started its operation.

Establishing mechanical advance requirement
We have our desired static and maximum advance figures already calculated, so now we can use the same simple formula to establish how much centrifugal advance we need from the distributor.
Example:
Maximum advance 38 degrees, required static advance 18 degrees (38-18) = 20 degrees required.
In our example the standard distributor is designed to give maximum advance from a starting point of say 10 degrees of static advance, if the maximum advance required is 38 degrees, then it's range is 28 degrees (38-10), this means that if the static setting is increased to 18 degrees, then the total advance will be 46 degrees (18+28), way too much. It is unlikely that the standard distributor will give the correct amount of advance, it will usually give too much. This is why we must restrict the total centrifugal advance that the distributor is capable of supplying to our new figure, in this case 20 degrees, then with the static setting of 18 degrees, the maximum advance will be 38 degrees (18+20), the correct figure.
If the advance supplied is MORE than required, and this is highly likely, it means as expected that the distributor is supplying too much mechanical advance, and that the stops in the distributor must be bent to restrict the travel of the mechanism. If the advance supplied is LESS than required which is unusual, then the distributor is supplying too little mechanical advance and the stops must be filed to allow more travel of the advance mechanism.
Source : Carbed Ford Message Board :: View topic - The Ultimate Duraspark Ignition Timing Guide
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by riverguideguy
with my base timing at 12 degrees plus the 13L slot wouldnt that only be 25 degrees total timing
It's 38 degrees total timing, the number stamped on the advance slot gets multiplied x 2

Example: 13L = 26 degrees, 15L = 30 degrees, 18L = 36 degrees, so on and so forth...
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by redroad
One thing that is an unknown at this point, is the engine a stock compression ratio ? and did the motor get a cam upgrade ?
its stock compression 9.5 to 1 and the cam is a 268h or 270h the guy i bought it from couldnt remember but he thinks 268h

Originally Posted by montana_highboy
It's 38 degrees total timing, the number stamped on the advance slot gets multiplied x 2
ahhh I gotcha now. that makes more sence then 25 degrees so i should just leave it on 13L right?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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@riverguideguy
its stock compression 9.5 to 1 and the cam is a 268h or 270h the guy i bought it from couldnt remember but he thinks 268h
If that's the stock compression ratio it's not a stock 73-77 truck 390 ..
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by redroad
@riverguideguy
If that's the stock compression ratio it's not a stock 73-77 truck 390 ..
its a 1969 car 390
 
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