fuel pump replacement
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
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From: Little Rock, AR
fuel pump replacement
I recently discovered a fuel leak at the base of the fuel pump. I cleaned up the valley real good and checked all the hoses and and there didn't seem to be any fuel leaking out of them. It seems to be coming right out of the very bottom of the fuel pump it self. My logic tells me the pump needs to be replaced. Looks fairly simple, just disconect the supply line, return line and the two lines that go to the injectors, then remove the bolts that hold it down to the block. Is there anything I'm missing? anything I need to do afterwards like bleed the lines for example? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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Correct. Tdc...BUT when you go to install the new 1,roll the engine by hand till u can push the tandem lifter pump in place by hand......DO NOT let the bolts pull the pump into place. You will break the pump. Trust me on this. Ive dun broke 1. And there a pain in the ace to pull out
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
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From: Little Rock, AR
thanks, all this will help alot, I am new at this so bare with me, but I still don't know when the engine is at TDC. Also I read in another post that the banjo bolt on the turbo can get in the way. and that I may have to remove the fuel bowl to get at it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
"Engine at TDC" usually refers to the position of piston #1. But that's not really relevant. You want to turn it so the lobe that activates the fuel pump is at its peak. The way to do that is to loosen/remove the pump mounting bolts, then turn the engine by hand. The rising lobe, instead of operating the pump as it usually does, will push the pump up out of its bore in the top of the block. When the pump stops rising, that lobe is at its peak. This will allow you to remove the pump and retrieve the rod without it falling into the block.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 14
From: Vale, NC
You'll need a 1.25" wrench to get the banjo bolt off. I found it to be a pain in the butt, because you only get a little movement with each turn. Mine was an open/box end wrench and the box end worked slowly. I've heard of taking the pump out without removing the fuel basket. Wouldn't want to try it myself but I suppose it can be done. If you pull the basket you migh want to replace the o-rings in there too. dieselorings.com makes a great kit for the basket with excellent instructions. I just did the pump and orings about 3 weeks ago and it took about 5 hours start to finish.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Little Rock, AR
"Engine at TDC" usually refers to the position of piston #1. But that's not really relevant. You want to turn it so the lobe that activates the fuel pump is at its peak. The way to do that is to loosen/remove the pump mounting bolts, then turn the engine by hand. The rising lobe, instead of operating the pump as it usually does, will push the pump up out of its bore in the top of the block. When the pump stops rising, that lobe is at its peak. This will allow you to remove the pump and retrieve the rod without it falling into the block.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Little Rock, AR
You'll need a 1.25" wrench to get the banjo bolt off. I found it to be a pain in the butt, because you only get a little movement with each turn. Mine was an open/box end wrench and the box end worked slowly. I've heard of taking the pump out without removing the fuel basket. Wouldn't want to try it myself but I suppose it can be done. If you pull the basket you migh want to replace the o-rings in there too. dieselorings.com makes a great kit for the basket with excellent instructions. I just did the pump and orings about 3 weeks ago and it took about 5 hours start to finish.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
Likes: 18
From: Livoina,La
You'll need a 1.25" wrench to get the banjo bolt off. I found it to be a pain in the butt, because you only get a little movement with each turn. Mine was an open/box end wrench and the box end worked slowly. I've heard of taking the pump out without removing the fuel basket. Wouldn't want to try it myself but I suppose it can be done. If you pull the basket you migh want to replace the o-rings in there too. dieselorings.com makes a great kit for the basket with excellent instructions. I just did the pump and orings about 3 weeks ago and it took about 5 hours start to finish.
I did my pump on a hot engine in a hour and fourty five mins.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 14
From: Vale, NC
I never, ever claimed to be a good mechanic! Lol. In my defense, I did also rebuild the fuel basket and it was thirty degrees outside....and a blizzard...and I had to walk uphill both ways...and I'm left-handed. You know how hard it is to find left-handed wrenches?kn