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No Start w/codes and AE....HELP!!

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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 08:52 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by robbragiel
Try putting some heat to it then pb blaster.
Uh... careful with that heat thing. The turbo pedestal has the EBPV valve with seals, there's oil everywhere, there's O-rings, there's a spindle seal... but mostly there's oil. Try shocking it. Nothing makes you feel better than smacking someting around. If you have an impact socket and a breaker-type driver, this would be a safer way to transfer a shock. These guys made me buy a torque wrench for 16 lousy bolts, I'm just passing on the misery.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 09:23 PM
  #92  
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You'll be fine putting some heat to it. just dont leave it on there to where you will melt it. Pb is flammable, that turbo gets very very hot so u will be fine.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 11:38 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by robbragiel
I've never heard of to many buzz test being bad. Aint they buzzing when the truck is running or is that totally different?
Yeah, it is different. It is good practice not to run the buzz test any more than necessary. It is a bit hard on the IDM every time that test is run. That is why the other seven injectors soft buzz at the same time as the hard buzz....it a method designed to protect the module in case one or more injector circuits are open. They don't want the signal to back feed to the module or it could damage something.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:28 AM
  #94  
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Ok I've been hard at work without much for brakes, I want to get this thing back on the road!! lol I got the bolts off after a few more beers an a bit more power, no heat needed!! Got all the old stuff off and the new ups on and the turbo with the new wheel all back in.

That's it for today. Ill be back at it in the morning now with all the hard stuff done so hopefully she'll b all back together by mid afternoon.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 05:48 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Shake-N-Bake
Yeah, it is different. It is good practice not to run the buzz test any more than necessary. It is a bit hard on the IDM every time that test is run. That is why the other seven injectors soft buzz at the same time as the hard buzz....it a method designed to protect the module in case one or more injector circuits are open. They don't want the signal to back feed to the module or it could damage something.
Thanks for that info Greg, I did not know that. Learn something new every day.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 09:43 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by Shake-N-Bake
Yeah, it is different. It is good practice not to run the buzz test any more than necessary. It is a bit hard on the IDM every time that test is run. That is why the other seven injectors soft buzz at the same time as the hard buzz....it a method designed to protect the module in case one or more injector circuits are open. They don't want the signal to back feed to the module or it could damage something.
Thanks Greg, like Rob said I learn something new every day. I would have thought it might be hard on the injector solenoids. I hadn't thought about the IDM. So thank you for sharing that information!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:35 PM
  #97  
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Well Im slow to get at it this morning, before starting all this I figured "hell I'm young I can just through a couple towels over the engine bay to lay on and I'll be fine", well that too is starting to get to me. My entire upper body is "bruise like" sore!! Two days of this is starting to get to me so I'm even more glad I sucked it up last night and got the turbo back on and got the up pipe collector (probably the hardest thing) and exhaust hooked back up.

I may be investing in a top side creeper or at the very least one of those U-haul moving blankets that was suggested in the WW install sticky thread!!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:59 PM
  #98  
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Or you can get one of those outdoor furniture pads that they have on chairs or love seats from lowes or HD. I myself will invest in a topside creeper. Young or old it will get the best of you after a couple days laying on the eng with no padding.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 04:41 PM
  #99  
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Go her all put back together. She fired right up and seems to be running just fine, so I pulled the good IDM and switched with my IDM and still wont start. I didn't run a buzz test but I think its safe to say I need a new IDM. So I will order one tomorrow and probably next day it cause I want my damn truck back!!!

I should also mention that this is all still without the tuner plugged into the PCM. I'm going to put the tuner back in to make sure that it still runs good and to confirm there are no problems with that as well.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #100  
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Good job glad you got it all back together and running. Feels good you didnt spend hundreds at a dealer.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 06:44 PM
  #101  
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Congrats! Ooo... you're gunna have some fun.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 06:50 PM
  #102  
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Oh it definitely does!! Took her out for a test run and everything seemed to do ok, minus my hot side IC tube blowing off the spider twice , so far so good!!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 06:58 PM
  #103  
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So maybe a stupid question but do the IC pipes have to slide in so the clamp is on the outside of the ridge?? Seemed to me like the IC side boots were too long and the spider side were too short!?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 07:58 PM
  #104  
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Yes the clamp needs to be on the outside of the ridge, if not they will blow off.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:37 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by tdpower
Here is a pretty good deal on ebay if you need an idm. Verify the part number but that should be it. I would try to find a used one over re-manufactured. Some people have had problems with the re-man...ones.

Ford Injector Driver Module IDM Part 2C24 12B599 AB | eBay

Somebody got a good deal on the IDM.
 
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