Sounds the same turning over and all. Guess I'll start pulling the IDM, and test the harness and go from there.
No Start w/codes and AE....HELP!!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Right now the PCM is sending a 0.41 ms FPW signal to the IDM which means it was unable to sync. Since you are reading RPM signal, I presume the CPS is working so that isn't causing the sync failure.....
If the IDM relay was bad, you would still get a 1-6 ms FPW signal generated so that isn't the fault either....
The failed buzz test is concerning.
If the IDM relay was bad, you would still get a 1-6 ms FPW signal generated so that isn't the fault either....
The failed buzz test is concerning.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
I have data from running trucks that show this and an even shorter PW, plus one set showing .1 and .2 MPH at WOT in gear. There is a bug in the software or something akin to that (PW slipped by one decimal, indicating we might have 4.1ms here). I'm not saying you're not correct, I'm just saying we can't count on that number being accurate. I also agree with yanking the tuner... we just solved another no-start that way today.
Agreed. I can only assume the data is correct. If not, then disregard all my comments.
A PW value around 0.9 or lower and a running engine is not possible according to my understanding of how these systems function.
I am not familiar with the OPs tuner but I do know that Bully Dog chips and programmers as well as some TS style chips can give false data via AE so I always start with removing the chip whenever diagnosing engine issues. The OPs issue could be as simple as having the tuner in a "No start" position or possibly an issue with the switcher cable...
So far, I have not been able to find any PIDs with inaccurate values while using any of my PHP chips. However with the equipment that I have, all I am able to check are the various sensor values.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 483
Likes: 1
From: Washington
No I have not pulled the tuner yet. I figured at some point I would need to but didn't know it could interfere with test results. Ive tried the tuner in every setting it has so I don't think its in "no start" but who knows. Im going to go out and pull the tuner right now (between ungodly spring rain showers).
If the truck still wont start should I do another test before I pull the IDM?? I do plan on pulling the VC's to check things out, but at this point only because I have to pull my turbo an stuff for new ups and boots once I get this no start figured out.
Thanks for all the help!!
If the truck still wont start should I do another test before I pull the IDM?? I do plan on pulling the VC's to check things out, but at this point only because I have to pull my turbo an stuff for new ups and boots once I get this no start figured out.
Thanks for all the help!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 49
From: Tennessee
Did you try to pull codes after you yanked the chip ? Do that next . An IDM will usually set a code if bad , In my experiance .
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 483
Likes: 1
From: Washington
Yeah Ill do that first an see if anything new comes up!! Just looked up some Youtube videos on how to get to the IDM and its seems very simple, but I will say at this point I hope its the IDM and not something in the injector harness!!
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 483
Likes: 1
From: Washington
Did another live data meter without the chip and all the numbers are pretty close to the same but now my Fuel Injector Pulse Width is from .28ms to .26ms on a steady line.
Should I do another buzz test as well???
Should I do another buzz test as well???
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
Odd that the PW value changed when you removed the chip. Did it feel loose when you removed it?
The KAM code occurs when the PCM loses power. You removed the keys from the ignition when messing with the PCM and chip....correct?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 483
Likes: 1
From: Washington
When dealing with IDM codes....you must clear codes first and then run the buzz and KOEO tests. Now is a good time to clear and re-run the tests.
Odd that the PW value changed when you removed the chip. Did it feel loose when you removed it?
The KAM code occurs when the PCM loses power. You removed the keys from the ignition when messing with the PCM and chip....correct?
Odd that the PW value changed when you removed the chip. Did it feel loose when you removed it?
The KAM code occurs when the PCM loses power. You removed the keys from the ignition when messing with the PCM and chip....correct?
Chip did not feel loose to me at all.So heres what I did and what I found. Pulled the fender out and removed the harness from the IDM. Then I followed the link you gave me an my results were:
Test #1
-23 to 22- Open
-23 to 7-11.9ohms
-23 to 19-11.7ohms
-23 to 9-Open
-24 to 6-3.7ohms
-24 to 21-3.3ohms
-24 to 8-3.2ohms
-24 to 20-3.5ohms
Test#2 Both Open "OL"
Test#3 Both Open "OL"
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
Suspect problem in the left bank wiring.
Now open the 42 pin connector and test again. Use the photo that Tugly posted. Pin 23 is L+.
If you get good ohm readings on all four injector circuits then your problem is in the harness from the IDM to the engine. If the readings are the same then remove the driver's side valve cover and see what you find.
Edit: pin 23 is D+
Pin 22 is injector #2
Pin 7 is injector #4
Pin 19 is injector #6
Pin 9 is injector #8
Now open the 42 pin connector and test again. Use the photo that Tugly posted. Pin 23 is L+.
If you get good ohm readings on all four injector circuits then your problem is in the harness from the IDM to the engine. If the readings are the same then remove the driver's side valve cover and see what you find.
Edit: pin 23 is D+
Pin 22 is injector #2
Pin 7 is injector #4
Pin 19 is injector #6
Pin 9 is injector #8