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I pulled my engine from the bone yard, since I was changing from a 390 to a 300. One of the pix is with an autolite 4100 on it. I finally had to buy a special mix adjusting tool, 90*, because the mix screws are so close to the v.cover. I got tired of burnt fingers. The r.rockers are crane gold race rockers, from a 409 v8, with 3/8" sbc studs. I wish I could leave the v.cover off!
One of the problems I had was using Isky v.springs. They are double springs and give, iirc, 134 lbs pressure, at the seat! It was so much force that it sheered off the threaded section of a couple of my screw in rocker studs. I was on the freeway when it happened, and luckily, the valve did not drop into the chamber. I should have gone to Vegas that day!
That is what I ended up with. Below is what I removed.
I love how the roller rockers look.
And here is a shot of what I took from the bone yard.
Since I changed to the 300, I've added a 3g 130 amp alternator from an 88 Taurus, a dual electric fan system from a 2000 Contour, a hydro boost brake system with all disc brakes, master cylinder from a 90's chevy truck, the booster from an astro van, and a Saginaw p/s pump. Doing the brakes and changing to the hydro boost was the best improvement since changing to the 300. The brakes are like driving a new car, finally. I don't know how many times I did the brakes with the conventional system, but they never made me feel confident. Even with the disc conversion they just weren't good enough. Now they stop on a dime!
Here is the fan system:
The fans put out 3500 cfm, iirc, and using junkyard parts, with Taurus relays, and a $20 Azone thermostatic controller, the entire system cost me about $80.
Here is a shot of the Master cylinder with the hydro.
After spending so much on the engine and tricked out c6, I just tapped into the existing exhaust I had. I made a pipe go out and around the far side of the trans in case, and then spliced the two 2.25 pipes together. It has a huge tubular type generic muffler.
I removed the r.rockers because after I sheared the top of two rocker studs, I didn't feel good about running rockers w/o guide plates.
After spending so much on the engine and tricked out c6, I just tapped into the existing exhaust I had. I made a pipe go out and around the far side of the trans in case, and then spliced the two 2.25 pipes together. It has a huge tubular type generic muffler.
I removed the r.rockers because after I sheared the top of two rocker studs, I didn't feel good about running rockers w/o guide plates.
Do you have a video of your truck running? I am not sold on which cam I want to go with yet and would love to hear the lope of the isky cam. Also how is your performance and mileage with the set-up you have?
And did you go back to factory rockers or something else?
Sorry for the interogation
Do you have a video of your truck running? I am not sold on which cam I want to go with yet and would love to hear the lope of the isky cam. Also how is your performance and mileage with the set-up you have?
And did you go back to factory rockers or something else?
Sorry for the interogation
I have the Isky 256. It does not lope. The performance from a stand still is really good. It makes me laugh every time I gun it. But I really need a kick down. I average around 14, with a mix of freeway and street. I did go back to the oem rockers. I do have the over size valves in the head too, 1.94 intakes, and 1.6 exh.
With the Isky valve springs I ended up removing the inner spring. With only the outside spring I still had 117 lbs at the seat. I did notice a difference with and without the 1.7 roller rockers. With the Edelbrock carb and the 1.7 rockers the power was outrageous! Gas mileage not so much, ha ha.
Harte3: I've often thought there a market for a clear top v.cover to allow one to see their shiny, expensive rollers clicking away!!
I never dynoed my engines. Computer projections based on e.t. and weight say the altered was putting down 488 Hp - TO THE REAR WHEELS.
So add 10 - 15% for driveline losses and...
We used to take hi-speed films of dyno engines with windows in the valve covers, side cover, crankcase, oil pans, front covers, etc.
Very interesting. Sometimes things seemed to defy the laws of gravity.
This is actually from today with its new air cleaner
1986 Ford f150, Ford 300 i6 4.9L .20 over bore, p&p head, polished crankshaft, three angle valve job, milled head (just a clean up mill), Crower 19212 cam, crower lifter spring kit, cloyes timing gears, Offy DP intake, hedman header, Holley 600 CFM carb,
i love it waiting for it to warm up here so it could be out and about!
when i was building it.
I know this is an older thread, but I happened across the bottom pic of your 300 while looking for paint ideas for my 390, and I absolutely love the blue you used! Any chance you remember exactly what paint you used?
I know this is an older thread, but I happened across the bottom pic of your 300 while looking for paint ideas for my 390, and I absolutely love the blue you used! Any chance you remember exactly what paint you used?
Thanks partner! I just used duplicolor new ford blue I think it's called something else now but it's still the same color. Wish it still looked like that haha.
Ford boy, nice clean looking set up, are you running electric fans also ..... just curious thanks. The contour fans have me thinking F250, that is a great idea ! and for the all disc brakes , Yes . TR
Ford boy, nice clean looking set up, are you running electric fans also ..... just curious thanks. The contour fans have me thinking F250, that is a great idea ! and for the all disc brakes , Yes . TR
Thanks buddy, no I'm not running electric fans just the stock fan that's running off the water pump.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.