I might die waiting for people to help me over in the ranchero forum so please forgive me for posting over here.

So, about my '79 Ranchero...

The mechanical parts between the key cylinder and rod running down the column wore out. After much tinkering, pushing, and pulling, I've decided to alter the wiring to eliminate the key altogether. I'm sure there are a thousand better ways to go about this, but this is the fix I'm going with so please work with me .
Past issues lead me to create a push-button start, so that already exists. I'm thinking I can leave the rod in its forward-most (run) position and I'm almost good to go. I just need to know which two wires to disconnect from that big harness on top of the steering column and run to an on/off switch so I can turn the car off and (of course) back on, prior to firing up with my push-button.

Hopefully my simple reasoning will work, but I may be ignorant of glaring complications - let me know. Thanks!

 

I'm a little confused; is your goal to leave the original ignition switch in place and connected, or bypass it completely?

Ranchero wire colors are similar to sedans, which are a little different than trucks. Here's a very rudimentary wiring diagram from AutoZone's website for the paths into and out of the ignition switch (top center). What's not shown is a BLACK with GREEN stripe hot-in-ACCY wire that feeds accessory loads like the radio or windshield wipers. The diagram does not indicate what color hot-in-RUN wiring runs to the back of the fuse panel for items like the blower motor, backup lamps or turn signals. This diagram is intended to show how the ignition and charging systems route through the ignition switch.

In terms of the ignition system, RED with a BLUE stripe is hot-in-START and serves as the trigger signal for the starter solenoid, but also branches off as the START-retard signal for the ignition module (WHITE). ORANGE with a BLUE stripe (I am reluctant to believe that is the actual color) should be hot-in-RUN power to the ignition module, which also branches off to power the coil through a ballast resistor (1.1 ohm). This hot-in-RUN signal also runs to the voltage regulator (the connection to the regulator should be different based on whether the vehicle has an ALT light or an ammeter; the diagram is incomplete in that regard). You will also notice that the ignition coil has a direct connection to the ignition switch which I believe is the coil's START-bypass signal (hot-in-START) but the diagram seems to imply it is also RED with a GREEN stripe. The two YELLOW wires are heavy gauge and are hot-at-all-times power directly from the battery. These get routed to the different circuits based on the position of the key.

 

Hi Ericanthem,

I found these wiring diagrams with a Google search...
| Repair Guides | Wiring Diagrams | Wiring Diagrams | AutoZone.com

Those might be of some use. With your mods, you will need the toggle for on / off but I think you will me missing the park inter-lock or safety mechanism that you would want to retain. Could be a problem if you have inspection in your area or if others could drive your car. While no expert on Rancheros I'd say the chances of finding similar parts that are not worn out from a salvage yard might be a better approach...

Good luck

 

Thanks! My best guess is to insert two switches - one in each fat yellow wire before they reach the column. That'll also complicate starting for anti theft - "what dummy would have two 'on' switches?"

Think it'll work?

PS- kikkup - you're probably right. if I don't drive this puppy to 7-11 tonight, I'll head down to the junk yard tomorrow.

 

I highly recommend that you not do this. The reason there are two wires is to split the load current between the two, to keep the wire gauge to a reasonable size. If you wire them with separate switches and if at any point in time one of the switches fails or you (or anyone else) forgets to turn them both on, all of the load current will pass through the remaining wire and cook it.

 

"I highly recommend that you not do this. The reason there are two wires..."

Ah-ha! That's why these forums are such a god-send... you know your stuff... I shall heed your advice for sure. Can you think of a solution that is similar in effect, but not so disaster prone?

 

Am I correct in assuming that your goal is to emulate the functionality of the ignition switch with some toggle switches, and just bypass all of the ignition cylinder and actuator business?

If so, all you'd need to do is replace the different switch functions of the ignition switch with toggle switches. For the hot-in-START function, you would use a double-pole, single-throw switch (one pole for the starter solenoid / start retard, another pole for the coil start bypass). For hot-in-RUN you would use a single-pole, single-throw switch. You could then determine how you'd like to handle accessory loads (do you want a separate switch for these or not).

I hope you don't mind me sharing some advice. It's tough for this kind of fix to come out clean and reliable. The wiring coming in and out of the ignition switch is thick and requires proper crimps. If at all possible, I would spend just a little more time seeing what it would take to fix the factory setup. If the ignition switch is bad, you should be able to get an aftermarket replacement at most parts stores. Not much should have gone wrong with the actuator rod. If there are issues with the tumbler, you might try pulling it apart to see what's wrong (maybe it just needs greased). If not, you might try seeing if you can get replacement parts at a junkyard (stuff from an LTD II or Cougar might work), or there are places like Green Sales that sell original Ford parts. Ignition switches and fuse panels are two things that you really want to try and not touch if you don't have to.

 

Yes, (fmc400) that's the basic idea. I know what you're saying about the possible mess. My thought that was by leaving the rod in the run position, I could avoid pretty much all complications if I could figure out which one wire would turn everything off/on with a switch inserted. As for starting, the push-button already in place just simulates jumping the solenoid poles. I have a special love for goofy but highly functional (kinda like a '79 Ranchero! Ha!). You should see the plumbing for my pool pump/filter. It's awesome!