No Start w/codes and AE....HELP!!
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
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You might try a 1/4 socket wrench if you have one.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Mesa AZ
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
of the VC. When you go to put the VC back on, always start with the firewall bolt and use the hand that matches the side you're on: Left side, left hand to start the bolt.
Passenger side is the killer, particularly on the Ex. Go to Sears and get yourself a 13mm flex socket, or go to Walgreens and get yourself some asperin
[LINK]
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
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Number 4 injector solenoid might cause a problem. I would clean the 42 pin connection for it and retest also test at the 9 pin. A borderline injector solenoid can cause the whole bank to shut down. Something to keep in mind if you have problems with that side.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Washington
Well fingers crossed everything is looking good now! 
.25cents down .25 to go.
Still wondering about running the truck without the IC boots and intake though? Should I put those back on before test fire??
EDIT: Apparently my lap top is slow as hell out here in the shop!! I was able to get the last bolt with a deep 13 and a swivel adapter in 3/8. I did have to cut a little of the heat shield stuff away though but not much. Once I get the other side done I will hook everything up and test fire.
What do you use to clean the 42 pin connector with?? Which is pin 9?? Are you referring to the IDM or 42??
.25cents down .25 to go.Still wondering about running the truck without the IC boots and intake though? Should I put those back on before test fire??
EDIT: Apparently my lap top is slow as hell out here in the shop!! I was able to get the last bolt with a deep 13 and a swivel adapter in 3/8. I did have to cut a little of the heat shield stuff away though but not much. Once I get the other side done I will hook everything up and test fire.
What do you use to clean the 42 pin connector with?? Which is pin 9?? Are you referring to the IDM or 42??
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
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Like Rob said the 9 pin on the outside of the valve cover. Test I to c and glow plug to ground . The pins will be arranged like this:
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G
G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed
You should read about .4-2 ohms for glow plugs and want to see consistent reading for I to C
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G
G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed
You should read about .4-2 ohms for glow plugs and want to see consistent reading for I to C
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
Contact cleaner spray, compressed air, and a dab of dielectric grease on the face of the part without the pins. Do this on all connectors and you'll be restoring them to factory fresh.
I've run Stinky many times with no VCs on and turbo completely open (idle only). Just make absolutely certain no shop towels, rags, kleenex, or cobwebs are nearby. If the dog is shedding, keep that away too. There is a tiny black hole in the turbo that sucks all matter/energy (including sunlight) within 3 feet of it. If you drop a plastic bag in the bed of the truck, I swear it will find its way into the turbo. Don't even look at the damn thing... it may tempt you to point at it and you'll lose a fingernail.
I've run Stinky many times with no VCs on and turbo completely open (idle only). Just make absolutely certain no shop towels, rags, kleenex, or cobwebs are nearby. If the dog is shedding, keep that away too. There is a tiny black hole in the turbo that sucks all matter/energy (including sunlight) within 3 feet of it. If you drop a plastic bag in the bed of the truck, I swear it will find its way into the turbo. Don't even look at the damn thing... it may tempt you to point at it and you'll lose a fingernail.
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Senior User
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From: Washington
Ok so I checked the 9 pins and both ohm out perfect. Problem is now that I have the 50 cent mod done and ready to try to fire im not getting any readings from the 42 pin to the 1,3,5,7 (pass side) injectors but 2,4,6,8 test just fine. Am I missing something??
EDIT: Um duh, I tested them using the D+....they tested out just fine!!
EDIT: Um duh, I tested them using the D+....they tested out just fine!!
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Senior User
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From: Washington
So I still have nothing!!
.....put all the connectors back together double and triple checked everything 9pin ohms good, 42 pin ohms good, IDM harness ohms good, and still nothing.
When I put it back on AE I cleared all the codes and did a KOEO and got nothing. Then did a buzz test again and still no "buzz" and codes for open right bank and open left bank!!
What's going on now?? Is it the IDM itself or a relay for the IDM?? I checked all the fuses under the dash and still none are blown.
.....put all the connectors back together double and triple checked everything 9pin ohms good, 42 pin ohms good, IDM harness ohms good, and still nothing.When I put it back on AE I cleared all the codes and did a KOEO and got nothing. Then did a buzz test again and still no "buzz" and codes for open right bank and open left bank!!
What's going on now?? Is it the IDM itself or a relay for the IDM?? I checked all the fuses under the dash and still none are blown.
Postmaster
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Washington
Tin nut is tight on the IPR and I pulled the ICP connector before I tore into and it didn't start, but I haven't tried that since tear down.
I will pull the IDM and see what it looks like.
I will pull the IDM and see what it looks like.