I had another posting but it was titled drive side door locks so I'm going to start this one to continue on with my questions.

I picked up a 1993 351 truck motor that I plan on dropping into this truck. I'm looking at motor mounts since I don't think I'm willing to make my own like I see other people do, I was looking at the two different kind I found in the parts catalogs. One is the tubular bar what is like a cross member and the other just go on the sides of the frame and look to be open at the bottom. Any pros/cons with either of these?

Thanks
Garret

 

The tubular engine mounts with the poly bushings always look cooler than a plain ol' steel mount but they both do the same thing as far as I'm concerned and that is to keep the motor from dragging the ground. Unless your building for show, go for the steel units they are normally cheaper.

Thats my opinion and not to be confused with know how. hehe

 

Ignore the last part of the last post - he is a master at fabrication and an inspiration to most of us.

I made my own (289) bolt-on frame mounts. The tubular are supposed to be universal, but sometimes take a little tweaking to get to fit (nothing major though). They can also cause clearance problems depending on which front suspension you are using (including stock with drop springs or axle).

 

89gtstang, I have both motor mounts. check out my thread. I'm using the tubular motor mounts, so I have an extra set of the open metal ones just laying around if u want them. I have a 351w

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...read-55-a.html

 

Morning guys,

And if you really want to tuck the engine low you can drill a chunk of 3/8 flat bar, bolt it up (referance jrock's photo) and use a 3 inch biscuit mount.

 

Jrock you can PM me about the motor mounts. I would be interested in them. Love the photos on your progress. Great to have friends who know how to weld. I wouldn't trust my welding yet. My welding skills are really non-existant. I did pick up cheap wire welder and am looking at a tig/stick welder also. I took the adult welding for beginners class at the local tech school last fall. We used mainly did the stick welding, but haven't picked up my welder since. There is also an advanced class where you do the wire welding more.

So here's my progress:

How the truck arrived


Taking it apart, seeing all the weird, crappy work the PO did, like usual





I have the cab off and am ready to remove the engine. Then the suspension and the send the frame off to media blasting

 

I picked up the 351 and because of all the snow I have no easy way to get it to the barn where the rest of the truck is (main part anyway, most of the pieces are in my basement) So I kicked my wife out of the garage and am disassembling it until the weather allows me to get it down to the barn



I had most of the barn to myself when we moved in, almost 3 year ago. Then my wife and daughter picked up some horses and now I have to share and can only use my loud tools when the horses are out, which is hard now with all the snow. I also don't have room for all my stuff anymore. New garage next year???

 

The big advantage of the tubular mounts is that they set the mounts at the correct spacing "automatically" and make it easier to establish them both level with the frame. Alll you need to worry about is the lateral location and fore-aft location. But if you are going with an IFS, the tube may foul it.

 

Since I plan on using the stock axle for now, and I think I'll feel better with the tubular mount, I think I will probably go with that one for now. Need to get to that part of the build up I guess. That could be months. I plan way to far ahead sometimes.

Thanks for all the information everyone!

 

I have a brand new tube mount I would love to get out of my garage if you are interested.

 

Albuq, what do you mean about the tubular motor mounts fouling up the IFS?

 

rzns60,

Yes, very interested. PM me on what you want for them.

Thanks!

 

Jrock,

I tried to reply to your PM but it said you have no more space and need to delete some of your messages before receiving any more.

 

Motor is out. Any suggestions on removing the leaf springs? A lot of this is new to me. Use to only working on my 89 mustang and simple things on my newer daily drivers.

 

Well removed the front leaf springs, messed up the pins but I would guess that's normal. Now for the rear I was only able to get the forward pin on the passenger side off. BUT it looks like it's a straight shot with a punch to get the other side out, just seems stuck pretty good. Question is on the rear pins the hole in the frame to remove does not seem like it's a straight shot through to the pin. Can you punch it out at an angle like that?