No voltage at either window switch.
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projectSHO89, Felt well enough today to go out and check out some more circuits. I took out CJB4 and tested for continuity between it's line side and ADR86. I actually got continuity between them while in ACC. for a minute or two but then it went away. I tried this several times, sometimes getting continuity and sometimes not. I did notice that even though there was continuity there was never ground to line voltage at ADR86. If I were to put the meter between ADR86 and the line side of CJB4 I would get line voltage. Any ideas.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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From: St Louis
Make certain you're on the LOAD side of the fuse, not the LINE side. Inadvertently checking an energized circuit for continuity is usually a precursor to buying a new meter.
You should have continuity between the LOAD side of CJB F4 and ADR # 86 all the time, there should be absolutely no change with regard to the ignition switch setting.
You'll need to break the larger circuit between those two points down and check each individual section. Post #11.
You should have continuity between the LOAD side of CJB F4 and ADR # 86 all the time, there should be absolutely no change with regard to the ignition switch setting.
You'll need to break the larger circuit between those two points down and check each individual section. Post #11.
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I'll double check ADR86 to load side of CJB4. I'm sure that I checked it tonight but I'll confirm it. As for these designators "CJB C242a-18 (LG/YE) & CJB C242a-32" are these the large connectors on the back of the fuse panel, pin connectors or something else. I looked around the fuse panel tonight and didn't see anything with those designators. LG/YE means Large/Yellow correct.Thanks
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Checked dome light and found it to be working. Pulled the fuse panel all the way out and put it on the workbench. Checked for continuity between ADR86 and all blade terminals on the fuse panel. found no continuity anywhere except on one of the terminals for the GEM (fourth from left bottom when looking from back of unit with GEM terminals on top )where I got 75ohms. Tried this With CJB4 in and out. Is it possible that there is a burned out link in the fuse panel?
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From: St Louis
"Dome light" wasn't on the list in post #8. Please check the named lights to be sure.
Sure, it's quite possible. Your results indicate it is probable. If the check of "CJB C242a-32 > ADR #86 (internal connection)" is open, then it is confirmed.
If so, you can either replace the CJB, "McGuyver" it by installing a jumper or two, or open the CJB up and attempt an internal repair.
Sure, it's quite possible. Your results indicate it is probable. If the check of "CJB C242a-32 > ADR #86 (internal connection)" is open, then it is confirmed.
If so, you can either replace the CJB, "McGuyver" it by installing a jumper or two, or open the CJB up and attempt an internal repair.
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Opened up the fuse box which is not for the faint of heart! found that water had gotten into the panel and rusted through buss bar #37. So it's time to patch the bar or buy another box! Thanks, for all the help!
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"oops!"
Is there supposed to be a contact going down into the board there, or is it just a straight pass that can be patched? If it's a straight pass I bet you could slide a tab of metal (copper, etc.) under each end of the broken run (after you've cleaned it up, of course) and solder it up with reliable results.
Good luck with it if you decide to repair ... looking forward to a pic of your handiwork when it's done!
Regards,
Is there supposed to be a contact going down into the board there, or is it just a straight pass that can be patched? If it's a straight pass I bet you could slide a tab of metal (copper, etc.) under each end of the broken run (after you've cleaned it up, of course) and solder it up with reliable results.
Good luck with it if you decide to repair ... looking forward to a pic of your handiwork when it's done!
Regards,
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That section that I'm pointing at just passes through. By the time I posted that picture I already had it repaired. It ended up being easier to repair than I had imagined. Just happened that I had a small flat piece of copper that was the same thickness of the original buss bar. I laid out the length of that section and then cut the patch wider than the original. I ground down the burned edges and cleaned it up.I laid it out on the flat side of an old Chrysler Head and held it down with some metal brake fingers. I took the torch out and heated up all the parts and then laid a couple of passes of nice silver solder (the type used to braze up refrigeration pipes) over the repair. I then added some more heat to level out the repair.
I then got out the hand grinder and roughed out the correct shape. I finished it off by using the hand file. The critical part is the length. I just hit it right the first time. Unfortunately the battery in my phone was dead so I didn't get any pictures of the splice.
Now it's time for the next project! Pulling the windshield to repair the leak that caused all this! Got any tips? Thanks for the help it's greatly appreciated.
I then got out the hand grinder and roughed out the correct shape. I finished it off by using the hand file. The critical part is the length. I just hit it right the first time. Unfortunately the battery in my phone was dead so I didn't get any pictures of the splice.
Now it's time for the next project! Pulling the windshield to repair the leak that caused all this! Got any tips? Thanks for the help it's greatly appreciated.
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That section that I'm pointing at just passes through. By the time I posted that picture I already had it repaired. It ended up being easier to repair than I had imagined. Just happened that I had a small flat piece of copper that was the same thickness of the original buss bar. I laid out the length of that section and then cut the patch wider than the original. I ground down the burned edges and cleaned it up.I laid it out on the flat side of an old Chrysler Head and held it down with some metal brake fingers. I took the torch out and heated up all the parts and then laid a couple of passes of nice silver solder (the type used to braze up refrigeration pipes) over the repair. I then added some more heat to level out the repair.
I then got out the hand grinder and roughed out the correct shape. I finished it off by using the hand file. The critical part is the length. I just hit it right the first time. Unfortunately the battery in my phone was dead so I didn't get any pictures of the splice.
Now it's time for the next project! Pulling the windshield to repair the leak that caused all this! Got any tips? Thanks for the help it's greatly appreciated.
I then got out the hand grinder and roughed out the correct shape. I finished it off by using the hand file. The critical part is the length. I just hit it right the first time. Unfortunately the battery in my phone was dead so I didn't get any pictures of the splice.
Now it's time for the next project! Pulling the windshield to repair the leak that caused all this! Got any tips? Thanks for the help it's greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Cameronsgobuggy; Apr 25, 2013 at 03:30 PM. Reason: repeat
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